SIGNUP - FREE Membership and 1 FREE Sewing Lesson
| FAQ | Login
 

Platinum Sponsor
Fashion Fabrics Club
Fashion Fabrics Club

Forum > Fitting Woes > Wavy zipper on bias skirt ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Wavy zipper on bias skirt
kaneshansley
kaneshansley
Intermediate
Member since 7/19/06
Posts: 69
Send Message

      



Date: 2/10/08 9:19 AM

Hi, everyone,

I was doing a little Saturday sewing and finished up a skirt that I've made two of now, and both have the same problem.

The pattern calls for the skirt to be cut on the bias and while the rest of the skirt looks great, the zipper is all puckered and wavy. The other side seam is a little wavy but not nearly as bad as the zipper. I have to assume this is because of the bias cut? Does anyone know how to fix this? If it can't be fixed the only other option is to wear a top long enough to cover the zipper.

Thanks in advance on any advice,

Karen

PhyllisC
starstarstarstar
PhyllisC
Advanced
Massachusetts USA
Member since 8/2/02
Posts: 2005
Send Message

      



In reply to kaneshansley


Date: 2/10/08 9:32 AM

Correct - this is happening because the fabric is bias cut. It's always a good idea to use a strip of fusible knit interfacing (cut on grain so it won't stretch) to stabilize a zipper opening, even on non-bias fabric.

So you could take out the zipper, add the interfacing, and then replace the zipper, and the waviness should disappear.

Phyllis

------
Sewing = Fashion
http://coudremode.com/

Luck happens when preparation meets opportunity.

kaneshansley
kaneshansley
Intermediate
Member since 7/19/06
Posts: 69
Send Message

      



In reply to PhyllisC


Date: 2/10/08 12:04 PM

Thanks, Phyllis. I'll try your suggestion. Someone also suggested letting it hang for a day, I forgot you're supposed to do that with bias cut fabric.

Karen

BeeJ
BeeJ  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Pennsylvania USA
Member since 1/30/06
Posts: 137
Send Message

      



Date: 2/10/08 7:42 PM

ExpertVillage.com has short videos on zipper installation. You might want to check them out. I also agree that using a strip of interfacing will help to keep the fabric from stretching. Hope this helps.

SewN2it
SewN2it
Advanced
California USA
Member since 3/4/08
Posts: 2
Send Message

      



Date: 3/7/08 3:07 AM

I agree with PhyllisC's suggestions, and would like to add a couple more tips... Stay-stitch the zipper insert area before installing zipper or cutting on the bias. Remember that bias cut fabrics can stretch every time you touch/move the fabric; limit handling before you are able to stay-stitch and/or fuse a stabilizer. Make sure you are using the appropriate weight of stabilizer for your fashion fabric and the desired drape. Purchase a zipper longer than the length required for the project; this will limit stretching your fabric to ensure the zipper/fabric match up. Hang your bias project for 24 hours+, making sure that the waist and hem are parallel to the floor.

Hope this helps, (a bit after the event, but good tips for future project).

------
Keep Calm and Sew On!

greco
greco
Expert/Couture
Alabama USA
Member since 8/7/07
Posts: 371
Send Message

      



Date: 3/7/08 8:19 AM

I have found that using a stabilizer for the zipper area on a bias cut garment does nothing more than stabilize the area for the time you apply the zipper. After a bit of time, true to form, the more the garment hangs, the more the seams and areas of weight (ie, the zipper area) will begin to disfigure themselves. Hence, while using a stabilizer does allow for a neat zipper application, typically you will soon find the same drooping begin, but now it starts where the stabilizer has ended causing a shorter point at the zipper seam than the rest of the garment that has "relaxed".
Since I work with primarily formalwear (sheers and light weight fabrics), when I'm making a bias cut garment, I actually sew the zipper area closed in a larger stitched seam (do not press the seam open), and let it hang for a couple of days. Then I pull the thread to release the seam and then sew in the zipper.
The weight the seam provides as it hangs, gives it a more "real weight drag" and thereby a more realistic property with which to apply the zipper. I do also turn the garment and sew each side with the same foot so that the feed/pressure is the same for both sides. Another important consideration is to make sure your feed dog and foot pressure are equal when working with bias cuts and that you are cognizant of the pressure of your own hand in assisting the textile in the process. Even the slightest tugging, pushing or pulling can and will affect the end result. On occassion (typically with a charmeuse) I may hand baste in a zipper if the design has 2 or more areas that require matching up seamlines or patterns. For this textile I baste in mid way to the zippers width, close the zipper and check for accuracy then open and apply a second row of basting stitches closer to the teeth, close and check again. If all is well I'll go ahead and sew. Hope some of this helps. JF

French.Seam
starstarstar
French.Seam
Intermediate
International UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 12/10/07
Posts: 26
Send Message

      



Subject: why don't they tell you? Date: 3/28/08 9:46 AM

I am so mad! I also have a wavy zipper on a bias cut skirt. Why oh why don't the pattern instructions tell you to stabilise ?
You just go ahead with the instructions as given, and your garment turns out rubbish. Countless metres of fabric get wasted because patterns don't give sufficient information. I for one would sew much more, and buy more fabric, if my garments turned out good enough to wear.

purpleivy
purpleivy
Beginner
Alabama UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 11/2/07
Posts: 5
Send Message

      



Date: 9/20/11 1:28 PM

So if you unpick and add stabiliser, do you have to try and shrink the seam back to original size, or just stabilise as it is and replace the zip?

maryfrana
starstar
maryfrana  Friend of PR
Intermediate
California USA
Member since 3/20/04
Posts: 410
Send Message

      



Date: 9/20/11 3:15 PM

I have used steam a seam (1/2") on the zipper opening, both sides and then hand stitched (hand picked) the zip into bias openings. It seems to work, as you can "take up" a little more of the fabric as you stitch to keep it from drooping. Hard to explain, much easier to do.

Lena Merrin
star
Lena Merrin
Expert/Couture
AUSTRALIA
Member since 2/5/09
Posts: 584
Send Message

      



Date: 9/20/11 7:44 PM

The zip lays flat if you ease the fabric slightly under it as you sew it in

------
www.iconicpatterns.com

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview

printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Fitting Woes >> Wavy zipper on bias skirt

 
adv. search»
pattern | machine | member
        
Serging Ahead with your 5 Thread Serger
Serging Ahead with your 5 Thread Serger

Register

Understanding Wool Fabrics
Understanding Wool Fabrics

Register

StyleArc Ada Knit Top

photo
by: ChristmasH...

Review
Sewing Workshop Helix Tee and Pants

Sewing Workshop Helix Tee and Pants

Buy Now
Jamie Christina Palooza Apron Pattern (JC309PA)

Jamie Christina Palooza Apron Pattern (JC309PA)

Buy Now

Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Shipping Rates | Returns & Refunds | Contact Us | About | New To PR | Advertising

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.