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Burda newbie problem
Pattern measurements
Sewshot
Sewshot
Intermediate
Georgia USA
Member since 7/28/06
Posts: 18
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Date: 10/25/06 3:26 PM

I've found a problem with pattern measurements not corresponding to the Burda size/body-measurement chart in Burda 8000. Specifically, the shoulder-to-bust-point measurement and the shoulder to waist measurements (shown in the chart which is printed on one of the pattern pieces) are significantly longer than actual measurements taken with my tape on the pattern pieces. On checking the vertical bust dart, I found the top of the dart is only 10 inches from the shoulder seam on a size 10 pattern, and the chart shows shoulder-to-bust-point length of 10 1/4 inches. The bust dart point should be somewhat lower than the bust point, not higher, right? The same problem exists on the vest pattern included with the dress pattern, except in this case the bust dart is a horizontal one coming from the side seam. Shoulder-to-waist is also significantly different - 1" to 1 1/4" difference, I'd say. Has anyone ever encountered this before on a Burda pattern? It's my first Burda attempt. Any advice? Not sure I'm posting this in the right place, but I'm new at posting, and would soooooo appreciate help.

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Joan

ccris
ccris
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In reply to Sewshot


Date: 10/25/06 3:59 PM

I'm sure someone else will chime in here as I'm no expert. From what point on the shoulder are you measuring? I believe the area you need to be measuring from is the neck/shoulder area, not outside, or center shoulder. Check and see if that makes a difference.

Sewshot
Sewshot
Intermediate
Georgia USA
Member since 7/28/06
Posts: 18
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In reply to ccris


Date: 10/25/06 4:45 PM

Thanks, but yes, that's exactly where I'm measuring from. What else could I be missing?

I'm actually wondering if somehow a petite pattern, or "K" size in Burda terms, got put into the wrong envelope....but then the size/measurement chart printed on the pattern would correspond to petite sizing, wouldn't it? It's that chart that doesn't match actual pattern piece measurements.

I'd just try to return the pattern, but the nearest store is a 30-minute drive, and anyway I ordered the pattern online. It's one of Burda's new fall patterns.

------
Joan

redsquid
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redsquid  Friend of PR
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California USA
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Date: 10/25/06 5:11 PM

Which pattern is it - maybe it has a slight forward shoulder seam adjustment? This might be something that might not be obvious while looking at the sketches.

And we all end up moving bust darts on one pattern or another - the nature of the bust point beast.

~Linda (redsquid)

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redsquid (Linda)

ccris
ccris
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Date: 10/25/06 5:23 PM

The question of the forward shoulder seam is a good thought. Also, I'm wondering if that extra 1/4" could be ease, although I've always thought if the envelope said 10" from shoulder to bust, then it's supposed to be 10" and not plus another quarter inch for ease. I know they build in vertical ease, but I don't know how they do it. Been trying to figure that one out for years. hmmm

If the pattern *is* correct, then each one purchased is going to measure the same....................ditto, if there's a misprint, too. Does Burda have a customer service phone line?

Sewshot
Sewshot
Intermediate
Georgia USA
Member since 7/28/06
Posts: 18
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In reply to redsquid


Date: 10/25/06 5:46 PM

It's Burda 8000. Neither the picture nor the drawing of the dress pattern show a forward shoulder. Same with the vest.

I could just shorten the dart on the dress, and lower the dart on the vest, but since the shoulder-to-waist measurement is also shorter than the chart says, I don't know where to lengthen the pattern - above the bust, or below. I really feel there's a problem with the pattern and though I might be able to alter, I think I need to know where the problem is.

------
Joan

Sewshot
Sewshot
Intermediate
Georgia USA
Member since 7/28/06
Posts: 18
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In reply to ccris


Date: 10/25/06 5:59 PM

Actually, the amount of difference is more than 1/4 inch. Remember that I measured from the shoulder seam to the top of the vertical bust dart, not to the "bust point", which is not marked on the pattern but is rather listed as 10 1/4" in the size/measurement chart. So the bust dart should stop below the bust point, not above it. The measurement from shoulder seam to top of the bust dart should be more like 10 3/4" to 11 1/4". Isn't the bust dart supposed to end 1/2 inch to 1 inch below the bust point?

Good question about the customer-service phone line. Can't find one on the pattern, but will check out the Burda Mode web site.

------
Joan

Debbie Cook
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Debbie Cook
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Date: 10/26/06 0:47 AM

The chart is not for pattern measurements, it's for body measurements so you can pick your pattern size. IOW, if *you* measure X from here to here, and Y from there to there, etc., you should choose Size Z.

Pattern pieces may or may not match those measurements depending on the style lines and ease amounts the designer has designed for the pattern.

I see that Burda 8000 has a neckband, so measuring from the end of the shoulder seam is not including the extra the neckband will add. It also will not include the extra space between the neck and the finished edge of the neckband/neckline.

What you should do is to pin the pattern pieces together and try them on. Does it fit you?

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--
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com

Sew4Fun
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Date: 10/26/06 1:11 AM

To add to what Debbie said, which I agree with, Mueller (the pattern drafting system than Burda use) drafts with a 1cm forward shoulder seam on all patterns, to account for today's more forward posture.

ETA: Burda also drafts in metric, but you are measuring in imperial. There can be small discrepancies. I've found the opposite to be true when measuring American patterns in metric. So if you would like to compare apples with apples you should measure in metric and compare against the metric m'ment chart.

All these things when added together may account for your difference.
-- Edited on 10/26/06 1:45 AM --

------
Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/

Sewshot
Sewshot
Intermediate
Georgia USA
Member since 7/28/06
Posts: 18
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In reply to Debbie Cook


Date: 10/26/06 11:40 AM

Thank you, Debbie. I didn't think about factoring in the band collar. I'm sewing for my daughter who lives across country, and though I'm sewing a muslin, I'd like to mail as few times as possible...I'm probably crazy for trying this but I'm going to anyway. I knew that the measurement of the pattern piece would not be exactly the same as the sizing measurement, but when the dart appeared to come to a point above the suggested bust point, I was concerned. The contact at Burda Mode is trying to get an answer for me, but I'll bet it's as you've suggested...the collar is the thing. I appreciate that you looked at the pattern to check it out for me. I'm feeling rather stupid about this.

------
Joan

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