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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Where do make the fba on this top

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Where do make the fba on this top
princess seam with dart on front pattern piece
snowey

snowey  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
AL USA
Member since 8/14/06
Posts: 32
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Date: 7/12/08 9:02 AM

I am using vogue pattern 8505 8505 and it has a dart and bust point is on the front pattern piece. Should I do the fba adjustment on the front or the side front? Kinda confused.

------
Sheila

Marji
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Marji
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MO USA
Member since 9/19/06
Posts: 1866
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Date: 7/12/08 9:35 AM

I'd say it depends on how much of an FBA you need to make.
If you work the pattern draft backwards in your mind it may help you to see where the FBA should be made.

When you lay your pattern pieces out flat, adjacent to each other, you see that a typical princess seam is nothing more than two darts that connect, one that begins at the waist and is a vertical dart, one that emanates from the armscye, and they meet at the bust point.
In this case, the pattern draft started with a standard horizontal bust dart, and then some of the shaping was rotated to an armscye dart that was angled slightly to the side, keeping the remainder of the bust dart intact.
If you just have to add a small FBA - say for a C cup, I'd be tempted to add it to the princess seam and just check the height on the horizontal bust dart to make sure it's in the right place.
If you have a larger FBA to make, I'd begin by making the FBA the way you would for a regular bodice
see diagram here Except, instead of making the hinge point the armscye, I'd make the hinge point the typical dart origination point on the side seam, and then add to the "dart" that was created by the princess seam in the pattern drafted by Vogue.
My step one would be to trace out both side front and front pieces, then cut off the seam allowances.
2. put the side front next to the front along the seam lines so that you can see how much of the dart shaping is in the princess line emanating from the armscye.
3. tape those sections together then treat as one pattern piece while making the fba,
4. cut the pattern pieces back apart and retrace, adding back your seam allowances.

Hope this is clear.
Marji

------
Marji
http://fiberartsafloat.blogspot.com

snowey

snowey  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
AL USA
Member since 8/14/06
Posts: 32
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Date: 7/12/08 10:21 AM

I need a 1 1/4" fba and I have lower the bust pointclick here . I think I understand how to make these adjustments. I will work on it this afternoon. Thanks.

------
Sheila

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