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Forum > Patterns and Notions > Which company makes the best pants pattern for my figure? ( Moderated by Sharon1952)

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Which company makes the best pants pattern for my figure?
artkat
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artkat
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Date: 4/6/08 3:42 PM

I need to make a pair of trousers for work so they need to be reasonably dressy but with simple (fairly classic) lines. ( can't be bothered with welt pockets, fancy waistbands etc. I keep hearing about the burda crotch curve but I suspect it may not be as good on me. Lots of the reviews that rave about it are from pear shaped ladies and I am definitely not one. My figure shape is size 16 bust with a FBA (DD), size 16 waist and 14 hips. As you can see I am top heavy and carry all my weight in my upper half. I also have a flat butt and skinny legs. RTW tend to be very baggy on my upper thigh. Can anyone recommend a pattern that has worked on this type of figure. I can get all the big 4 patterns, Burda, Kwiksew and have some Ottobre and BWOF here in NZ

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Kathy
New Plymouth, New Zealand

Skye
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In reply to artkat


Date: 4/6/08 4:57 PM

I like Burda - I have 30" waist and 40" hip with flat butt -I draft a size 12 and pivot and slide to get the hip and waist fit.
Having said I have recently tried SimplicityThreads 4135 cut and sewed a size 14 and did fish-eye alteration to remove the fabric under the back-side Like the fit but the leg is quite wide so I need to run them in. Another simplicity threads pattern 4366 - I have just bought too and pretty much same as 4135 but with leg width options. I like the construction in these pants. First pair I eliminated the pockets and didn't do a sew on fly 'cause I didn't want to fiddle too much with something that might not fit. Like the centre back seam constructed like mens trousers.

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Wellington, NZ

Perfect Fit

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In reply to artkat


Date: 4/6/08 5:22 PM

Artkat, If you find such a pattern do share it on this board. I have to make a flat butt alteration and have found that the commercial patterns all seem to be drafted for the same full butt. If you can figure out your personal alteration set for one pattern- I think you will find that your alterations for any of the others will be very similiar. I have only used big 4 patterns and cannot speak to the independents.

Fictionfan
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In reply to artkat


Date: 4/6/08 6:36 PM

You just need to know the changes that you need to make to get any standardized pattern to fit your body. Your best bet is to get a fitting shell pattern, such as Vogue 1003, make it out of some gingham fabric, then use it figure out the changes you need to make to get the best fit. The patterns come with instructions for checking the fit and how to make the shell work for your body. You then make the same adjustments to whatever pattern you use in the future, regardless of company, because you use your shell pattern to check the fit of the fashion pattern. After a while, you won't need to use the shell pattern to check because most changes will be the same ones, like adjusting for high hip by 1/2 inch or lowering the waist front by 3/4 inch or carving out the crotch curves.

Fitting shell patterns are not multi-size. Since you have waist and bust at size 16, I'd pick the size 16 pattern and figure out the adjustments for the hip area, because the patterns with tops and bottoms will be easier to use if you have most of the pattern fitting. Usually, the details for pants are in the waist, so most people will choose their waist size and fit from there, and some of the adjustments you make for pants do need to be made for dresses or skirts, too.

But you could pick the shell pattern size for your hips, too. For thin thighs and flat bottom, it might be a better fit for you to choose the hip size and make the waist bigger, which might make the thigh adjustments easier since a common adjustment is to narrow the whole back leg width or take out the back thigh inseam width and adjust the crotch curve (then make sure the waist still fits...). With the current fashion for low-waist pants, the hip measurement would make a more sense.

Either way will work, but the problems you will have with any pants pattern will be about the same no matter what company you choose. Rather than do battle time and time again trying to find the perfect pants pattern, find the solution that works for your figure for every pattern.

That said, some people with the flat bottom figure have raved about the Hot Patterns L-shaped crotch curve in discussions on this site. I'd give the link, but I don't know how. Someone recently said they found the same sort of L-shape on McCalls 5632. You might try that one, though the L-crotch curve is not going to be found on all the other McCall's patterns. But you could copy it, if it fits you....

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Fictionfan

nancy2001
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In reply to artkat


Date: 4/6/08 6:53 PM

Artkat, you might want to invest $25 in Wild Ginger's Click & Sew Pants software program, which provides a pattern for basic pants based on your measurements. My rear is flat, and I found the pattern to be very good good.

Also you might want to get hold of the excellent book,
Pants for Real People, by Palmer Pletsch.
-- Edited on 4/6/08 6:58 PM --

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No sewing project is ever a complete success nor a total failure.

LauraTS
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LauraTS
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Date: 4/6/08 8:30 PM

I've also heard from others that have a flat seat (not me, hardly) that Sandra Betzina's Vogue patterns are good for that shape.

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Vivienne
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Date: 4/6/08 9:33 PM

I'm in the top heavy arse-less apple camp and can say that Vogue patterns in general have worked pretty well for me.

I've tried the Burda pants a few times and they were exactly wrong.

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Cheap fabrics, like cheap shoes, are a false economy.

lilyofthevalley
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lilyofthevalley
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In reply to artkat


Date: 4/6/08 9:40 PM

Quote: artkat
My figure shape is size 16 bust with a FBA (DD), size 16 waist and 14 hips. As you can see I am top heavy and carry all my weight in my upper half. I also have a flat butt and skinny legs. RTW tend to be very baggy on my upper thigh. Can anyone recommend a pattern that has worked on this type of figure. I can get all the big 4 patterns, Burda, Kwiksew and have some Ottobre and BWOF here in NZ

artkat,
My figure sounds pretty darned close to yours, including the flat butt and skinny legs.

Burda works perfectly for me and all I need alter is to 'straighten out' the hip curve on the outside seam between waist and knee. IOW, I remove the outer hip/thigh curve, making the pant leg much straighter to fit my no-thigh skinner legs. --Lily

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Lily

diane s
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In reply to nancy2001


Date: 4/7/08 1:11 AM

I also had good luck with Click and Sew, the software has a place to note if you have a flat rear.

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My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

JudyP
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Date: 4/8/08 8:24 AM

Try the Vogue Today's Fit by Sandra Betzina. I have a flat rear, no waist and thinner legs. I usually cut a 20 at the waist, a 16 at the hips and 14 in the legs. These patterns seem to work well for me. V2948 V2913

Judy

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judyp

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