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Boxer shorts crotch seam how would you finish it?
LornaJay Advanced Beginner UNITED KINGDOM Member since 9/30/06 Posts: 554	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 1/23/07 4:03 PM My young brother has been shouting for boxers (very politely) for ages. I've cut out a test pair, and want to get all the finishing finicky stuff right on this one so that the 'real' pairs look good. So, the pattern instructions are to double-stitch the crotch seam, trim the curved section to 6mm, and press the rest open. I don't like the look of that at all, and am wondering about flat-felling. I can see how to do it on the straight part (back crotch) but not on the curved seam from the bottom of the fly to, well, the bottom of the bottom! I know lots of people have made boxers, and I've checked a lot of reviews, but without a serger I think I need some specific advice. Many thanks.
Rhonda in Montreal   Advanced Beginner QC CANADA Member since 12/9/04 Posts: 2008	Login to reply to this post In reply to LornaJay Like this post Date: 1/23/07 8:52 PM Hi Dr LJN, The above-method is how I sew DH's boxer shorts. The double-stitching reinforces the area & the trimming to 6mm makes for more comfort... Guess I don't worry about the "look"; I serge the other areas. Rhonda ------ You are most welcome to visit us at: www.rhotos-rag.blogspot.com/
CM_Sews Intermediate CA USA Member since 9/18/04 Posts: 1485	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 1/23/07 10:09 PM I seemed to have developed a boxer short obesession lately. I've been making a lot of these and I've been using this method of making flat felled seams: Flat Felled seams I've been using this on the seam from the bottom of the fly to the "bottom" as you put it. Then I do the same seam on the back seam, down to the bottom. Then I sew the front to the back (up one leg, then down the other) and flat fell that seam, too. Because I've worked the first two seams in the same direction (as you look at the seam allowances), they are offset in this bottom seam, so I'm not sewing a flat felled seam structures on top of each other. I do not clip the curves. It's a bit "fiddle-y" sewing the top stitching, but the seam itself is narrow and lays flat under the presser foot. At the curved parts of the seam, the fabric on either side of the seam does not lay flat, but the seam itself is completely flat. I pin across the folded seam allowance, not parallel as shown in the instructions, then pull the pins out as I come to them. The result is no "flapping" seam allowances on the inside of the boxers. Flat felled seams are very stable and strong, so no other reinforcement is needed. I'm using Simplicity 9958, and I ignore the instructions, except for how to make the fly front. I'm able to work on everything flat. I press the waist band folds and the bottom hems before I do anything else; both pieces are flat. Then I sew the fly front, and flat fell the rest of that seam. Sew and flat fell the back seam, then sew and FF the "bottom" seam. Repair your pressing at the seams, sew the hems, sew the waistband, leaving an opening for the elastic. Insert elastic, then sew the opening closed. CMC -- Edited on 1/23/07 10:41 PM --
Member since 12/31/69	Login to reply to this post In reply to LornaJay Like this post Date: 1/23/07 10:09 PM You really only need to double stitch to reinforce the curved, lower portion of the crotch. This is the only part that you need to trim close as well. Why not just use your pinking shears to trim and finish the seam? This won't add any bulk or create a lump in the crotch area. It certainly would be functional, easy and comfortable.
LornaJay Advanced Beginner UNITED KINGDOM Member since 9/30/06 Posts: 554	Login to reply to this post In reply to CM_Sews Like this post Date: 1/24/07 2:13 AM CM_Sews: thank you very much. That is exactly the information I needed. I want these boxers to be worn, not left in the bottom of a drawer as uncomfortable. I'm going to print all that out and put it with the pattern instructions for attempt II. I think I need to sketch out diagrams to go with them, though, to make sure I get the order correct!
LornaJay Advanced Beginner UNITED KINGDOM Member since 9/30/06 Posts: 554	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 1/24/07 2:15 AM Quote: got2bjennyg Why not just use your pinking shears to trim and finish the seam? This won't add any bulk or create a lump in the crotch area. It certainly would be functional, easy and comfortable. I think I'll do that on this first pair, as I've already sewn everything together and felling the back seam is going to be very fiddly indeed. I need to make another pair in a size bigger so he can try both (he's 8000 miles away) and let me know what fit he likes. Thanks.
christine A Intermediate FL USA Member since 10/8/04 Posts: 184	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 1/24/07 5:12 PM I am sewing the simplicity 9958 also for my crew and I am doing a mock flat fell- Like the previous post, I am doing the fly in the flat, pressing up hems and waist. But first I am serging waist edges, fly edges down to bottom of fly on both pattern pieces and hems . Then I carefully serge together legs, place one leg inside the other and serge back seam up to fly and taper off. Then I press to one side all seams and stitch seams down. Wala! No flappy seams, all seams secure, all edges neat. Then as others stated, hem, sew casing, insert elastic etc. I found the size small mens doesn't need a button or snap at the fly, but any larger gaps open so does.
LornaJay Advanced Beginner UNITED KINGDOM Member since 9/30/06 Posts: 554	Login to reply to this post In reply to christine A Like this post Date: 1/25/07 2:43 PM That does sound nice and easy. Sadly, no serger and no prospect of one. My machine is unwell - skipping stitches if I sew at any sort of speed - but I need to save up the pennies so I can get it serviced. Meanwhile, I sew slowly.

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