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Need input on my 20th pants muslin
It's those diagonal lines under my rear end
Cathy Loves Fabric
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Cathy Loves Fabric  Friend of PR
Intermediate
USA
Member since 4/16/04
Posts: 1886
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Date: 9/8/06 3:44 AM

I believe I have tried every alteration mentioned on PR or in every book mentioned on PR. My pants pattern has improved immensely due to help from Sherril, Debbie Cook, most recently Marilynn and many others who have looked at my pictures in the past. This started as a Burda pattern (much more successful) and I have addressed the crotch width, length and done up to a 4" fish eye dart without successfully removing the bags under the butt. The butt and legs and 2 sizes smaller than the waist and hip. If I take in the side seams or either the front or back independently in that area, the legs lose their shape or proper drape. If I take in the side seams all the way up and down the side seams, the legs are too small and the diagonal lines are still there.

Here's the picture pants back. And here's the pant's front. This is my much altered pattern. click here

The back crotch was shortened by 1.5 inches since I took the picture of the pattern piece.

Can I ever remove the lines under the butt? I'm going for a nice trouser look. If not, are these pants wearable, as is? I have been working on a pants pattern all year and my mental health is becoming an issue over this pants issue :eek:. I just hate to give up on anything.
-- Edited on 9/8/06 4:00 AM --

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My hope is to sew to the very end. They'll find my head slumped over my precious Kenmore 19606 and have to pry the seam ripper from my cold, dead hands.

linda_maries

linda_maries
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Wisconsin USA
Member since 11/30/04
Posts: 416
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Date: 9/8/06 4:35 AM

You are progressing nicely, but you are right. You are not there yet.

When I look at your back photo, I see that the two sides of your body are different. You should be working on each side individually. The right side back has deeper "drag" lines than the left side.

I highly recommend Pants for Real People. Palmer and Alto show pictorially how to fix your problem on page 31 and 32'; also, on page 82 and 83.

On page 31, they describe the 5 step procedure to reduce the extra fabric under the butt.

mastdenman
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mastdenman  Friend of PR
Intermediate
California USA
Member since 1/12/04
Posts: 6167
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In reply to Cathy Loves Fabric


Date: 9/8/06 7:15 AM

I am probably at the same place you are at with pants fitting. I do wear the pants because they look much better than anything I can buy. I think you can wear these out of the house. If you feel insecure, go somewhere with lots of women wearing pants/trousers and compare the fit.

I've been experimenting with pinching out a tiny bit (a quarter to a half inch maximum) from the center back of the pant leg (between crotch and knee) and forming a dart aimed at the hip and not replacing it anywhere. I haven't made new pants with this alteration yet, but I am hopeful. It seems that you have to be careful with the amount or you will end up with identical drag lines in front (at least I did).

I was about to give up but then had to do the semi annual clothes shopping for work (another issue) and all of the pants purchased fit much worse than the sloper. Now I am inspired.

Maybe all you need for further inspiration is a nice little shopping trip.

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Marilyn

January 2009 to January 2010 81 yards out and 71yards in January 2010 to the present 106.7 yards out and 146.5 yards in. January 2011 to the present: 47 yards out and 69 yards in.

Lorna C. Newman
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Lorna C. Newman
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Ontario CANADA
Member since 8/10/02
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Date: 9/8/06 8:35 AM

Cathy, it seems liek you have taken a lot of fabric out of your pants. May I ask what size you started with? I suspect that maybe you have started with a size too large? There does seem to be baggin below the crotch line. Was your fisheye dart done above or below the crotch line? Do the wrinkles go away if you tug the CB seam up? That is how I managed to remove some of my wrinkles ...

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Like Miss Frizzle says "Take chances, make mistakes ..." isn't that what fitting is all about? I am happily taking chances and making mistakes as I fit muslin after muslin ...
newmansneedle.blogspot.com

MaryBeth
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MaryBeth
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In reply to Cathy Loves Fabric


Date: 9/8/06 8:40 AM

Hi Cathy: I am jumping in after all the prior versions you've done so I might be way off base.

