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Forum > Sewing Techniques and Tips > Handworked topstitching ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Handworked topstitching
Eli
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Eli
Intermediate
Colorado USA
Member since 2/7/04
Posts: 568
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Date: 4/2/07 8:16 PM

I am not sure of the technical term for this hand stitch but it is seen in better RTW and serves as a decorative topstitch. From the right side it looks like stitch-space-stitch, and I think you do not see it from the wrond side because it is worked one layer only (for example, only the front piece, not the facing, etc.)
Does anyone know the name of this stitch and how exactly it is made - how long should the stitch be and how long the space between?

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http://theprincessseam.blogspot.com/

SewVeryTall
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SewVeryTall
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Nebraska USA
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In reply to Eli


Date: 4/2/07 9:09 PM

Hi Eli

It is called a backstitch or pickstitch.

Shows Stitches

I think this looks best when done 1/4" from the seamline or fabric's edge, and 1/4" apart. The part of the stitch that shows on top should be tiny, just a dot.

HTH :)

------
Ardis

the lefthanded daughter of a lefthanded mother

els
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els
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International NETHERLANDS
Member since 1/28/03
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In reply to Eli


Date: 4/2/07 10:08 PM

Hi Eli, I know this stitch as a decorative edge finish , it is called a zadelsteek in Dutch (Free English translation a saddle stitch) The stitch is hand sewn at an equal distance from the edge. I found a picture in an old sewing book.
zadelsteek

The stitch is made like a sort of basting stitch with a thicker thread like buttonhole thread or a few strands of embroidery floss. The stitches are longer in length on the outside and smaller at the inside.
Tany made a coat and used this stitch see her review
Detail view

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http://thesewingdivas.wordpress.com/

Lady_Mame
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Lady_Mame
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Washington USA
Member since 3/11/07
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In reply to els


Date: 4/2/07 10:33 PM

WOW, what a coat! Amesome detail stitching.

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Needle Needle Straight and Slim, Dust and Sweep the House for Him! --Grimm Fairy Tales

Eli
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Eli
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Colorado USA
Member since 2/7/04
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In reply to els


Date: 4/2/07 11:31 PM

Els,
Do you go with the needle through the front and the facing or do you work the front and the facing seperately so the effect on both sides is uniform?
Also, I was wondering if any rules appply as to the positioning of the topstitching. I intended to make 2 rows - one edgestitching and one 3/4" away from the edge. Will that look odd?
Eli
-- Edited on 4/3/07 0:32 AM --

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http://theprincessseam.blogspot.com/

els
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els
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International NETHERLANDS
Member since 1/28/03
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In reply to Eli


Date: 4/3/07 6:41 PM

Eli, I never used this stitch but if I would need to use it I would prefer to do it separate on the fabric side and a separate stitch on the facing side so both sides will be equal. For stitching on the fabric side I would stitch passing both the seam allowances ( fabric and facing ) On the facing side I would stitch only the facing part.
I have no idea if there are rules I think it is up to your preferences and a way to see what looks odd or not is doing some test samples and compare the samples and see what you prefer on your garment.

There is a notion called Tiger Tape which helps to space and stitch even stitches along the lines.
Good luck.

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http://thesewingdivas.wordpress.com/

Tany
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Tany
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Date: 4/3/07 7:51 PM

Hi Eli,

I see you are interested to know about the saddle stitch, it's basically as Els explained, a running even spaced stitch. I used double buttonhole thread on the Orwell coat. I would have iiked to make sepatrate stitches on facings and right sides but I was dealing with a very bulky fabric and the stitches also served the purpose of holding the edges together and flat so my stitches look smaller on the inside but still even. I advise you to run some tests first and to practice until you get a perfectly even stitch.

Happy sewing to you!

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Tany (AKA Teresa)

Elona
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Elona  Friend of PR
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In reply to Eli


Date: 4/3/07 8:39 PM

Eli, I used this on Burda 3018, going through all layers, mostly to make all those thicknesses behave better!

To maintain an even distance from the edges, I machine-basted 3/8" from them, using a very long machine stitch. Working alongside this line of basting, I think I took one hand stitch for every two or three machine stitches, which helped to keep things regular.

Eli
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Eli
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Colorado USA
Member since 2/7/04
Posts: 568
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Date: 4/3/07 11:29 PM

Thank you, ladies,
i did not expect such a helpful response, to be honest.
I went today to TJMaxx because I remembered I'd seen there an E. Tahari white pantsuit with this type of topstitch. Interestingly enough, the jacket was done the was SewVeryTall suggested and the pant the way Els suggested, and it still looked good.
Els, thank you so much for the imput and for the link to the Tiger Tape.
Tany, your creation is just beyond words. I actually got almost depressed last night upon seeing all the details of your tailoring because I had the sad realization I would never have your skills... Beautiful and oh so precise work! I am going to take your advice and use double buttonhole twist.
Elona, I loved your tone on tone topstitching, very pretty and delicate. I like your suggestion about the basting guide, unfortunately my fabric is prione to needle marks so I cannot do that... I can see though how that would have worked nicely had the fabric been different.
Thank you all!
Eli

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http://theprincessseam.blogspot.com/

pubysew
pubysew
Member since 3/29/07
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Date: 4/15/07 11:34 AM

if anybody can help!
I'm looking for how can i make a tipe of pleat by hand on evening gown.Very tiny pleats i know made by hand and give you a wave look.I don't know the name of it,but some designer use it.

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