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Message Board > "Gigi's" Expert Forum - (READ ONLY) > Bust alteration

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Bust alteration
Difference between high and full bust
siobhan
siobhan
Advanced
AUSTRALIA
Member since 11/1/02
Posts: 104
Date: 12/29/03 11:58 PM

Dear Gigi,

My high bust is 34" and full bust is 40" .  This requires quite and adjustment as you can see.

Should I go ahead and enlarge the bust dart so much in a straight shirtmaker dress or is there another way to approach the adjustment.  It will make the bust dart enormous.

Anyway, Happy New Year from sunny hot
Australia.

Siobhan


'

Gigi Louis
starstarstarstar
Gigi Louis
Advanced
Member since 4/4/02
Posts: 7876
Date: 12/30/03 10:11 AM

Siobhan, always choose your pattern by the high bust measurement.  Then, to see how much of a full bust alteration youwill need you will have to pin the pattern together and try it on.  Measure from your center front to the center front marking on the pattern.  That is the amount you will need to spread your vertical cut.  This amount will differ for every pattern - it will be more for fitted garments and less or non-existent for looser garments.

If you do a search in the Expert Forum for bust alterations there are about two pages of threads discussing this - you might find them helpful.

Neefer
starstarstar
Neefer
Intermediate
CA USA
Member since 4/8/02
Posts: 2662
Date: 12/30/03 1:47 PM

I have a high bust of 41" and a full bust of 46-47 inches.  I use darts a lot, and it seems like a really big dart when I'm drafting the alteration, but it doesn't when I've got the top finished.  It makes a HUGE difference in fit, front gaping/stretching, and comfort.

Be sure to get the dart positioning correct, usually it's lower, and the dart should be shorter than commonly shown in patterns (ie less pointy triangle).  I usually shorten mine 1/2 to an inch.  That's a trial and error thing.

------
Neefer aka AgitProp and Village Churl Sewing Blog: http://www.oaktrees.org/blog/

Bonny lass, bonny lass, will you be mine?
You shall neither wash dishes nor serve the wine;
But sit on a cushion and sew a fine seam,
And feast upon strawberries, sugar, and cream.

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