You do have two different back leg/hip shapes! Argghh, but not insurmountable. I think the difference is made more noticeable by the tightness of the back leg. Try a bit more fullness starting right below the back crotch point at the inner seam. The pattern piece shows me a jean cut rather than a trouser cut. The inner seam is pulling inward.

The leg width you're using is too narrow for a true trouser look. Trousers fall straight down from the derriere and while there is no side shot the wrinkles suggest that there is some cupping under the butt area. They are also hugging the back calf further suggesting that the back leg is a bit tight. I would recut the back leg with more width at the upper inner thigh, straight down to the hem.

Also, I wonder if the fabric has gotten off grain a bit just by looking at the pant creases.

What kind of fabric is this pair made from? You'll get a better trouser look with a firmer weave with no stretch. I like wool very much for this. You can't beat a high quality fabric that retains it's own body.

I'm somewhat puzzled by the widened high hip side seam with a long back dart and very slanted center back seam. Realize that the slanted back seam is functioning as a dart which you can let out by cutting with less slant. My behind is quite flat, topped by a full high hip and the center back seam I use is almost completely vertical.

I hope this helps. You're so close and in fact this is a pretty good draft for a jeans cut. Please update???

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http://www.thestitchery.wordpress.com
http://www.thesewingdivas.wordpress.com

MaryBeth
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MaryBeth
USA
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Date: 9/8/06 9:15 AM

Cathy: I just found a pix inside another thread that might help you with the suggestions I've made. Message Board > Fitting Woes > Help With Understanding Pants Solution started on 9/6 by Woggy

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http://www.thestitchery.wordpress.com
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beangirl
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beangirl
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Member since 9/15/05
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Date: 9/8/06 9:20 AM

Cathy, my first thought on the drag lines is "pull up on the back". So I'm thinking that (among the other issues) you need to reduce the back crotch length some more with a fisheye dart going across the back from CB to the hip. I think from your description you've done this once already (?) but I think you need more. I'm not sure if that would fix the other issues, but it's the first thing I'd try.

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kristine

quote of the day:

"People all over the world, join in -- on the Love Train, Love Train..." ~the O'Jays

Sewliz
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Sewliz  Friend of PR
Colorado USA
Member since 6/22/04
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Date: 9/8/06 9:56 AM

Really, look at what people are actually wearing. I found the DMV to be a perfect place to pants watch since the wait time is so long and people display their rear view to you while they stand at the counter taking their turn. Sorry, yes, your behind is being viewed at the DMV, wear your best pants! Most of the DMV pants are pretty bad, cutting leg holes in a burlap bag might look better.

I haven't figured out my pants fitting either but it does seem like the crotch extension on your pattern is much longer than your body would actually need and that the side seam is very straight where, in the picture of you, the pants try to make a curve.

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Liz

thefittinglife.blogspot.com

nancy2001
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nancy2001  Friend of PR
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Alabama USA
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Date: 9/8/06 10:10 AM

I also struggled with getting a great fitting pair of pants. This summer I made at least half a dozen pairs but just couldn't get the crotch and back to fit correctly.

Two days ago I went to a one side seam pants seminar run by my local dealer. The instructor measured my waist and hips and ran off a Pattern Master Boutique pattern.

After I stitched up the sides I tried on my pants. I was thrilled -- my new pants fit me like a glove with no smile lines and no baggy butt.

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No sewing project is ever a complete success nor a total failure.

Sherril Miller
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Sherril Miller  Friend of PR
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California USA
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Date: 9/8/06 10:49 AM

Cathy, I want you to know these look very wearable. You may be trying to overfit and obsessing just a tad. You have eliminated about 98% of your fitting issues and you should be proud. Pants fitting on a plus sized body is harder than on any other shape, how well I know.

(drumroll) Now for my opinion/suggestions. You seem to have a high hip on one side, pull it down and see if some of the wrinkles go away. Your shape requires mor length at the sides of your body and you may need an uneven waist. See page 103 of FFRP where they raise the back to go over some of the hip fluff. Their example is on a skirt, but it can also apply to pants.

Another question: Does some of the wrinkles go away if you stick out your butt? If they do and you figure out how to fix that, let me know. I still can't figure out that one short of a Brazilian Butt Tuck.

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Visit my blog at http://sewingsaga.blogspot.com

If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL

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