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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Crotch hanging too low on my "beginner" pants! ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Crotch hanging too low on my "beginner" pants!
Vogue 8367
afternoon_sun
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afternoon_sun
Beginner
Member since 5/29/06
Posts: 20
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Date: 5/2/07 8:40 AM

Hi everyone,

I just finished my first pair of pants - except for the hem - and the crotch is hanging about 2 or 3 inches lower than it should. I didn't notice this with my muslin, but the muslin was cotton and my fashion fabric is a tencel twill, which might be heavier. I made view C, the long pants.

Is this something I can fix on the finished garment, or do I have to go back to the pattern? The pants fit in every other regard. I cut a straight 12 and took in the waist only at the side seams and CB seam a total of about one inch. Based on the finished hip measurement, I did not have to make any adjustments there and I have plenty of room to move around and zip them up. Thanks everyone!

Vogue 8367

G_l_e_n_d_a
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G_l_e_n_d_a
Advanced Beginner
CA USA
Member since 5/11/05
Posts: 1115
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Date: 5/2/07 9:52 AM

If the crotch is too long, the best fix I can think of for a completed garment would be to take some length off at the waist. If you have darts, zipper, and/or a waistband, you will need to take the pants apart and redo those things.

HTH,
Glenda

PattiAnnJ
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PattiAnnJ
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OH USA
Member since 12/3/06
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In reply to afternoon_sun


Date: 5/2/07 3:07 PM

This may help per (Jan Saunders' Wardrobe Quick-Fixes):

Stitch a deeper inner-leg seam to shorten the crotch. Start 7" below the crotch intersection, then taper the seam up to a comfortable depth. Repeat for the other side.

When I used this method, I basted first for fit, then sewed the seams as re-marked.

You may get other suggestions, please keep us posted as to which one worked the best for you.

Happy Sewing!

------
I dont give them Hell, I just tell the truth about them and they think its Hell. Harry Truman

"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

PattiAnnJ
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PattiAnnJ
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In reply to G_l_e_n_d_a


Date: 5/2/07 3:10 PM

That was my first thought, then I looked at the pattern (see the reference given in original e-mail). The pants are very fashionable, with a high tapered waist and side pockets - more than I would want to tackle from that end!

------
I dont give them Hell, I just tell the truth about them and they think its Hell. Harry Truman

"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

Necia

Necia
Beginner
NJ USA
Member since 5/17/06
Posts: 34
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In reply to PattiAnnJ


Date: 5/2/07 3:39 PM

Thanks Spice Girl,

This helps me on a total different pattern. I'm having the same issue. A co-worker suggested the same as you, but not quite as clear. Thanks for the insight!

Necia

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www.thescentscene.com/janeofalltrades/

Karen Nutbrown
Karen Nutbrown
Intermediate
BC CANADA
Member since 12/20/02
Posts: 64
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Date: 5/6/07 11:59 AM

Good morning,

This is a problem I am having too. Is there an adjustment we can make to the pattern to correct this. I have a great pattern, my problem is when I walk the pants pull slightly over the upper thighs. I am not big in the area at all, if I pull them up a bit then they are fine. Would this be my problem then?

Thank you.

Karen

Elona
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In reply to Karen Nutbrown


Date: 5/6/07 12:55 PM

That's exactly it: If it binds over the upper thighs, and the problem goes away when you pull the pants up, the crotch is too low. Apart from comfort, another reason to raise the crotch line is that it makes your legs look longer

It's kind of a tricky to get the real measurement you need. The classic advice is to tie an elastic around your natural waist, then sit on a hard, flat surface, and have someone hold a straight ruler up to your side, to measure the vertical distance between the chair and your elastic waist (you then compare this with the same measurement on the pattern).

In doing this, you get a fairly accurate measurement of the distance between your waist and your sitzbones, the ischial tuberosities of your pelvis. It will not take into account side hip fluff, or the distance the derriere actually hangs below those bones when you're standing.

Still, it's a good starting point, to see how much you might have to shorten the pattern there. The other critical measurement is called the "stride," and you get it by tying elastic around your waist, and then measuring the distance, between your legs, from center front waist to center back waist. Hold the measuring tape as close to your body as you want the pants to ride, and that takes care of the "ease" notion.

Then, you stand your tape measure on edge and measure along the seamlines of the front and back pattern pieces (allowing for the height of the waistband, which you have to factor in).

Karen Nutbrown
Karen Nutbrown
Intermediate
BC CANADA
Member since 12/20/02
Posts: 64
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Date: 5/6/07 6:35 PM

Thank you so much. I think (from measuring as you suggested)Ineed to raise the crotch about 1/2 an inch. How do I make this adjust on the pattern pieces?

Karen

Elona
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In reply to Karen Nutbrown


Date: 5/7/07 2:14 AM

I always have t shorten my patterns for this, and what I do is to lay the pattern pieces out on a gridded board, lining up the grainline with one of the vertical lines. About six inches down from the waist, I draw a horizontal line across both the front and back pieces. Half an inch up or down from the that line, I draw another one parallel to it. Bring the lines together, and voil, half a vertical inch (which isn't very much, btw) is removed.

If there are design features like pockets or fly fronts, this half-inch shortening will affect them, but not by much.

Cynsew
Cynsew
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OH USA
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Date: 5/8/07 7:07 PM

I have made plenty of pants and I think once you have the correct crotch adjustment, then all of your other problems are easy. You have to make the crotch adjustment "BEFORE" you cut out your pattern.

You need to take two measuring tapes and hook them together at the very tips. Sew one end of the tape measure starting with number one onto a piece of fabric and then but the other measuring tape to it also starting with number one to it and sew it. Also sew a piece of string to that intersection about 12 inches long where you butted the ends together. If you don't understand this, I will try and post a picture. Now to the piece of string, attach something heavy, like one of your husbands washers or something. This is the very best crotch measurement you will ever get. You hold this between your legs and the string will be directly between your legs and have it hanging straight. Now hold up the measuring tapes to your waist in the front and back. Take both measurements. Add these two measurements together for a total crotch measurement. Now measure your pattern and see what the crotch measurement is on it. Now here is the adjustment. Measure the front panels crotch and measure the back panels crotch. You will now see where you need to make your adjustment. You may need the adjustment in the back if you have a rounded behind or you may need it more in the front if you have a belly. By taking your front and back crotch measurement separately you can see exactly where you need the room added or taken away. I also add about 1-2 inches extra for ease depending on how tight you want your pants.
-- Edited on 5/8/07 7:10 PM --

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