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Forum > Sewing Techniques and Tips > serger seam allowance help! ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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serger seam allowance help!
measuring seam allowances
kkbc
kkbc
Member since 10/23/06
Posts: 2
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Date: 3/20/07 6:05 AM

Hi - I am trying to make a polar fleece dressing gown for my daughter - made one for my son w/ my sewing machine, but now I have added a serger to my collection! I want to serge it - but it says 5/8 seam allowance. Does this mean I move the fabric over to the edge 5/8 marker - because then it is cut, and the sewed seam is now taking up more fabric space past the 5/8 mark! If I sewed with my machine, it would be a straight line on the 5/8 mark. How do I know what mark serge seams at? This is a real beginner question I know, I have just moved and can't ask my sewing savvy neighbor unfortunately! I hope this made sense - I really need some help! Is there a hard and fast rule to follow?
thanks very much!

Yvonski
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Yvonski  Friend of PR
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NEW ZEALAND
Member since 7/8/06
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In reply to kkbc


Date: 3/20/07 6:13 AM

Hi, I made a polar fleece dressing gown and I would strongly recommend sewing only. Have made lots of polar fleece clothing for children and as it does not fray there is no need to overlock. I sometimes top stitch to get the seams sitting flat.

------
Life is too short to stuff mushrooms



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Date: 3/20/07 7:37 AM

If your serger has seam allowance markings on the right side of the needle, you will nee to know if those marks are in relationship to the left needle or right needle. to determine this, simply hold up a measuring tape or small ruler (or seam gauge) and measure the distance from the needle over to the mark.

If you are using both needles use the marks that are for the left needle.

Personally, I like sewing knits with the serger, even if they don't fray. The serger stitches have a terrific amount of stretch and give, and I can easily keep unruly knits from over stretching by adjusting the diff. feed.

I have sewn fleece with the sewing machine and the serger, and both work quite well. But more often than not, I find myself using the serger when sewing with fleece. But, I don't reserve or limit the use of my serger to fabrics that fray or unravel.

Sherril Miller
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Sherril Miller  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/20/07 7:45 AM

Don't forget to decrease the foot pressure when sewing with fluffy fabrics like fleece. Like Jenny said, the diff. feed may also need to be adjusted. To learn where to sew with wide seam allowances, I drew on the fabric my 5/8 inch seam allowance and made sure that the left needle stitched on the line. You will only have to draw the line for a few inches to give you an eye to where you need to put the fabric edge for a perfect 5/8 seam allowance. It may help to mark on your machine where the fabric edge should ride while sewing until you get used to sewing with a wide seam allowance on the serger.

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Visit my blog at http://sewingsaga.blogspot.com

If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL

MarthaMcKeon
MarthaMcKeon
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Member since 5/26/05
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Date: 3/20/07 8:24 AM

you need to determine the distance between the needle on the furthest LEFT position in relation where the blade is cutting off excess fabric. For instance, I usually cut off 1/4", aiming for the blade, because my stitch width from that above measurement is 3/8" - this is for a regular 5/8" seam allowance.

You use the blade as your reference point.

It is worth the time to fiddle with a small ruler, and your particular machine, to determine how to manage these seams. Serging is different than regular sewing. You will get much better results from your serger and it will look more professional. I have done it both ways, and the serger is easier once you get the hang of it.

CJ Tinkle
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CJ Tinkle
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Date: 3/20/07 8:24 AM

I bought a seam guide for my serger, it really made a big difference for me.

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Bernina Artista 630 ✂ Bernina Aurora 430 ✂ Bernina 830e Record ✂ Bernina 1300MDC ✂ Babylock BLCS ✂ APQS Millennium ✂ Singer 201-2 ✂ Singer 301 ✂ Singer 401A ✂ Singer 15-91 ✂ Singer Featherweight 222K ✂ Singer Featherweight 221

mastdenman
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mastdenman  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/20/07 9:10 AM

I used a seam guide for a long time after I got my serger too. I start my seam allowance at the needle that is furtherest left. Typically about 1/4 inch will get cut off and the serged seam will take up about 3/8 of an inch.

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Marilyn

January 2009 to January 2010 81 yards out and 71yards in January 2010 to the present 106.7 yards out and 146.5 yards in. January 2011 to the present: 47 yards out and 69 yards in.

kkbc
kkbc
Member since 10/23/06
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Date: 3/20/07 3:41 PM

Good morning! (I'm in New Zealand) Thank you for the help - I can get back to sewing again! This is a really awesome site,
cheers! :)

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