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Message Board > Bridal and Formalwear Sewing > Hem on Wedding Dress ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Hem on Wedding Dress
Cody7
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Cody7  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/6/08 9:24 PM

Hi everyone, I have nearly finished my wedding dress or should I say wedding top and skirt and I am confused about the correct technique to hem it. The pattern I am using is Vogue 7963 (the long skirt). The only alteration I have made to this is that I have put a godet in the centre back of the skirt. I have made my outfit in a coffee colour dupion silk and lined it in a similar colour lining fabric. I have been told to bag it and turn it through. That sounds to me like it could be really difficulty and there is a possibility that it may not hang well. I have also been told if I hand stitch it it will look 'home made'. Any opinions you could offer me would be most welcome. .... Julie

BeckyC
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In reply to Cody7


Date: 2/6/08 10:31 PM

A few years ago I made a long black silk dupionni skirt. Here is the review. I did line it with China Silk but it hung separately. I did a Hong Kong Finish on the skirt hem and hand sewed the hem. It is a beautiful hem finish. The Hong Kong finish was made from bias cuts of the China Silk and completely covered the edges of the dupionni which ravels so bad. I think the hem finish looked couture not 'home made'.

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I feed my soul by the stitches I sew.



Cody7
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Date: 2/6/08 11:29 PM

Thanks BeckyC for pointing me in the direction of your review. There are lots of useful tips in it. I like the sound of Hong Kong finish. Your skirt pattern is a very similar look to what I have achieved by inserting the godet. I agree with you that this type of hem would look very couture.

greco
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Date: 2/7/08 7:25 AM

My question would be if when you added/inserted the godet, you did so to incorporate a sweep (often refered to as a small train) to the back of the skirt, or just added more volume.
If you just added volume, then simply cutting all lining pieces shorter while cutting the fashion fabric longer by this difference (if you needed hem length for a higher heeled shoe, test the length of pattern against shoe height before cutting). Sew the hem line together first before doing the waist band. Although this is not the normal procedure, I have found that when using a pattern, this method allows for any minor imperfections in the pattern to be adjusted before doing all the work in the waistband.
It also allows for pressing out the hem at seamline and sewingan internal horsehair all around which may be nice here even with a substancial dupioni silk, if you have a seep added to help keep shaping.
If you did add a sweep, you can still do the same method but some people prefer to only line to the original skirt length and leave the sweep (godet extension) unlined.
I've seen both ways. The first being more couture and professional. If you plan on doing a mini bustle on the sweep/train for dancing at the reception after the ceremony, lining as above will certainly look cleaner if any parts peek out. JF

Speech girl
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In reply to Cody7


Date: 2/7/08 9:25 PM

I have no wedding dress sewing experience, but I don't see an issue with a hand sewn hem. A hand sewn hem should be invisible so I don't see how it would look homemade-- maybe "handmade" or "handcrafted" rather than "mass-produced"
For what it's worth, my MIL does alterations at a dress-shop and handsews hems.

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Kim
formerly mikkim
http://girlwithatimemachine.wordpress.com/

ChrisS
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Date: 2/10/08 10:42 AM

I think a well done hand stitch looks nicer than a machine stitch for hems. I altered my sister's wedding dress and used a blind catchstitch on the hem. I folded the hem under once and machine stitched it. Then folder it over again and catchstiched to hold it under. I think this looked much better than the machine stitch David's but on the dress.

FYI here is a link of hand stitches

Cody7
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In reply to ChrisS


Date: 2/13/08 4:06 AM

Thank you ladies for all of your advice. I will let you know how it all turns out. Keep your fingers crossed for me Julie

rozzybabe
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Date: 3/26/08 9:03 PM

Regarding your hemming problem. Is the dupioni you've used underlined? If so, then sewing the hem by hand to the UNDERLINING only will prevent any stitches showing on the right side. If by chance the lining you've used has been used in the same way as an underlining, then the same idea will work. After doing my first wedding dress as a step into custom bridal sewing, there's no doubt that underlining a fabric is essential, especially if it's a heavier fabric such as satin, etc. Good luck!

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