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Message Board > Patterns and Notions > Help! bwof 9/2006 Notched collar instruction on #126 Coat ( Moderated by Sharon1952)

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Help! bwof 9/2006 Notched collar instruction on #126 Coat
Stumped by instructions. Anyone with Burda experience?
mrspenguin
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mrspenguin
Intermediate
CA
Member since 12/29/05
Posts: 34
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Date: 11/10/06 1:12 PM

Anyone willing to sort of re-explain some instructions to me? This is my first Burda WOF project and as promised by many, the instruction leaves me wondering.

P. 54 - Notched collar... "Build in extra fullness into corners of lapel" - ?
Then, from there, I'm sort of lost as to how the pieces even go together.

At least I had the sense to try this all on my muslin first...

Sewliz
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Sewliz  Friend of PR
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Posts: 4315
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In reply to mrspenguin


Date: 11/10/06 1:50 PM

It is very possible that the BWOF instructions are wrong or incomplete at the point where you are getting lost so don't drive yourself crazy trying to figure them out. I came across a pair of pants, #113 in the same issue, that are like a nightmare word problem and one with no solution! I couldn't find any reference to sewing on the right side of the zipper, something one might want to do in order to wear the pants. I do like the BWOF pattern drafts but have given up on the instructions.

I'm sorry I'm no more help than that, but I suggest finding a book that includes coat/jacket making or instead using the instructions from an envelope pattern if any of those have good instructions. Maybe someone can suggest such a pattern, then for 99 cents on sale you can save your sanity.

------
Liz

thefittinglife.blogspot.com

Elaray
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Elaray
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PA USA
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In reply to mrspenguin


Date: 11/10/06 2:00 PM

I had a similar problem with a BWOF notched collar. I gave up! But before I did, someone recommended the "Tailoring" volume from the Singer Sewing Reference Library series. Only, it's not called the Singer Sewing Reference Library anymore. It may be published by Cy Decosse or Creative Publishing International.

(I'm just not any help at all, am I?)

------
I sew, therefore I am.

Visit my blog at http://anothercreation.blogspot.com

Nata
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Nata
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In reply to mrspenguin


Date: 11/10/06 3:27 PM

By "building extra fullness" they mean that you need to ease facing piece and top collar peice slightly when stitching it to the underpieces. It is needed because the coat fabric is fairly thick and you need to allow for the turn of cloth on the collar and lapels. You can disregard this if you are using regular thickness fabric. Don't hesitate to ask for more detailed explanation if you are not sure what I am talking about.

Next you stitch facing to the front along the center edges, around the lapel corner and stop at the little mark. The stop point is the inside corner of lapel notch. Don't turn the lapels out yet. It looks like you need to slash the darts open for about 4in trough the center of each dart. Next attach collarbands to collars, press SA open and topstitch. Then attach top collar to bottom collar, easing top piece for the turn of cloth. You need to stop at a point marked with #5 on your collar pieces. Turn collar and sandwich it between coat and facing pieces. Stitch undercollar piece to the front piece starting at #5 point and ending at the dart (that's why you needed to slash them open I believe). Then, starting at the center back stitch undercollar to the neck edge. When you come to the dart, pivot and stitch the dart (don't hold me up on this one, it's hard to envision w/o having actual pieces here). Press SA open, press darts open instead of to one side. Attach top collar to the facing from point #5 to that tiny turn section, clip SA, finish that tiny straight section of the collar. Press SA open, turn lapels right side out. Then pin or baste exactly through the seams attaching collar to collar bands. This is done to lay top collar seam presizely on the undercollar seam, then hand stitch SA together, so your collars stay that way and not shift later. You'll need to flap the facing out of your way a little to get to those SA. When finished, flap the facing back where it was, press and you are good to go.

Not sure my description is much better than BurdaIt's the best I can do. Don't hesitate to ask more questions.

------
Fabric bought in 2009: 30 yds
Fabrc sewn in 2009: 19 yds
Fabric stash: 145 yds

3 Garments IN and 6 Garments OUT

mrspenguin
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mrspenguin
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In reply to Nata


Date: 11/11/06 11:56 AM

I will print this out and try it. By ignoring the instructions and fiddling with the muslin, I think I got about half-way. I also just purchased a Simplicity pattern at Joann's for $1 less 10% yesterday--they approach it completely different but I thought I could revert to their instructions if all else fails.

Thanks so much for the detialed (English) instruction! I will let you know how it works.

Evatgirl73
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Evatgirl73
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WA USA
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Date: 11/11/06 1:12 PM

I made this a few days ago. I'm not by any means an expert on notched collars, so I was reading those instructions very carefully especially since the very helpful review of this pattern (the reviewers name escapes me, I'm sorry!!)said that it really *needs* to be done the way Burda has it. When you sew the "big seam" starting at center back, you won't even need to pivot much to stitch up the darts, it'll just be one swoop so to speak. There are a few points where I fudged it a little, and it's not noticeable at all. I just couldn't completely grasp their instructions, so I tinkered with it and got it to work. I can't recall anything in the instructions that was completely OFF or incorrect at all, just a few places where just reading the instructions made no sense at all but after messing with it I could *almost* understand what they were trying to say, LOL! Good luck, and since this is a muslin it's the time and place to make those mistakes and learn!

------
EvaSAHM to 2 beautiful girls, born Sept'01 and June'04!

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