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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > FBA (full BELLY adjustment)

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FBA (full BELLY adjustment)
Too much like Santa Claus...
squirrellypoo
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squirrellypoo
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UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 3/27/05
Posts: 1600
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Date: 9/21/06 7:40 AM

My dad is Santa Claus-shaped, which is good because I'm making him a Santa Claus costume for Christmas (McCalls 8992). But it's bad because his belly is actually largeer than the biggest size given in the pattern, so I've got to either grade up the whole thing (making it too big in the chest and shoulders), or somehow make an adjustment for his full belly. Here's a photo of my dad if it helps.

How would I go about making a full belly adjustment? Would it be like an upside-down full bust adjustment (taking the darts from the side and the bottom edge instead of the side and shoulder?). How wide should I make the darts?

I haven't got FFRP and I've already got enough sewing books so I'd rather not spend any more money for just a one-off adjustment (I can see the need for buying it if I had to do these strange adjustments all the time, but my measurments are pretty much bang-on standard). thanks.

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sailor girl
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sailor girl
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MN USA
Member since 11/17/05
Posts: 349
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 9/21/06 8:58 AM

Your dad will make an adorable Santa. My husband needs the full belly adjustment and I got great advice on this board. For DHs last shirt I did the following (in this order):
1) a maternity adjustment ( I believe that there is a tutorial on PR by Debbie Cook)
2)Added a wedge shaped peice to the front side seam starting at the top of the belly to the bottom of the shirt. For DH, I went from 0 to 5cm
3) Added length to the front tapering from 0 at the side to 6cm at the center front.
I made up the pattern in tracing paper and then subjected DH to a fitting. I wanted to be sure the the side seams hung straight and that the hem was parellel to the floor.
You've reminded me that I really need to review DHs shirt. Also, if the top is button front, be sure to put the button at the belly apex just like you would do for the fullest part of the bust. I needed to add an extra button because of the added fabric.
HTH

slanden99
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slanden99
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TX USA
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Date: 9/21/06 9:22 AM

sailor girl nailed it straight on--great advice.
For my DH (who isn't quite as Santa-Shaped) I add to the width of the front at the side seams and put a little extra length at the hem.
I wouldn't sew any darts--too feminine and would draw attention to his figure. Men usually like clothes that are loose-fitting.

squirrellypoo
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In reply to sailor girl


Date: 9/21/06 9:32 AM

Quote: sailor girl
Your dad will make an adorable Santa. My husband needs the full belly adjustment and I got great advice on this board. For DHs last shirt I did the following (in this order):

1) a maternity adjustment ( I believe that there is a tutorial on PR by Debbie Cook)

2)Added a wedge shaped peice to the front side seam starting at the top of the belly to the bottom of the shirt. For DH, I went from 0 to 5cm

3) Added length to the front tapering from 0 at the side to 6cm at the center front.

I made up the pattern in tracing paper and then subjected DH to a fitting. I wanted to be sure the the side seams hung straight and that the hem was parellel to the floor.

You've reminded me that I really need to review DHs shirt. Also, if the top is button front, be sure to put the button at the belly apex just like you would do for the fullest part of the bust. I needed to add an extra button because of the added fabric.

HTH

Ahh, thanks! I hadn't even thought of checking maternity adjustments, that's a great idea.

I'll definitely need to add length at the front - I had to foresight to ask for back length AND front length (shoulder to waistband) and he's 5 inches longer in the front so I think between that and the side wedges I should get an okay fit.

The other fun part is that he's in Pennsylvania and I'm in England so I'm going to have to sew it blind with no fittings, though luckily since it's a costume the pattern is very forgiving - velcro closures on the shirt and a drawstring waist on the trousers.

thanks again, this is really helpful!

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Irene Q
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Irene Q  Friend of PR
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NH USA
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Date: 9/21/06 10:18 AM

Your dad looks like a lot of the men in my life.

Instead of making a wedge all the way down, this is what I do. Angle the side seam out from the underarm to the point that is at the same height as the maximum belly measurement and then go straight down from there. (This keeps the bottom of the shirt from being too flared.) For your dad, I'd say that halfway between the underarm and waist would be a good point, maybe 10cm down. Men's pattern can have a lot of ease in the waist - measure the pattern and adjust so that you have 7-10cm of ease.

For my DH, getting the hem long enough in front is the biggest issue, but that's going to be tough for you. Maybe you can have your dad measure from the neck, down the center front, to his waistline. You could then compare that to the pattern measurement. If you want to guess, I add 5-7cm for my DH who is similarly shaped, and sailor girl adds 6cm, so that's probably about what DF is going to need.

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