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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > don't know what else to do

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don't know what else to do
snowey

snowey  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/14/07 10:47 AM

Here are pictures of my 4th muslin of these pants. I lowered the waist by 3 inches to 1" at the side seams. I also added 1" to the back waist crotch lenght and 1/2 inches to inseam. I also lowered the crotch curve by 1/2". I did a 1/2" vertical tuck on the back. What is wrong with these pants and pockets? I am not satisified. Please help. Vogue 7027
I do no one thing, I should not wear pleated pants. I think I should stick with the flat front.

click here
click here
click here


If these pictures does not show correctly, could someone tell what I am doing wrong
-- Edited on 11/14/07 8:22 AM --


-- Edited on 11/14/07 10:53 AM --

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Sheila

EleanorSews
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In reply to snowey


Date: 11/14/07 11:14 AM

My first question is: if you think you should stick to a flat front, why not wad these, take some of the fitting lessons learned and put your time into fitting a flat front style? No shame there.

I am no expert on pants fitting, but in your first photo, I want to fold out a wee bit but not at the waist. Maybe a narrow wedge that begins at the side seam about 4-5 inches below your waist and tapers to about half to two-thirds of the front.

As for the third photo, it looks to me as if the faric is pulling from the front. Could be the front crotch curve is too shallow.

I am sure others will be more definitive in describing than I have been. While I use books a lot in fitting, I also operate on the theory of pinning out where fabric seems to drag or hang and and opening up and allowing room where fabric seems to pull.

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"We don't see things as they are, we see them as we are." Anais Nin

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ccris
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In reply to snowey


Date: 11/14/07 11:54 AM

I read somewhere that those of us with tummies should turn the pleats the other way.

Pic #1..........It looks to me as if you need to make a horizontal tuck across the leg above the knee. I guess that might be called a fish-eye dart, because it wouldn't be affecting the side or inseam. Try pinning that out first to see if you like the look before doing anything else.

Pic #2.........It doesn't look as if your side seam is coming straight down the center of your leg and it's pulling at your pocket because there isn't enough width there. I'd add a little more ease in that area. Then I might add more front side seam width from waist to ankle and remove that same amount from back side seam. In other words, let out the front side seam and take in the back side seam. Clear as mud, huh?

Pic #3..........Back doesn't look bad. Maybe the above will fix the little drag line. Also, maybe scooping out the back crotch a tiny bit might help, too. It looks like you could use a teensy bit more room there.




Sherril Miller
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Subject: dont know what else to do Date: 11/14/07 1:17 PM

The back fit is almost there, but you have high hip issues. Pull the fabric down over each cheek while keeping the center back in the same position and see if those back drag lines go away. You'll need more length over those back hips. This will keep the top of the back from being even, but even doesn't work so give it a try. I need this same alteration, BTW.

I agree that the pleats aren't doing you any favors. Try again with a flat-front pattern.

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If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
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snowey

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Date: 11/14/07 1:31 PM

These will be a wadder, but, I want to get the fit right first. I want to try the alterations that were suggested on these hopefully tonight. Does anyone have a suggestion on a flat front pant pattern with pockets?

Thanks everyone

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Sheila

Sherril Miller
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Subject: dont know what else to do Date: 11/14/07 1:47 PM

Sheila, pockets are tricky on someone with a belly. I decided I needed to eliminate pockets to keep less bulk where I already have my own bulk. Do you carry a purse? If so, then you could probably eliminate the pockets. (I've become such a slave to fashion! LOL) When I need to only carry my keys, I tuck my key ring in my waistband under my top and have yet to lose them. I've also been known to keep a few dollars in my bra. Eliminating pockets requires that you keep your hands out of them, which is also not a flattering look on someone with a belly.

Another reason to eliminate pockets is that it makes fitting pants much less troublesome.

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If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL

Debbie Cook
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In reply to snowey


Date: 11/14/07 2:14 PM

Petite Plus 601, here, scroll down.

I haven't made it but I've read good things about it. It has the features you want, except you may want to relocate the zipper to the front, which is easy to do.

I *have* to have pockets too. Eliminating them isn't going to magically make me look like I'm 100 lbs. and it will just tick me off to not have them. I just use a pocket stay sewn into the front zip to eliminate gaping, and provide a bit more tummy control.

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Tom P
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In reply to snowey


Date: 11/14/07 2:46 PM

I don't think the pleats are that unflattering. It looks to me in the front view that it's the pocket gaping open that makes you look a little wider in the hips. If you could add a little width at the bottom of the pocket, it might hang a little flatter. Also, when you make the pants, you could stay the pocket opening by stitching a piece of lining or stay tape tautly along the front piece (that is, ease the front by 1/4 to 1/2 in when you apply it).

I think the pants would also hang a little better if you pull up the front so that the waist is level. My pants also tend to drop down in front, so I am always having to pull them up. When I do, however, they look better and my shirts and jackets also like they fit.

MarthaMcKeon
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Date: 11/14/07 3:34 PM

I agree with the above - the front is too long in relation to the back.

I think you got a pretty good fit in the back. Try letting out the side seams (just do one to check this); take a vertical tuck across the front, above the knee level; then pin or baste the side seams back together. This is to check the fall/grain - you can adjust the side seams later.

ccris
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Date: 11/14/07 5:08 PM

I'd forgotten about using the pocket stays that Debbie mentioned. If you have Threads #79 (Nov.1998) there's directions on how to do them for pleated pants. Stays do a very good job of keeping the pleats flat, the pockets from pulling open and flattening the tummy a bit. If you decide to go this route, you might not even have to add anymore ease in that area.

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