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Message Board > Beginner's Forum > patterns (and advice) for making a crinoline ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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patterns (and advice) for making a crinoline
crinoline for full skirt
ol'dress
ol'dress
Member since 6/4/07
Posts: 4
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Date: 7/10/07 10:35 AM

Does anybody know of a company that makes a pattern for crinolines? I'm makine a 50's/60's pattern that has a full skirt, and I'll need a crinoline to support the skirt and show it to advantage.



Thanks

Prisca712
Prisca712
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Member since 7/9/05
Posts: 64
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Date: 7/10/07 12:21 PM

Hi ol'dress, the cool thing about these crinolines is that it is actually possible to make one without buying a pattern. Here are a couple of links to tutorials for a crinoline (each has a slightly different method...I'm using second site for mine and it's given be a nice result so far):

Petticoat tutorial

Alice Lon petticoat tutorial

You know those broomstick skirts that have been trendy for the past few months? The process of making a crinoline is similar to that. Basically you divide the length of the crinoline into the number of tiers you want, and make each one 2X (or, for *insane* fullness, 3X) times fuller the previous one. For example, if you had crinoline that you wanted to be 24 inches you could divide it into 4 tiers that were each 6 inches long (each tier's actual length would be 7 inches, allowing 1/2 in for seam allowances). You decide how long you want the top tier (say, 3 meters), which leaves you with a top tier of 6 in x 3 meters. The tier below that would be 6 in x 6 meters, below would be 6 in x 12 meters, and finally 6 in x 24 meters.

To construct it, you start from the bottom tier and gather it so that it fits to the previous layer (a popular method for gathering larger areas like this is to zigzag over a piece of fishing line and pull from both ends...as someone who tried this recently with the crinoline I'm working on I can honestly say that it makes things *really* more convenient ) You then sew it to the tier above, then repeat till you've got everything attached. You can then sew it all to a waistband.

A few random tips
--As I mentioned, when constructing this, start from the bottom (i.e. fullest) layer - IMO it's easier
--To simplify the gathering and attaching process, take the section you're gathering and divide that into fourths. Then do the same for the section you're attaching the piece to. That way, after you've gathered the needed piece, you can 'match' the marked points, kind of like notches.
--Since you'll be most likely working with something like netting, it won't be easy to mark. To do marking (like to find the fourths), use safety pins.
--For fabric choices, try to go with either netting or the actual crinoline net...when looking to make my crinoline, I found that tulle was a little too soft and drapey to hold out a skirt. Net is probably the cheapest (actually cheaper than tulle - up here it's like $1.57CAD), but crinoline, while more expensive, is *really* stiff and would probably be your ideal material (I opted for net due to having a university student budget ;))

Hmm, that was sort of long winded...I think that covers pretty much everything though A lot of this is sort of gleaned from my own journey into crinoline making. I hope this helps - if you need any further clarification just feel free to ask away.

------
Born to sew!

boppingbeth
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boppingbeth  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/10/07 7:59 PM

A gathering foot works wonders for gathering miles and miles of 'ruffle' like crinoline.

If you want to have your crinoline really stiff (really really stiff), you can soak it in the bathtub with a starch solution, and then let it drip dry--usually on the basement floor, open.

You don't have to use crinoline for all the layers of the skirt, but it does help to have at least one layer made of crinoline. You can have a second 'net' layer placed above it, attached at the second ruffle, to soften and fill the skirt. Net softens when washed, and can rip if handled poorly.

If you are doing a costume, and you want a cheap alternative (but not a 'cool alternative'--it can be warm to wear), curtain sheers work for layers of crinoline. You can purchase really cheap old curtains at value village or salvation army for a couple of dollars. If you do this, though, the inside layer (skirt) should be a decent cotton or broadcloth, just so that you are cool. Most of my mother's old 50's skirt crinolines are made from something similar to old curtains. You can also get a really cool 'trim' for one edge from the bottom of the embroidered curtains, if you wanted.

------
Sew on through all ups and downs. Remember--it is only fabric.

