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How can I de-dart a pattern?
Jennalynn
Jennalynn
Intermediate
Member since 9/10/05
Posts: 30
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Date: 1/26/08 5:25 PM

Hello smart sewers...

Here's my question.

I'm not a dart friendly girl. Most pattern and ready to wear plus size makers think if you're plus sized you have to be at least a C or D cup. I'm not... I'm a small B, but I wear a size 32.

Darts in patterns (and RTW) always hit me in an odd spot and look weird.

How can I de-dart a pattern when I cut it out, so that it will still all come together right when I sew it up...

strasfamily
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strasfamily
Advanced Beginner
Arizona USA
Member since 4/11/07
Posts: 100
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In reply to Jennalynn


Date: 1/26/08 5:56 PM

Here is a method that I just recently used for a renaissance costume - hopefully it will help with what you are doing.

Drafting Out Darts

Irene Q
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Irene Q  Friend of PR
Intermediate
New Hampshire USA
Member since 3/19/04
Posts: 2544
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In reply to Jennalynn


Date: 1/26/08 6:00 PM

You've got a couple of choices -

You can indeed remove the darts. In this tutorial, Debbie Cook shows how to remove a side bust dart in the last couple of steps. There are other ways - but I'll let someone more knowledgeable tell you how.

You can also adjust the darts so that they fit you better. Most of us need to move them around a little, up or down, maybe left or right, and that's pretty easy to do. You'll probably need to do a muslin for the first pattern or two, to really learn what's going on and how you can correct it.

But you may very well need to do a Small Bust Adjustment, the opposite of the Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) that most of us need. In a size 32, the patterns are probably drafted for a C or D cup which could be all wrong for you! Here's one thread that talks about it - you can do a search and find some more.

Jennalynn
Jennalynn
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Member since 9/10/05
Posts: 30
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In reply to Irene Q


Date: 1/26/08 6:18 PM

Thank you so much Irene!

I've been sewing for a long time, but never really took the time to learn the how's and why's. And my clothes showed it ; )

They looked "okay"... but not as good as I'd like them to. Now I want to take that time.

A SBA is just what I need to learn. To get the hips and tummy to fit on a shirt, the bust size is always HUGE... (as are the arms and armholes, but that's for another post!)

Trinity.
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Trinity.
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Massachusetts USA
Member since 10/9/05
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Date: 1/26/08 6:40 PM

Sounds like you would be better off getting a pattern based on your upper bust measurement, and then adjusting the hips and tummy from there.

That'll makes your armholes and sleeves fit better, too.

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Trinity

http://thimblesthreadsandneedles.blogspot.com/

Jennalynn
Jennalynn
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Member since 9/10/05
Posts: 30
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In reply to Trinity.


Date: 1/26/08 7:26 PM

I worry because I would have to adjust it so much.

Even size 24's in plus sizes expect you to have a big chest.

(and I'm a little bigger than a size 32... but there are hardly any patterns in 34 or 36, so I'm already adjusting)

NoraNora

NoraNora
Advanced Beginner
Ohio USA
Member since 11/3/03
Posts: 245
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In reply to Jennalynn


Date: 1/26/08 11:43 PM

I replied to your other question about patterns bigger then a 32, but I think Melissa is right, you need to buy a pattern that's going to fit your shoulders and bust and then adjust the bottom part. I wear a 30/32 in RTW, but thats because I need it for what I have beloqw the waist...I have booty, I have hips and a belly...I got it all (lucky me )
But...when I sew I mostly start with a 26 and add seriously to the bottom. The tops I make fit SOOO much better then RTW.
The only patterns I haven't had to do this with are the patterns by Connie Crawford...and I still have to add some rear booty room for those.
Anyway, it's something to think about!

Nora

Irene Q
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Irene Q  Friend of PR
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New Hampshire USA
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Date: 1/27/08 2:43 PM

Going down a size (or several!) on top will help get the pattern to fit around the neck and shoulders, and will also bring in the arms and armholes. The SBA will remove extra space right in front, from about the center of the armhole down to the bustline. You may need to do both! You would need to use the larger size in the waist and hips, of course. (And you're not the only one around here who needs to do that!!!)

You may like the Connie Crawford patterns. They're drafted for a pear shape, with hips that are 10" larger than the bust. They may work out really well for you.

Weezy
Weezy
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Member since 4/22/05
Posts: 26
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Date: 2/19/09 9:13 PM

I'd like to remove the dratted darts entirely! I prefer to make shirts very sloppy. I'm comfortable and fashion and designers can just get lost. I usually make men's shirts which solve the problem, but now there's some nice looking tunic patterns around that I'd like to play with.
I looked at the removal posted earlier and it was too confusing since I'm not worried about fit.
Thanks,
Weezy

Weezy
Weezy
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Member since 4/22/05
Posts: 26
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Date: 2/19/09 9:34 PM

I noticed that if you just folded the dart, the side seams lined up.
Why do you have to transfer the fullness instead of just deleting it?
Like I said, I make shirts usually a size or two too large.
Weezy

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