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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Sway back adjustment on shorts/pants

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Sway back adjustment on shorts/pants
Been a problem all my life
Heidi H
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Heidi H
Arizona USA
Member since 11/25/06
Posts: 80
Skill: Advanced Beginner
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Date: 3/18/07 4:16 PM

I've read on here that a lot of people make this adjustment on blouses but I can't find anything on pants.

I'm making these shorts and like any pants/shorts that I wear there is a large gap at the back. These shorts have two darts in the back. Would I make a third dart using the back seam line or just alter the back seam.

I have made a muslin of the shorts because I had to shorten the waist to crotch length by 3" and I'll be shortening them about 2.5 - 3" in length.

Heidi

squilts
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squilts
Iowa USA
Member since 1/24/06
Posts: 41
Skill: Advanced Beginner
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In reply to Heidi H <<


Date: 3/21/07 11:12 AM

I am no pants expert, but I have had good luck fitting my swayback with this Simplicity 4135 pattern. The crotch seam is sewn last, so it is easy to pin fit and adjust the back center seam. Depending on the sequence of your pattern you could change it to do the same thing. You do end up with a seam through the back of your waistband though.

Nata
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Nata
USA
Member since 8/20/02
Posts: 1253
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 3/21/07 12:59 PM

I do sway back + narrow waist alterations on my pants, too. I usually take a lazy approach. I pinch out the excess width of the back waist and measure how deep the fold is. Let's say it's 1/2", meaning I need to take off 1" from back waist. I then divide the 1" by 6. Next draw new side seam narrowing by 1/6" at the waist, same for crotch seam, and make the dart 1/6" wider.

Not a scientific approach, but it works. I figure, that if I spread the alteration between as many seams as possible, I only need to make small adjustment to each seam, resulting in minimal distortion of the original pattern.

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Fabric bought in 2009: 30 yds
Fabrc sewn in 2009: 19 yds
Fabric stash: 145 yds

3 Garments IN and 6 Garments OUT

France

France
Quebec CANADA
Member since 9/25/05
Posts: 137
Skill: Intermediate
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In reply to Nata <<


Date: 3/23/07 0:08 AM

Quote: Nata
Not a scientific approach, but it works. I figure, that if I spread the alteration between as many seams as possible, I only need to make small adjustment to each seam, resulting in minimal distortion of the original pattern.

I agree,
I have a sway back too, and I have tried a few techniques that are shown in books without much result.
Here is how I proceed.
I am a size 12 in patterns, so I thought, but the seat was always pulling, then I had to compensate also for my slightly wide thighs.
Instead of taking a size 12 and making a lot of adding here and adding there, one day I cut a size 14.
Of course the waiste and the hips are too big, but the crotch fits me.
I start sewing the inside leg seams, since I don't want to alter that line as it could distort the pants.
Then I sew the center seam with the zipper or not if I decide I want a side zipper.
You'll notice I have not done the darts just yet
I try the pants on using safety pins on the darts and pin the pants at the widest point of my hips then I make an even seam along the sides following that mark . I do not try to go narrower at the waist as I too find it distorts the pants.
I then distribute the extra fabric in the back between the double darts (this is a must for protruding seats, no matter what the patterns says) and the center seam if necessary.
I know this is not a scientific approach either but it works well for me. It is not any worse than if I do others modifications, plus I spend less time and keep my sanity.
It's not perfect yet as I still get some diagonals in the back but it's very acceptable and the rest of the pants looks good.
I find that lining pants on a sway back seat is much more graceful on a bum that is quite visible.

I hope this helps someone!!
Rhonda in Montreal
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Rhonda in Montreal  Friend of PR
Quebec Canada
Member since 12/9/04
Posts: 2015
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In reply to France <<


Date: 3/23/07 4:16 PM

Thanks, France, from another "sway-back seat with a bum that is quite visible"!!
Rhonda

JuliaS
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JuliaS
Utah USA
Member since 3/29/04
Posts: 154
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 3/24/07 7:55 AM

I too have a swayback and have been working on pants fitting. I would pin out the excess, experimenting where you think it looks best. I have not had success taking out excess at the side seams; instead, I take it out by deepening the back darts and taking in at the CB seam. (To be quite honest, sometimes I rely almost entirely on the CB seam. It does make that CB seam on the bias, i.e. diagonal, but it seems to fit more nicely over my bum that way.)

susinok

susinok
Member since 5/10/06
Posts: 99
Skill: Advanced Beginner
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In reply to JuliaS <<


Date: 4/2/07 9:55 PM

I have to pinch out a wedge of fabric from the center back seam. I don't worry about bias, since that seam is sewn twice and then reinforced with overcast stitches.

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Susan
Norman, OK
http://www.susinok.com

a7yrstitch
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a7yrstitch  Friend of PR
Texas USA
Member since 4/1/08
Posts: 6847
Skill: Intermediate
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In reply to Heidi H <<


Date: 4/1/12 7:32 PM

Bumping and adding future search term.

swaybackthread

------
I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

E.A.Y.
E.A.Y.
Member since 1/25/12
Posts: 16
Skill: Advanced
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Date: 4/25/12 2:27 AM

I'm a back seam pincher also. Honestly that is where all the excess is on me. I used to try all kinds of darts but now I just pinch.

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Cotton: 37 yards
Linen: 6 yards
Silk: 16 yards
Wool: 15 yards
Lining: 14 yards

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