Member since 12/6/05
Date: 9/16/07 5:23 AM
Dear Fitting Geniuses,
Can anyone explain why the hems on the shirt I have just made are not parallel with the ground? It is the short sleeve version described in this review. In this version of the shirt I decreased shoulder width to fit husband properly but have not changed the armscye or sleeve cap significantly.
Have I messed it up somehow by moving the shoulder seam actually on to my husband's shoulders? I have another theory. Supposing Kwik Sew expect men's chests to be rounder. Then the underarm seam would be higher. This would I think make the final resulting hem more parallel with the ground.
Advice on what action to take? Should I raise the underarm? I don't want to make the shirt too tight at the under arm...
The other issue is that the sleeve looks too wide to me. D.P.Coffin's book, shirtmaking, says if you raise the sleeve cap height then you decrease the sleeve width... but I am wondering if the armscye is just too wide...
Member since 6/22/04
In reply to julesberry
Date: 9/16/07 8:10 AM
Sleeve hems? I don't think short sleeve hems are meant to be parallel to the ground as they are drafted for arm movement. To me it looks like this Kwiksew pattern is designed with slightly extended shoulders where the shoulder seam hangs off the tip of the shoulder some. The corresponding sleevecap could very well be a little flatter than on a shirt that was made to be more fitted in the shoulder area.
Member since 4/8/02
Date: 9/16/07 8:57 AM
I think the sleeves look find just as they are. If the hems were parallel to the ground, I think it would look - dare I say it - dorky. Here's a picture of a DKNY shirt from a major department store's website. If RTW can do it, so can we.
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Member since 3/19/04
Date: 9/16/07 10:38 AM
It looks fine as it is - you didn't mess anything up.
A sleeve with a higher sleeve cap will have a hem that is closer to being parallel to the ground. As you said, this will also make the sleeve more narrow and this sleeve could use a little less width. I've been making KS tees for my DH and have had similar problems with how KS drafts the sleeves on the men's patterns, at least for trim men. I raised the sleeve cap 1" in this review of KS3299; I've gone on to raise it about 1" more to help get rid of all the drag marks around the shoulders and underarms. You don't want to have a real high cap, like in a tailored jacket, or else it'll pull when he raises his arms. I laid a RTW shirt that fit well over my KS shirt and it was easy to see that the RTW sleeve had a higher cap and was a couple of inches narrower. Try that if you can, at least to get an idea of how much extra width there is.
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