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Silk habotai/China silk
Better than Ambiance Bemberg rayon lining?
Christina Sonja
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Christina Sonja  Friend of PR
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Washington USA
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Date: 4/29/08 3:40 PM

So... I have a coat, and a lining for it, both constructed and sitting around my sewing room for some time, but haven't sewn them together yet. Just got distracted by other things, but now that the weather is warming up, I really want to finish it (it's more of a warm weather coat than a cold weather coat).

The coat is made of a cotton blend matellase (or something like it, I'm not really sure) - a textured cotton with metallic threads running through it. The fabric is allegedly from Nicole Miller, and was on the pricier side...

I made the lining with Ambience Bemberg rayon.

Now I have this idea in my head that maybe I should use something "nicer" for the lining. Like silk habotai/china silk. Something nice but not crazy expensive. I've never used habotai before, so I'm wondering, is it "nicer" then Ambience? Would it be worth the switch? I find Ambience difficult to handle when sewing, is habotai any easier? If not, I'll probably just stick with the Ambience lining.

Thoughts?

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Christina
www.assortednotions.com

Twinset
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Twinset  Friend of PR
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Quebec Canada
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In reply to Christina Sonja


Date: 4/29/08 4:08 PM

Hi,

I don't know what is the weight of your coat fabric, but here is what I know about China silk/habotai.

Of course, it is really nice as a lining. I use it a lot to line delicate garments, like camis, semi sheer cotton voile, silk chiffon dresses, etc. But, it is much lighter in weight than Bemberg rayon (well, here we call it Bemberg, not 'Ambience', but I assume it's the same thing) so I don't know if it would work for a coat since I haven't seen your fabric. To figure out the weight, China silk weighs 8 mm; if you want a comparison, charmeuse silk usually weighs 18-19 mm, stretch charmeuse 20 mm, silk chiffon 8 mm. So, there is definitely a difference in weight with the Bemberg.

If it's a coat you will wear a lot, if it was me, I would probably be afraid that it could tear with wear in the underarm area or show signs of wear in the elbow area. I recently made a lightweight wool jacket and I had great results with a silk/cotton blend fabric for the lining. It is still lightweight and supple, but a bit heavier than China silk and probably stronger too.

Hope this helps!

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http://www.jazz-couture.blogspot.com/
Before joining PR: 1 sewing machine
Since joining PR: 6 sewing machines, kilometers of stash and tons of fun

blue mooney
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blue mooney
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Date: 4/29/08 6:03 PM

China Silk is my favorite lining for many things because it feels so great next to the skin, but I wouldn't use it in a coat unless it's a very, very lightweight coat. My 2 cents: if you want a silk lining, go with something heavier than china silk.

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--Robyn
sewing blog: http://bluemooney.wordpress.com/
illustration blog: http://storybooky.wordpress.com/

Marji
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Marji
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Missouri USA
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Date: 4/29/08 7:43 PM

I agree with Robyn and Jazzbird, silk habotai is my favorite lining for dresses and light garments, but I wouldn't line a jacket or coat with it.
(I used silk habotai to line this dress, which is made from a matelasse that is shot through with metallic threads).

For a coat lining I just purchased some tie silk, aka silk twill. A heavier bemberg rayon is also a good lining for coats - I'll have to find the brand names. For a coat that isn't going to get a lot of heavy wear Ambiance will be ok, but if you plan to give it a lot of wear, the Ambiance may not hold up well either. It's a fairly lightweight Bemberg rayon.

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Marji
http://fiberartsafloat.blogspot.com

Christina Sonja
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Christina Sonja  Friend of PR
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Washington USA
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Date: 4/29/08 8:44 PM

Nice dress Marji!

Maybe the fabric I have is jacquard? Anyway, it's a coat that I won't wear much. Just evenings if dressed up, that sort of thing. But, I'm hoping it'll last me for years, so I'll keep looking instead of using the Ambience lining. And I'll give up on the china silk idea.

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Christina
www.assortednotions.com

Marji
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Marji
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Date: 4/29/08 9:52 PM

for nice jacket and coat linings a good source are menswear tailors. Check out B Black and Sons linings

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Marji
http://fiberartsafloat.blogspot.com

Twinset
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Twinset  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/30/08 12:15 PM

Christina,

I ran into this this morning. It says 'It feels like silk habotai but wears like iron.' Maybe something interesting? Description says it is used by high end RTW designers. Available in black, pure white and ivory.

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http://www.jazz-couture.blogspot.com/
Before joining PR: 1 sewing machine
Since joining PR: 6 sewing machines, kilometers of stash and tons of fun

Christina Sonja
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Christina Sonja  Friend of PR
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Washington USA
Member since 7/2/06
Posts: 342
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In reply to Twinset


Date: 4/30/08 5:39 PM

You know I was eyeing that very lining several days ago just for general purposes... Maybe I should get a few yards, and if it doesn't work the for coat I can always use it for something else. If it's good enough for high-end designers, it's good enough for me! Thanks for sharing that.

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Christina
www.assortednotions.com

Loey
Loey
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South Carolina USA
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In reply to Christina Sonja


Date: 7/19/08 11:20 AM

i much prefer Bemberg Ambiance over China silk. of course by now your project is probably finished, but the Bemberg wears better and seems to be more comfortable to wear.

Loey

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Loey in SC

Heidi Cooper
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Heidi Cooper  Friend of PR
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In reply to Christina Sonja


Date: 7/19/08 1:50 PM

I adore silk habotai, BUT ~ it has terrible issues with seam slippage Really not a good thing for a coat/jacket or something that will get a lot of stress on the seams.

It is also a bit of a PITA to work with as it is very grain sensitive and floaty, two things that don't play well together

That being said, it is tamable and you can get some amazing looks with it. Remember, it's not just for linings!

heidi

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“Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever.” -Mahatma Gandhi
“ Freedom is not worth having if it does not include the freedom to make mistakes.” -Mahatma Gandhi

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