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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Construction steps

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Construction steps
BeeBeeSew
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BeeBeeSew
Advanced Beginner
MD USA
Member since 12/13/07
Posts: 826
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Date: 6/26/08 11:13 AM

I have a very simple (for sleeping) tshirt cut out - knit. It's 5 pieces: front, back, 2 sleeves and neckline. I've made this before and been unhappy with the finishing on the garment and am thinking of changing the order of construction.
Would I get the same (or better?)answer with:
One shoulder,
Neck band with seam at the other shoulder
other shoulder
Sleeves (on the flat)
Sides and inside of sleeve
I think I'm just doing the neckband on the flat and the sleeves on the flat, but I'm afraid I'm missing something. Not following directions is both uncharted territory for me sewing-wise, and contrary to my very nature
Or is this just wrong?

Deb Thompson
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Deb Thompson
Intermediate
AB CANADA
Member since 7/8/05
Posts: 307
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Date: 6/26/08 11:21 AM

What was it about the finished garment did you not like the last time...it might not be the order of construction that's the problem. Are you using a ballpoint needle and the proper stitch? I threw out every knit garment I made cause they looked so stretched and crappy until I learned what a HUGE impact the right needle and stitch makes!

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Deborah Thompson
www.debthompsoncollection.com

EveS
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EveS  Friend of PR
Intermediate
MI USA
Member since 11/26/06
Posts: 2701

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Date: 6/26/08 12:33 PM

I do sew in my sleeves flat for a lot of knits (esp. this type) but I usually prefer the neckbinding to be at the back, not the shoulder. Is it the neckline you're not pleased with? If so, I urge you to drop everything and watch this Threads tutorial and also the one linked within that page. It will teach you a no-fail technique for attaching a neckbinding on a knit that will literally save your neck!

HTH!!
Eve

------
People who say it cannot be done should not interrupt those who are doing it - Chinese proverb

salruss
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salruss  Friend of PR
Intermediate
LA USA
Member since 6/16/07
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Date: 6/26/08 12:36 PM

On almost all my tee-shirts, I sew:

1. Shoulders
2. Neckband
3. Sleeves in flat
4. Hem in Sleeves
5. Side seams from hem to end of sleeve
6. hem in garment.

This usually works for me.

------
www.sallinda.blogspot.com

BeeBeeSew
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BeeBeeSew
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MD USA
Member since 12/13/07
Posts: 826
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In reply to EveS


Date: 6/26/08 3:33 PM

my first knit neckband turned out beautifully. All the rest are bleck.. They stretch, I have trouble making the seams straight along the neckline, the top stitching is wonky, and I end up with a lump at the seam. I was thinking that, by putting the neckline seam at the shoulder seam I'd end up with only one lump and it would be a continuation of the shoulder seam already there.
I think I've seen the Thread's Tutorial - I will watch again reguarless - and yeah, they sure make it look easy.
And my hems? We don't want to go there.
General knit question: if I stretch to sew how "hard" to I pull. And how to I compesate for that narrowing for the seam allowance? (meaning, if I let it feed at 5/8" it's 5/8", but if I stretch it, the allowance changes and my seams are even less straight)

EveS
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EveS  Friend of PR
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In reply to BeeBeeSew


Date: 6/26/08 4:04 PM

I would call it more of a gentle stretch than a "pull," IOW, not very much. And this should ONLY be done on your stress seams. Do not stretch at ALL when hemming or topstitching (this could be part of your problem). In fact, you should guide your fabric thru very evenly w/ NO drag for this type of stitching (one hand on either side of the presser foot helps). I use my walking foot religiously for knit hems and topstitching, too...wouldn't do it w/o it. Another trick I use sometimes is Steam a Seam (permanent) or Wash Away Wonder Tape (washes out) on my hems before I stitch. This helps the fabric behave some, too. Try it on scrap fabric to see if you like it.

Do you press your seams after you hem, etc? A lot of times you'll still have some minor waves w/ these techniques, but typically a gentle pressing will straighten them out.

Oh, and BTW, that tutorial IS easy. Do try it, following step by step. I haven't had it fail me yet.

Eve

------
People who say it cannot be done should not interrupt those who are doing it - Chinese proverb

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