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Best seam finish for casual jacket?
FirecrackerKTM
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FirecrackerKTM
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Date: 5/23/08 8:54 PM

I'm making this jacket in a lime green linen-look fabric.

What is the best seam finish? Should I just pink or zig zag the seam allowances? Or should I zig-zag them and then topstitch along on either side of the seam (a RTW shirt I like is made that way)? I don't know about flat-felling, the jacket has princess seams and I don't want to make the seam up the front look weird over the curved part.

Elaray
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Elaray
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In reply to FirecrackerKTM


Date: 5/23/08 9:08 PM

Nancywin posted a tutorial on the Hong Kong finish. That's what I would use.
-- Edited on 5/23/08 9:11 PM --
-- Edited on 5/23/08 9:11 PM --

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tashainflorence
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tashainflorence  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/24/08 2:06 AM

I too have a casual jacket that I'd like to finish the seams in a nice way. My questions is:

What is the differnece between a Hong Kong finish and just using a strip of single or double-fold bias tape to enclose the seam? Are they the same but the HK finish has a fancy name or is it something to do with the construction?

Thanks

fiberfan
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fiberfan
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In reply to tashainflorence


Date: 5/24/08 4:57 AM

Quote:
What is the differnece between a Hong Kong finish and just using a strip of single or double-fold bias tape to enclose the seam?

With a Hong Knog the raw edge of the bias isn't folded under on the the side of the seam that doesn't show.

Joanne

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Elaine Dougan
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Elaine Dougan  Friend of PR
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In reply to FirecrackerKTM


Date: 5/24/08 8:29 AM

I am looking forward to your review of this jacket as I just bought the pattern. I could not find a review for it here. Perhaps you will be the first one to write about it.

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Elaine

Patti B
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Patti B  Friend of PR
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In reply to FirecrackerKTM


Date: 5/24/08 9:45 AM

Quote: FirecrackerKTM

What is the best seam finish? Should I just pink or zig zag the seam allowances? Or should I zig-zag them and then topstitch along on either side of the seam (a RTW shirt I like is made that way)?

I think the Hong Kong finish would be great too but I really like the look of the double topstitching. We'll be looking for your review!

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Patti

R-r-r-ripping my way to fitting success

Fictionfan
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Date: 5/24/08 6:42 PM

I think this jacket is lined? Unless your fabric is really ravelly or you are leaving out the lining, you can get away without finishing the seams most of the time if you want to just skip that part. Of course, I don't follow my own advice because I always finish the seam edges before I even start construction since I've serged everything straight from the cutting table for the last 20 years, without really thinking about the issue in any depth. But there are experts who have cheated on the finish-the-seams rule and written to tell about it.

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Fictionfan

FirecrackerKTM
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FirecrackerKTM
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Date: 5/25/08 5:32 PM

Only the sleeves are lined. The seams inside from the princess seaming do show. I don't have enough left of my lining or a bias tape that matches, so I think I am going to zigzag and topstitch.

I don't always (OK, rarely) finish seams but I am trying to be better about the details.

I have the jacket finished, but it turned out a little odd around the collar. I have another cut out because I was going to make it in 2 colors, and I was more meticulous about markings and such on the 2nd one, so I hope it will turn out better. It has a dart along the collar and I am not sure I did it right. I don't really like it, but I am not sure I want to leave it out.

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