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Forum > Bridal and Formalwear Sewing > Does this make sense to you? Calling all math majors! ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Does this make sense to you? Calling all math majors!
Drafting lace for a train....
ConnieBJ
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Date: 4/11/07 11:42 AM

I am making my daughters wedding dress - she wants an allover lace dress, with a ruched bodice -that part is easy, but I am trying to get my head around the lace part and fabricating the train.
So here's the thinking part. The lace is 52inches wide - Alencon with a beautiful border. The lady at the fabric store where we purchased it (LA Fabrics in Toronto - go there if you want beautiful albiet expensive fabric) suggested a method that makes so much sense. So much sense in fact that I think it is toooo simple!
Basically you take your length of fabric, measure where it is going to go around the body- in this case just under Kate's bust- so that the 52 inches hits the floor at the proper length. Add seam allowance of course. Then draw a line at a 45 degree angle out from the top edge - forming a trapazoid. When you sew those 45 degree angles together, you get the train (and yes I know the proper way to seam lace invisibly- believe me I have ALL the books!)

HERE is a diagram of what (I think) was explained to me.

Geometry wise, that would make the length about 77" from the ?backbustline? to the border. I know some pivoting of border will have to happen in order to have a nice rounded instead of a point.

SO the question is - does this make sense to you??? It just seems so darned simple! Using this method means that the border will be uninterrupted. I guess I should mention that the dress is a basic A line based on this Vogue dress. VERY loosely based as it will have a sweetheart neckline, sleeves of some sort and a lace up back- but the basic lines will still be there!

I thought this belonged in pattern drafting - if it needs to be moved to bridal Pyrose, go ahead!

-- Edited on 4/11/07 11:49 AM --

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Connie Bontje

http://www.couturesmith.com
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Desperately trying to keep ahead of my pattern, fabric and dressform collection!

dvazz
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dvazz
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Date: 4/11/07 1:47 PM

OK...I may be way off on this...but I think you're trying to make the distance from under her bust to the floor be exactly 52 inches, which seems unlikely to be accurate unless she is about 7.5 feet tall. At least, according to your diagram (your description sounds OK).

I'm thinking she is telling you to keep the bottom border intact but cut the top so that the overall length of fabric (the part marked 52 in your photo) is equal to her measurement from under bust to floor, plus extra for seam allowance at the top (and maybe more to accomodate the A-line). You would have a trapezoid with top length equal to her under bust measurement (plus SA), height equal to her measurement under bust to floor, (plus extra) and then base equal to under bust measurement plus 2 times (under bust to floor). Your math on the length to tip of train was right; take under bust to floor measurement and multiply by square root of two (about 1.4).

Please make a muslin...don't trust me too far!
-- Edited on 4/11/07 1:53 PM --
-- Edited on 4/11/07 1:59 PM --

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Dana

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In reply to ConnieBJ


Date: 4/11/07 2:28 PM

It's an intriguing idea, I wish I had thought of it when I did my sister's dress because I think it would have worked for hers. But, for your dress, I think you will run into problems because you have a princess seamed front. The trapezoid will allow for the flare to the back, but it makes a columnar front. Cut your trapezoid out of a piece of paper and curve it around and your will see the shape you are going to get.

If you used your hem circumference to determine the large base of your trapezoid and then made two deep gashes into the middle part of the lace from the top to border (the area for the front of the dress, where the princess seams are) and overlapped them like two big darts, you could add some front flare. Do this in the paper too.

You can play with your lace without cutting it to get some idea of how things will go. Attaching the border separate isn't too bad actually, if you decide to go that route. I found the lace to be very maleable and easy to work with.

ConnieBJ
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Date: 4/11/07 2:31 PM

Dovie thanks - that makes sense- I will try that.
Dana - I will be making a muslin for sure!

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Connie Bontje

http://www.couturesmith.com
Twitter: Couturesmith
Facebook: Connie Bontje
Desperately trying to keep ahead of my pattern, fabric and dressform collection!

Pyrose
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Subject: Topic moved Date: 4/11/07 3:52 PM

This topic has been moved from Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting to Bridal and Formalwear Sewing

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Jennifer
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