Sill working on Fabric stash reduction: Aiming to see the sewing room floor before 2009.

Happy go lucky
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Happy go lucky
Beginner
AUSTRALIA
Member since 2/2/07
Posts: 253
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Date: 7/10/07 9:35 PM

Some more instructions/advice for making a petticoat.

http://scpbanks.blogspot.com/2007/04/i-knew-id-have-to-make-one-eventually.html
http://scpbanks.blogspot.com/2007/04/petticoat-update-not-done-yet.html
http://scpbanks.blogspot.com/2007/04/petticoat-finished-before-i-get-to.html

------
Perth, Australia
Google map of Aust & NZ sewing resources
http://tiny.cc/VEbty

ol'dress
ol'dress
Member since 6/4/07
Posts: 4
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Date: 7/11/07 8:36 AM

Thank you all- I'm good to go!

boppingbeth
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boppingbeth  Friend of PR
Intermediate
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Date: 7/12/07 2:24 PM

Just for fun, I tried the Alice Lon petticoat--talk about fun!

Some quick notes about it: on the instructions, they say cut two circle skirts for the top. They don't ever say sew the first long ruffle to the first circle skirt, and the second to the second, but that is what you need to do if you use something other than the nylon net fabric suggested. (Ask me how I know this....). Each lower tier is 24 m long, one from each circle. You can use anything light and stiff for the ruffles, and batiste or something thin and comfortable for the top circles. Use 1 inch flat ribbon or pettrisham for the waist, with a slit to get in and out (don't use a casing, it adds a lot of bulk), and use either a waist tie or hook and eyes to close the waist band.

For fun, I made a ballet length crinoline. I used up some not so nice batiste for the top, and some white ribbon striped organza for the ruffles. Then I used about 1 1/2 rolls of white pregathered eyetlet trim that had been languishing in my stash for the bottom edge of the lower ruffle, and topstitched narrow lace over the eyelet to make it lie flat on the bottom. This is a totally comfortable, very full, crinoline. Now, to make a black crinoline with something from my stash....
-- Edited on 7/12/07 2:28 PM --

------
Sew on through all ups and downs. Remember--it is only fabric.

Sill working on Fabric stash reduction: Aiming to see the sewing room floor before 2009.

PattiAnnJ
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PattiAnnJ
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OH USA
Member since 12/3/06
Posts: 6854
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In reply to ol'dress


Date: 7/12/07 9:42 PM

You have receive some good ideas. My suggestion is, if you do a heavy starch, be sure to wear a slip under the crinoline as the starch may be scratchy.

------
I dont give them Hell, I just tell the truth about them and they think its Hell. Harry Truman

"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

AmyLT
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AmyLT
Intermediate
ON CANADA
Member since 7/25/09
Posts: 1
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Date: 4/17/10 11:31 PM

Thank you for the great advice. I just finished making a full crinoline for my wedding dress and the advice to use fishing line was invaluable. This saved so much trouble with threads breaking. Thanks!

Diamond827
Diamond827
Member since 3/30/11
Posts: 1
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In reply to boppingbeth


Date: 3/30/11 4:32 PM

Thanks so much for all the advice! My friend and I are trying to combine two slips into one and create a kind of fish tail to make the train on my wedding gown "float" instead of drag. I bought some extra tulle today so I'm gonna soak it in the starch, as somebody else suggested and we're gonna make this work! Mind you, I've never had a sewing lesson in my life, but I'm a real good concept person!

JoJo Sews
JoJo Sews  Friend of PR
Intermediate
AUSTRALIA
Member since 4/13/09
Posts: 2
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In reply to Prisca712


Date: 6/17/11 7:48 AM

Thanks for all the great tips on making a crinoline. I have found a comprehensive tutorial based on the Alice Lon version, that someone has since very kindly posted on craftster.com. It has awesome instructions, measurements and graphics to assist!

Here is the link:
http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=210078.0;all

------
Jo Muscat
Sydney, Australia

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