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Yet another FBA question...
What do do with the giant dart?
Kim12469
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Kim12469
Beginner
Montana USA
Member since 3/27/08
Posts: 2344
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Date: 6/19/08 10:04 AM

So, I have to do a fairly substantial FBA on wovens which I am still trying to "get." I have a 5-6 inch difference in my High bust vs. bust measurement so I end up with a large dart. I know you normally don't clip out the darts but in this case should I? It has so much bulk, especially in places I don't need any extra bulk.

I think I have more in this bodice than I should have b/c I cut one size too big still. I did the 16 for my waist but I probably should have done the 14 and let out a bit for the waist. If it matters, it's NL6674

Still learning!
Thanks,
Kim

------
http://kimsewsilly.blogspot.com/

patti r
patti r
Member since 5/30/08
Posts: 5
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In reply to Kim12469


Date: 6/19/08 12:02 PM

Check out the post by "Debbie Cook"she has several suggestions for FBA.
It is listed close to your post.

Or go to the Library and get a few alteration books with pictures.

I am a big fan of Visual aides.


michellep74
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michellep74  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Washington USA
Member since 7/19/07
Posts: 2977
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In reply to Kim12469


Date: 6/19/08 12:48 PM

Hi Kimmy,

I've been dealing with this issue myself. If you check out the "wonky darts" thread in the "Fitting Woes" suggestion, you'll find a lot of suggestions. A quick summary, though:

A) If you're trying to salvage something that you've already sewn, you can clip out the excess dart fabric and then finish the raw edge with a serger or overlock stitch.

B) For future projects, you can try doing a Y-style FBA. Palmer/Pletsch recommend using this style if you're doing an FBA larger than 1.5". It's a nice option because the bust dart ends up a bit smaller than using a traditional FFRP FBA.

C) If the bust dart is still too big, you can rotate the excess into another dart, such as a waist dart. Since NL6674 already has a waist dart, this is probably a good option for this particular pattern.

HTH...

-- Edited on 6/19/08 12:50 PM --

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--Michelle

***
Blog: http://happilycaffeinated.blogspot.com/

2014 Fabric IN: 153.13 yards
2014 Fabric OUT: 88 yards
2014 Fabric Sewn: 38 yards
2014 Fabric Donated: 50 yards
pre-2014 Stash patterns used in 2014: 7

Kim12469
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Kim12469
Beginner
Montana USA
Member since 3/27/08
Posts: 2344
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Date: 6/19/08 1:23 PM

Thanks Michelle! When the illustration says, "Greater than 1.5 inches" where do they mean? Is that the distance that you would have to fill in if you did the other type of FBA? Or do they mean the size of the dart you would get?

At the widest part, my dart under the arm is 1.5 inches. On the silky blouse I did, it didn't matter too much but this fabric is heavier.

I have read nearly all the information on the thread about FBA's but sometimes I get information overload and it's hard to sift. I do have some books and have looked up even more stuff online.

I will probably just cut this out then and finish. The next time I will try the Y-shaped technique. Thanks again!

How is your shirt coming?

------
http://kimsewsilly.blogspot.com/

Kim12469
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Kim12469
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Montana USA
Member since 3/27/08
Posts: 2344
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Date: 6/19/08 1:25 PM

I just reread the tutorial and think I answered my own question....

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http://kimsewsilly.blogspot.com/

michellep74
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michellep74  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Washington USA
Member since 7/19/07
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In reply to Kim12469


Date: 6/19/08 2:04 PM

Thanks for asking!After fixing the waist darts in the second muslin, it's looking pretty good. There's a night and day difference between the first muslin and how the second one looks now... I'm hoping to complete the "real" version this weekend.

I completely understand about the information overload! I think it helps if you just take it one adjustment at a time. Once you get the FBA down solidly, any other fit adjustments that you make will come fairly easily.

------
--Michelle

***
Blog: http://happilycaffeinated.blogspot.com/

2014 Fabric IN: 153.13 yards
2014 Fabric OUT: 88 yards
2014 Fabric Sewn: 38 yards
2014 Fabric Donated: 50 yards
pre-2014 Stash patterns used in 2014: 7

Christine B
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Christine B  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Maine USA
Member since 6/7/05
Posts: 235
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In reply to michellep74


Date: 6/20/08 7:46 AM

Quote: michellep74
I think it helps if you just take it one adjustment at a time. Once you get the FBA down solidly, any other fit adjustments that you make will come fairly easily.

I totally agree - if I don't break it down and do the adjustments separately, there's a high probability that I'll mess something up (and have a heckuva time figuring out what went wrong! )

------
''The best-dressed woman is one whose clothes wouldn't look too strange in the country.'' - Sir Hardy Amies

mollyshark

mollyshark  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Texas USA
Member since 5/30/04
Posts: 19
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In reply to Christine B


Date: 6/24/08 8:27 PM

I have a similar situation. High bust 34, bust 38, nonexistent shoulders. Wear a 36DD. Am making a standard shirt and did the FBA and sewed the giant dart which is fine. But the front bodice darts were fairly obliterated by the spread and patch in there. Is there a scientific method for getting these back or do you just estimate it, baste it in, and try it on?

Debbie Cook
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Debbie Cook
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In reply to mollyshark


Date: 6/24/08 9:35 PM

Quote: mollyshark
or do you just estimate it, baste it in, and try it on?

That's what I do for every garment with front and/or back waist darts. If I'm on top of things, I may actually note the final position on the pattern for the next time, but it's more likely that I won't and I'll have to pin/baste again. It's pretty fast and easy so I don't mind too much. I'd rather have them right.

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--
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com

Sherril Miller
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Sherril Miller  Friend of PR
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In reply to Debbie Cook


Date: 6/25/08 9:40 AM

Quote: Debbie Cook
I may actually note the final position on the pattern for the next time, but it's more likely that I won't and I'll have to pin/baste again. It's pretty fast and easy so I don't mind too much. I'd rather have them right.

Actually it probably works out better to do the next one on a different fabric again. The hand and drape of the fabric might have the fabric looser or closer to your body and that would make the dart needs different.

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Visit my blog at http://sewingsaga.blogspot.com

If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL

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