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help with Hot Patterns Deco Vibe Cosmopolitan Dress
neckline troubles
varga100
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varga100
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California USA
Member since 4/14/06
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Date: 4/9/07 11:45 PM

I just finished up my muslin of Hot Patterns Deco Vibe Cosmopolitan dress.

I like the way it looks when I'm standing up. In fact, I think it looks just like the pattern envelope. Yay!

BUT when I sit down it starts to get a little obscene. A bird's eye view is even worse. Not what I'm after.

I'm pretty green when it comes to fitting and I've recently lost a ton of weight so I don't have a dressform at the moment. I've already taken in the back seam considerably that helped some but I'm still showing far too much cleavage for my comfort.

So my question is, what would you do to fix this? Did I make the wrong size or do I need to modify the pattern somehow? Should I try adding some elastic?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks all!

-- Edited on 4/9/07 11:51 PM --

poplin
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poplin
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In reply to varga100


Date: 4/10/07 3:45 AM

Have you seen Ann's tutorial on neckline for her Cosmopolitan Dress (Gorgeous Thing's Blog)? But it's not the same neckline. I don't know if you want to apply elastic on a low scoop neck.

Here's a solution for your neckline from Patternmaking Made Easy by Connie Crawford. On your pattern piece:

1. Draw in a 1/2" slightly curved dart from the middle of the neckline to nothing at the middle of the armhole. (The lower the neckline the wider this dart pinch should be.)

2. Slash and, pivoting from the armhole, close the dart to nothing at the armhole.

3. Reblend the neckline. (This method shortens the neckline, and at the same time brings the shoulder/armhole corner seams back onto the body. If this pattern adjustment is not made, the shoulder seams will slouch onto the arms and a gaping neckline will result.)


HTH.

------
Dec 2012: 2 yards

Her needlework both plain and ornamental was excellent, and she might have put a sewing machine to shame. ~James Edward Austen-Leigh, about Jane Austen

Sew4Fun
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In reply to varga100


Date: 4/10/07 5:32 AM

Have you considered your height? Hot Patterns are dafted for someone 5'8" tall. Now overall you look to be on the tall side but in your photo you appear to have long legs and a short torso. Therefore maybe you need to shorten the pattern above the waist.

As this garment is tied at the waist, if the top part of the dress is too long when you sit the extra length will cause the neckline and entire bodice to gape.

It's hard to diagnose this from a photo but it is something to consider. There are many reasons for your issue, this is just one.

------
Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/

varga100
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varga100
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In reply to Sew4Fun


Date: 4/11/07 11:10 AM

Thanks very much for your input. I'll give the suggestions a try!

Christina Sonja
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Christina Sonja  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/11/07 12:21 PM

I just wanted to add that I had this same issue!

I tissue fit the pattern rather than making a proper muslin and noticed that the scoop neck was low, but it didn't seem *too* bad. However when I made up my garment the neckline was just obsenely low - either your bra is showing, or if you go without a bra you run the risk of exposing something else!

I tried adding a neckline ruffle to cover more skin but it just flopped outward in an unappealing manner.

Fortunately I didn't spend too much on the poly-blend fabric so I just threw it in the wadder pile. I think Diana's suggestion for redrafting sounds great! I hope to work on this again because the fit is great, otherwise.

ETA: In addition to the 'pinch out' method that Diana described, I would also consider redrafting the neckline an inch or more higher (for me at least, the finished neckline as drafted is that close to my bra and I'd prefer a litlte more leeway in my movements!).
-- Edited on 4/11/07 12:28 PM --

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Christina
www.assortednotions.com

Debbie Cook
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Date: 7/6/08 1:59 AM

Resurrecting this old thread to ask another DVCD-related question, but not about the neckline. I just figured it would be easier to keep the questions together.

Anyway ... where in the world are the fabric/notion requirements for this dress? I've looked on the envelope, the instruction sheet, the website. I don't really *need* them because I can figure it out, but I'm just curious. Am I missing a fabric/layout sheet? Am I looking right at it and not seeing it?

------
--
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com

Karla Kizer
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In reply to Debbie Cook


Date: 7/6/08 8:25 AM

Debbie, I'm too lazy to dig out my copy (Translation: where the heck IS that thing???), ), but the yardage estimates are usually on the envelope tab - the part you had to peel to open the envelope. I don't remember a layout guide, but I might have just ignored it the way I usually do.

And for what it's worth, I now peel up that tab (carefully), then fold it in so it's permanently stuck to the inside of the envelope. It means I can't close up the envelope, but they're so generously sized that it hasn't caused a problem; the alternative was to have this sticky tab exposed to every bit of cat hair and thread that passed its way.

------
“Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and it annoys the pig.” -Robert Heinlein and Ann's father. Thanks for the reminder, Ann.

Where are we going, and what am I doing in this handbasket?

Matthew 25:40 (New International Version)
The King will reply, 'I tell you the truth, whatever you did for one of the least of these brothers of mine, you did for me.'



greco
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Date: 7/6/08 9:01 AM

Looking at your photo, you are longer of leg than torso, at least for this style dress. An alteration approach would be to remove the sleeves, pull up the shoulders (it appears to be about an inch to an inch and a half), cut down the armhole and reset the sleeves. When you do this, the darts will sit in the the correct spot at the bust apex allowing the extra fabric to sit smoothly from below the bust to the waist. When you go to make the pattern again, address this the same way with the pattern pieces. Taking anything from the pattern that would or may affect the circumfrance, may cause a tightening affect or sizing issue if you don't allow for the change in the side seams, but this appears to be a torso length issue to me from what I can tell in the photo of you standing. The other photo would not open. JF

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to Debbie Cook


Date: 7/6/08 9:34 AM

Hi Debbie,
There are no layout sheets for the early patterns and Karla is right, if you tore off the tab you are out of luck about the yardage, but it requires about 4 yards, if I remember correctly, at least for my size which is a 14-16 Glamour girl, I think, which is the middle size group of the 3 available. I don't know where you fall in the sizing on these older patterns. You can always e mail them and they respond pretty quickly

------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

emelle
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emelle
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In reply to Debbie Cook


Date: 7/6/08 10:35 AM

What little is there is, is on the back of the envelope tab...I am starting today on my muslin, so have it handy.....will copy for you....it is one thing about HP website that drives me crazy-not having the fabric requirements listed for some (it seems the older ones) patterns....here goes:

Size 6-8-10- 3 1/2 yds for long skirt, 3 yards short skirt
Size 12-14-16-18- 4 yards long skirt, 3 1/2 yards short skirt
Size 20-22-24-26- 41/2 yards long skirt, 4 yards short skirt
ALL yardage is 60"wide....45"wide will not work (according to the tab)

Also 1/2 yd fusible interfacing
Also 1x22"zipper

I notice lots of people leave off the zipper

No fabric layout sheet that I see.

HTH, ML

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