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Forum > Sewing Techniques and Tips > need help with notched collar technique ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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need help with notched collar technique
perfectionist learning collars
California USA
Member since 1/31/03
Posts: 329
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 11/30/07 10:24 PM

Hello fellow sewists! (Is that what we're calling ourselves these days?)
I've been away from sewing for about a year, but before that was struggling to learn how to do a traditional notched collar on a jacked. I've watche Judy Barlup's video's , which did help a lot, but I still didn't quite get it, Peggy Sagers. and have taken many classes with teachers hoping the light bulb would go off. Not sure what my mental block with this is, or is this type of collar hard for everyone?
Can anyone recommend a book, or video that might be good at demonstrating and explaining what to do? I get into trouble at the point where all three seams come together and my work tends to look sloppy and too bulky there. I truly am determined to learn, and know I need to be patient and have fun with it , rather than make it a chore with a lot of judgment around it.
I know I will learn...after all, I did learn how to custom fit pants to myself, after struggling with the crotch seam and depth for well over a year, I have pants that look good and feel good, and never thought I'd learn those, so it's a matter of patience and practice. I do have the time to practice these days so any help that might be offered would be really welcome.
I would also welcome a pattern suggestion that might be easy to learn on. I've not had luck with Peggy Sager's patterns. They are pretty, but the collar on mine came out too bulky and her technique is not the traditioal one that I really want to learn.
thanks in advance,
Alabama USA
Member since 8/7/07
Posts: 371
Skill: Expert/Couture
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Date: 11/30/07 10:30 PM

I have to run out at the moment, but I will say that when I teach this area, the problems you mention (bulky areas and not lining up) tend to originate from using fabrics that have a loose weave or too much give in which to learn this with.
Instead, try using a tight weave or high thread count, lighter weight textile (muslin is perfect) that will not give too much at all. The secret is in how you handle this, literally. Once you have mastered the technique, you will be able to use any textile rather comfortably. JF
Tom P
Tom P
New York USA
Member since 3/16/07
Posts: 888
Skill: Intermediate
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In reply to Tarawebster

Date: 12/1/07 11:20 AM

You can reduce the bulk a little by rolling the seam allowance slightly around to the back, basting the edge with silk thread, then pressing and using a clapper to set the crease. It's time consuming, but you really do get a good result with good quality wool cloth. You can do this even if you use the simplest construction methods (i.e., most pattern instructions) and machine stitch everything.

To put the top collar on you can use hand stitching to control where the seam allowances end up, and do things like mitering the corners. Cabrera's book Classic Tailoring Techniques shows this pretty well with a lot of illustrations. It may give you some ideas as to how this can be handled.
Karla Kizer
Karla Kizer  Friend of PR
Member since 4/8/02
Posts: 8184
Skill: Advanced
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Date: 12/1/07 11:30 AM

Tara, I don't consider myself a collar expert, so I won't waste your time with my suggestions. Please know that I've thought of you often- and I'm delighted to see you posting here on PR.

“Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and it annoys the pig.” -Robert Heinlein and Ann's father. Thanks for the reminder, Ann.

Where are we going, and what am I doing in this handbasket?

Matthew 25:40 (New International Version)
The King will reply, 'I tell you the truth, whatever you did for one of the least of these brothers of mine, you did for me.'

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