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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > B4790 Retro wrap dress re-design

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B4790 Retro wrap dress re-design
Concerns and how to redraft a more narrow A-line skirt
causticmuse
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causticmuse
Intermediate
FL USA
Member since 12/2/06
Posts: 18
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Date: 2/13/08 9:08 PM

I'm hoping to get some advice and suggestions on a re-design idea I had for the popular retro B4790 1950's wrap dress. I think the wrap around design is incredibly clever, but the actual look of the dress on a real person...well, let's just say that my shoulders are wide enough from working out already without the help of the original design's wide circular neckline and what I call its Hideously Unflattering Shoulder Flaps. As much as I admire the engineering behind the design, I would never, ever wear it if I made it up as is. It doesn't fit my style or wardrobe needs, and it would frankly look terrible on me.

This is what I would like to do instead:



And here is how I think it would be done based on the original diagram:


I would be using a red poly jacquard for the front and a stable but drapy black knit jersey for the back and long skirt, with contrasting bias tape around the entire thing, a Mandarin style slit or keyhole opening in the front neckline to allow my head to fit through, and frog closures at the neck and waist.

My questions are:

1. How do I draft a new skirt pattern from the circle skirt of the original? Should I just do it from scratch?

2. Will the shorter front and longer back design cause the dress to drag backwards from the weight, or would the front closure at the waist balance this out?

Any other tips, suggestions, or observations welcome!
-- Edited on 2/13/08 9:12 PM --

------
~ Maggie

Blog: http://maggiewang.com
Art: http://magyss.com

didda
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didda
Intermediate
Member since 3/17/07
Posts: 419
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Date: 2/13/08 10:35 PM

i am too tired right now to think about how to answer your questions. my brain is overextended from weeks of stress. (i am taking a short vacation starting friday) i would advise that you be sure to measure the armscyes of the original pattern, as they have been consistently too large per almost all the reviews and my own experience.

BUT . . . i LOVE your redesign! i am looking forward to seeing the finished garment.

------
Fabric Fast 2008 - YTD Totals
Disallowed Yards Purchased: 12 1/2
Allowed Yards Purchased: 9 (to complete a garment)
3 (for having sewn 30 yards)
Yards Sewn: 43.500
Items Made: 21

Lady_Mame
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Lady_Mame
Intermediate
WA USA
Member since 3/11/07
Posts: 2074
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Date: 2/13/08 10:59 PM

I think the design you've drawn is too flared in the back to look like your concept design, but not by much. I think a more bell-shaped (tulip shaped?) curve would work better.

Secondly, I think you could counteract the weight of the back by weighing the hem of the front skirt and adding a grosgrain interior waistband to the back bodice. This will make the fabric of the overskirt fall from the ribbon, not the shoulders. There is an article in the "retro" threads issue that covers this technique. Very cool sewing concept, that I think could do a lot to make this design 'crisp'.

Otherwise, like the design-- good luck!

------
Needle Needle Straight and Slim, Dust and Sweep the House for Him! --Grimm Fairy Tales

causticmuse
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causticmuse
Intermediate
FL USA
Member since 12/2/06
Posts: 18
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In reply to didda


Date: 2/13/08 11:48 PM

Quote: didda
i would advise that you be sure to measure the armscyes of the original pattern, as they have been consistently too large per almost all the reviews and my own experience.



BUT . . . i LOVE your redesign! i am looking forward to seeing the finished garment.

Thanks for the warning. I was sort of worried about the arm openings anyway due to the halter modification I want to make to the design. I think that this will definitely call for a muslin!

------
~ Maggie

Blog: http://maggiewang.com
Art: http://magyss.com

causticmuse
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causticmuse
Intermediate
FL USA
Member since 12/2/06
Posts: 18
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In reply to Lady_Mame


Date: 2/13/08 11:53 PM

Quote: Lady_Mame
I think the design you've drawn is too flared in the back to look like your concept design, but not by much. I think a more bell-shaped (tulip shaped?) curve would work better.



Secondly, I think you could counteract the weight of the back by weighing the hem of the front skirt and adding a grosgrain interior waistband to the back bodice. This will make the fabric of the overskirt fall from the ribbon, not the shoulders. There is an article in the "retro" threads issue that covers this technique. Very cool sewing concept, that I think could do a lot to make this design 'crisp'.



Otherwise, like the design-- good luck!

Hmm...I think you are right about the width of the skirt. I don't really want the width at the hem to be any more than 60". For one thing, I don't have THAT much fabric, and for the other...I want this to be relatively sleek.

The grosgrain waistband is a great idea! My sister installed one in my strapless wedding gown after we discovered that bustling it caused the back of the dress to drag down from the weight. I'll take a look at how she did it and make sure to emulate it in this dress once I'm ready to put it together.

I guess this won't be quite as easy to throw on as the original.

------
~ Maggie

Blog: http://maggiewang.com
Art: http://magyss.com

cindy-lou
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cindy-lou
Intermediate
NC USA
Member since 7/21/06
Posts: 3642
Board Moderator
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In reply to causticmuse


Date: 2/14/08 7:41 AM

Maggie, I have nothing to add, escept that I LOVE your design! Sweet with an edge.

Oh-- and that grosgrain ribbon stay idea really works.

Good luck and post pics PLEASE!

------
Cindy Lou, no more than 2
"Sew, Esmerelda! Sew like the Wind!" -Martin Short, The Three Amigos
"When inspiration calls, you don't send it to voicemail." --Will I Am.

causticmuse
star
causticmuse
Intermediate
FL USA
Member since 12/2/06
Posts: 18
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In reply to cindy-lou


Date: 2/14/08 4:34 PM

Quote: cindy-lou
Good luck and post pics PLEASE!

Count on it...when I have time to work on this! My wardrobe contest items keep calling me!

------
~ Maggie

Blog: http://maggiewang.com
Art: http://magyss.com

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