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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Wrinkles on back of jacket ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Wrinkles on back of jacket
cakehole
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cakehole
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Date: 3/10/07 10:35 AM

I made a wearable muslin of Simplicity 4698 and thought I was happy with the fit, then I took pictures of the back to post a review and didn't like what I saw so much...

I HATE fitting myself, it drives me NUTS! Anyway, I have all these wrinkles on the back and don't know how to fix them... I'm assuming that the ones at the waist are because the hips are too tight? But how do I release those without affecting the fit from the side, which I actually think is okay. And as for the wrinkles at the armhole... no idea what to do about those. I'm not using a shoulder pad and I think the shoulders are maybe a bit too wide - the seam is off my "true" shoulder by about an inch - would that make a difference?

Any and all advice very gratefully received!

BeeJ
BeeJ  Friend of PR
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In reply to cakehole


Date: 3/10/07 11:36 AM

My fitting experience is limited as I'm just starting to find out what causes wrinkles in my own items that I sew. I too have these same wrinkles in the back of a jacket that I made not long ago so I will be very anxious to read what others have to say. One discovery I made was finding out the back length from neck to waist was not long enough for me. Also my shoulders are narrow and I had to scoop out a fair amount from the shoulder to mid arm hole as the shoulder seam was onto my arm. I think it is possible that the armhole wrinkles may be caused by the seam falling onto the arm but I'm not certain. It's difficult to see your wrinkles as the fabric is so dark. Sorry I can't be of more help but I sure do understand your frustration as I'm still struggling to get a good fit also.

Debbie Cook
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In reply to cakehole


Date: 3/10/07 11:39 AM

Quote:
And as for the wrinkles at the armhole... no idea what to do about those. I'm not using a shoulder pad


Try putting shoulders pads in (temporarily) and see how it looks. To me, it looks like the shoulder slope is off.

------
--
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com

CarolynGM
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In reply to cakehole


Date: 3/10/07 11:48 AM

Hi cakehole -- I just posted a comment on your review suggesting bigger shoulder pads, but now I see you didn't use them at all. You have wrinkles on the sides of the jacket that I often see on my jackets before I add the shoulder pads.

I see that Debbie had the same thought, so hopefully you can just try the jacket on with shoulder pads to see they help.

------
Carolyn

Elona
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In reply to cakehole


Date: 3/10/07 12:36 PM

As everyone else has said, the shoulders look as though they need a "sloped shoulder" adjustment. The usual method is to lower the shoulder by, oh, 3/8" to start with, and the bottom of the armhole the same amount (so that the sleeve will fit into the opening). Or you can use shoulder pads. If they help, it confirms the sloped shoulder diagnosis.

As to the waist wrinkles, your side view strongly indicates the need for a "swayback" adjustment. To get that, you just take a wedge out of the center back seam, tapering to nothing at the side seam.

I think both these adjustments are addressed in a special section of the board, but I never can find it. Perhaps just googling each term will bring them up.

Debbie Cook
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In reply to Elona


Date: 3/10/07 12:44 PM

Quote: Elona
As to the waist wrinkles, your side view strongly indicates the need for a "swayback" adjustment.

I agree. But I also think some of those wrinkles are because the shoulder-to-waist is too long without the shoulder pads.

------
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"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com

Sewliz
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In reply to cakehole


Date: 3/10/07 1:34 PM

You definintely need to put some shoulder pads in before you analyze the fit. First of all, the shoulder area of the pattern is drafted to have extra room for the pads, and second, the jacket pattern is designed to hang from the structure the pads provide. Jackets that are not meant to have shoulder pads are cut differently. So put some pads in and then take a look. That may help the upper wrinkles quite a bit.

I think the lower wrinkles, and maybe some of the upper wrinkles are due to your curvy bum. The basic pattern size is based on a rather flatish more boring rear end. The fix would not be to increase the side seams but to angle out a little more in the back princess seams and/or the center back seam. Having the jacket ride up in the back instead of skimming over the rear and hips creates all sorts of frustrating wrinkles both high and low.

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Liz

thefittinglife.blogspot.com

cakehole
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cakehole
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Date: 3/10/07 3:26 PM

Thank you all so much for your help. I will try it with shoulder pads – I was hoping not to use them because I don’t like the way jackets look when they have shoulder pads and you wear them unbuttoned, plus my shoulders are quite square anyway so sometimes pads can look a bit linebacker-chic… but I will look into redrafting patterns for use without shoulder pads at a later date.

That’s really interesting about the swayback, too – I noticed that the Every Sewer’s Guide to the Perfect Fit book, which I have to admit I don’t usually find terribly helpful, had a jacket with similar wrinkles at the back of the armscye and the solution was the same, so I will try that too.

And I will try letting the princess seams out below the waist at the back a little (thank you, Sewliz, for disparaging the pattern style as designed for “boring” bums!) – I’m having such problems with fitting this area at the moment, I have another jacket that I drafted from scratch which is clearly too big overall in the hip area as I’ve got masses of excess over the hips at the side and front princess seams, but still it seems to be doing this rucking up thing at the back. Obviously it is the curve of my derrière that is to blame!

Karla Kizer
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Date: 3/10/07 5:41 PM

One way to try the swayback adjustment on your jacket is to pin in a dart that runs from sideseam to sideseam across the back. Start just above your waist and pinch a fold out of the fabric - nothing at the sideseam and increasing to (for the sake of argument) a 1/2" fold at the center back, then taper back to nothing at the other sideseam. That 1/2" fold would have the effect of removing 1" of fabric length at the CB; the dart- shaped fold would also change the angle at which the lower back of your jacket hangs when compared to the upper back. If your wrinkles disappear, or are reduced, then there's your hint. You'll know what to do to the pattern next time.

I would enjoy this jacket exactly as it is, though. You did a beautiful job and it passes the test I always use: if you found it in RTW, would you buy it?

------
“Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and it annoys the pig.” -Robert Heinlein and Ann's father. Thanks for the reminder, Ann.

Where are we going, and what am I doing in this handbasket?

Matthew 25:40 (New International Version)
The King will reply, 'I tell you the truth, whatever you did for one of the least of these brothers of mine, you did for me.'



Kay Y
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Date: 3/10/07 6:26 PM

If you don't like actual shoulder pads, try cutting a layer of needlepunch fleece, using the front and back pattern pieces but overlapping them so there is no shoulder seam. Follow the armscye seam line and curve the fleece roughly similar to a shoulder pad. Keep it fairly generous in size, covering the whole shoulder area especially in front where it can prevent the jacket from slumping in the hollow between shoulder and bust (not that yours seems to be doing that). You can hand stitch the fleece piece to your seam allowances at armscye and neck edge to keep it in place.

I have been very happy recently with one layer of this kind of fairly firm fleece in the shoulder of jackets where there really wasn't room for a shoulder pad. It provides the structure for the shoulder similar to a pad's function, but is thinner and doesn't really change the overall shape.

The other thing I would always suggest is a sleeve head to pad out the top of the sleeve cap. Again, this helps provide the structure for your sleeves, but need not add any bulk.

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