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Message Board > Fitting Woes > bulging bodice back on dress ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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bulging bodice back on dress
how do I fix this
trinicity
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trinicity  Friend of PR
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PA USA
Member since 10/26/06
Posts: 241
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Date: 3/29/07 5:20 AM

Hey everyone
I am having a problem with the back of this dress where the zip is, the front fits good, the waist is where I want it when the dress is zipped up, but the bodice back has a big bulge as you can see below

how do I take of this without altering the fit of the waist,, I have that small waist HUGE hips syndrome

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LornaJay
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LornaJay
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Date: 3/29/07 8:08 AM

I was given some very good advice about solving a less-dramatic version of this problem on the boards recently. It's an 'erect back' and you take out a horizontal dart from CB to side seam wherever you need it. You end up with a curved CB seam (very similar to a swayback alteration) just higher up.

I suspect you might need a swayback alteration and an erect back alteration as well.

Sorry - no time to search for the posting, but it was within the past fortnight.

Good luck!

CarolynGM
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CarolynGM  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/29/07 8:16 AM

Wow, Trinicity, I think you have a ton of extra length in the back based on this picture. I can't really tell about width since it's a side view. You'll probably need to remove length in more than one place.

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Carolyn

Debbie Cook
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Debbie Cook
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Date: 3/29/07 9:30 AM

I think it's extra length between shoulder waist too. You probably also have it in the front, but your bust is taking up the extra length and fooling you.

A tuck in the back (diagonally, as Dr. LJN described) is what I'd suggest, except that it really looks like you have more extra length to remove than from just a simple tuck.

So, maybe what you really need is to tuck horizontally all around the pattern, front and back, and then do an FBA to get back the bust room on the front. You do look very petite in length from shoulder to waist.

Edited because, really, how many times could I say "too" in this??


-- Edited on 3/29/07 9:52 AM --

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"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com

Sewliz
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Sewliz  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/29/07 9:39 AM

You have lovely curves in your figure. Since patterns are drafted for a less blessed body you will have to first make sure your garment is actually accomodating your shape. It looks like your bust is perhaps fuller than the bodice is designed for? Or maybe it is just your good posture. Having AA bust myself I am not a good judge of cup size in other people but patterns are drafted for a B cup. Larger than B will take up more length in the front of the bodice making the difference in length of front and back greater.

I'm starting with the front because it looks like the bust area is being pulled forward from the side seam. If it is, this should be fixed before the back IMHO as it is contributing to the back problem.

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Liz

thefittinglife.blogspot.com

Marji
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Marji
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Date: 3/29/07 9:39 AM

I agree with Irina and DebbieC, the whole bodice is probably too long for you, but the extra you need for the bust is taking up the length in the front.
Going forward, there are some pattern alterations that you'll want to start incorporating so that your bodices are tailored especially to fit You.
However, I'm assuming you want to fix This dress, right? Fortunately it's a print, and the print will hide some of the horizontal seaming you're going to need to take.
Is there a waistline seam? Can you take a pic of the back of the dress? and a pic maybe of the pattern so that we can see what it looks like without all the print? I think you can save it with some creative stitching. Unless you have enough fabric to cut a new back?
You're going to need to take out the zipper and remove the stitching across the back waistline seam anyway. Some of the bodice back is going to end up getting taken out at the waistline, and some is going to need to be taken out in a horiz seam from the bottom of the armscye to the CB.
-- Edited on 3/29/07 9:44 AM --

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Marji
http://fiberartsafloat.blogspot.com

trinicity
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trinicity  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/29/07 9:39 AM

WOW, hopefully this one doesn't end up in the trash

this the pattern
href='http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.item.B4957=x&TI=10010&page=1' target='_blank'>B4957

I have fit for real people with all the adjustments
can someone guide me to what adjustment I can use out of that as a start towards fixing my dress?

I don't know,, or have never performed a horizontal tuck, so I don't know what this is, I really don't understand how I could make the exact same dress in wool crepe which fits,, and this one, don't -- Edited on 3/29/07 10:03 AM --

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My Blog: www.trinilove.typepad.com

Sewliz
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Sewliz  Friend of PR
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In reply to trinicity


Date: 3/29/07 10:05 AM

LOL, Debbie, Marji and I were all talking at the same time saying almost the same thing. Hope you could hear through the din.

Start with fitting the bust. Decide if you need a full bust adjustment.

The wool crepe will give some under stress and hide some fitting issues. If your pictured dress is in poly it has no give and will show off all the fitting problems.

------
Liz

thefittinglife.blogspot.com

Debbie Cook
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Debbie Cook
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Date: 3/29/07 10:08 AM

Quote:
Start with fitting the bust. Decide if you need a full bust adjustment


Actually, I'm going to disagree on that. You should start with the back. Get the back width and length correct and then adjust the front.

A horizontal tuck is just that ... you fold out the excess length evenly across the pattern. If the armhole fits well, then make the tuck under the armhole so it doesn't change.

Put on a necklace and then measure yourself from where the necklace sits on your back neck, down to your waist. Compare that measurement to the back length given for the pattern. Start by folding out the difference between your actual measurement and the pattern measurement.

Do this tuck on the back and front.

Then look at full bust alterations in Fit For Real People. Your pattern already has a bust dart so the alteration will be fairly straightforward. Also look at my website, here, for how to deal with the bottom section of the dress. The tip is labelled for empire seams but, really, it applies to all dresses with a mid-section seam.


-- Edited on 3/29/07 10:14 AM --

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--
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com

Sherril Miller
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Sherril Miller  Friend of PR
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CA USA
Member since 8/24/02
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Date: 3/29/07 10:15 AM

Is this pattern too big? You may not think so because it fits you in the waist and hips, but how does it hang on your neckline and at the armholes?

You may need to use a smaller size to start with and add more width at the sides and do a FBA. Then remove length from the back. I'm suspicious the pattern is too large because it looks as if something is going on at the armhole and because of so much extra length in the back.

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If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL

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