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Adding a bust dart
pfk206
pfk206
Beginner
International CANADA
Member since 3/9/03
Posts: 32
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Date: 9/23/03 9:30 PM

Hi Georgene,

I have a blouse pattern that fits me pretty well, but I think the fit would be perfect with the addition of a bust dart.  Can you tell me how to go about adding one, please?

Thanks,

Pearl :-)

Georgene
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Georgene
Expert/Couture
California USA
Member since 10/5/02
Posts: 2292
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Date: 9/23/03 9:48 PM

Depends on whether you want it to come from the side seam, the armhole, or if you want to have a dart on the body of the garment?  Do you have a pattern reference we could look at to get an idea?
Sorry for all the questions, but it will be much easier if every one is on the same page!
If you have already made a piece, perhaps you have a photo of yourself in the garment? Or just look at yourself in the mirror and analyse where the dart *wants* to be.
Let me know and will put on the thinking cap...

pfk206
pfk206
Beginner
International CANADA
Member since 3/9/03
Posts: 32
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Date: 9/24/03 3:01 PM

Hi Georgene,

Your questions make perfect sense - I should have given you more info to work with!  

The pattern is Stretch & Sew #369, the Camp Shirt.  It is OOP, I think.  "This dropped-shouldered shirt features long or short sleeves and a notched lapel with square or round collar.  Long sleeves end in buttoned cuffs which may be round or square; short sleeves are hemmed.  Two bodice pockets, a shirttail hem and edgestiching accents complete this classic look"

The blouse fits well enough; however, it does ride up at the front,  as all dartless tops do on me.  I am a D cup.  I would like to put the dart in from the side seam.  

Let me know if you need further information, Georgene!

Thanks,

Pearl

Georgene
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Georgene
Expert/Couture
California USA
Member since 10/5/02
Posts: 2292
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Date: 9/24/03 3:36 PM

Thanks Pearl for the additional info.  First let me say that a trick used often in RTW patterns is to add length to the front body from nothing at the sides to about 3/4 to 1" at the front, with most of the curve towards the side and the CF hem line flat.  Sometimes this is enough to correct that annoying hiking up you see.

For adding a bust dart where there is none, you have to look and see just where you would like it to fall on your body, so put that blouse on and have a look in the mirror.

I imagine that about 3" down from the armhole would be about right.  Put a pin in where you want the dart to start at the side seam.

Then figure out how long you want the dart to be.  For most modern looks, the dart is as minimal as possible, so you'd probably want it 3-4" long and sitting behind the bust point, not pointing right at it.  So put a pin at that point and cross it with another pin to place the point exactly.  Its OK if you want it to angle up slightly.

Once you've got that bit figured out, trace off your shirt front so you can manipulate the pattern.

Mark the distance down from the armhole and the finish point on your pattern tracing and draw a straight line with your ruler, then draw a line perpendicular from the bust point down to the hem.

Slice the lines to the point, but leave a little tiny bit so it doesn't separate from the pattern entirely.

Drop the lower part of the chunk down so that it pivots inwards at the hem towards the center front.

Now you have a bust dart.  Probably you don't want it to be more than 3/4" deep at the side seam, so only drop open double the amount you want it to finish on the fold.

However, you are not making a new fit at the sideseam, so you will not trace that line going inwards below the dart.  Keep your side seam the way it was, only now it has a dart inserted.

See where the lowest point of the hem was when you dropped open the dart?  That will be your new front length.  Draw your hemline (90 degrees) from the center front at this new depth.

Clear as mud?  Let me know if this does the trick.  You will want to do a rough sample before making a final piece in your fashion fabric.  Then you can see if you like the dart or if you may want to move it.  That's another adjustment, not so hard to do if you need to.

J-ann
J-ann
Intermediate
Arkansas USA
Member since 11/19/04
Posts: 34
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In reply to Georgene


Date: 9/11/06 2:12 PM

Is there an online site where I can "see" this?

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