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Forum > Fitting Woes > How to lower the armhole? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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How to lower the armhole?
Charlene McGill

Charlene McGill
Intermediate
USA
Member since 3/15/06
Posts: 14
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Date: 7/13/08 0:26 AM

I have very large upper arms and previously I maded a blouse that had two darts. As part of my fitting process for the arms, one of the steps I did was to cut and spread 1/2" across the chest. By doing this, I had to move my darts up by that same 1/2". I'm planning to make a jacket (Butterick 4818) that have two darts also. I want to know, how to eliminate cutting and spreading the bodice and moving the darts back up by the amount of the spread? I know there is another way to lower the armhole. Howerver, I can't remember where I read it. Any help would be appreciated. Below is a picture of how I'm currently lowering the armhole.
Click Here

-- Edited on 7/13/08 0:31 AM --
-- Edited on 7/13/08 0:43 AM --

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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New York USA
Member since 12/28/04
Posts: 8272
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In reply to Charlene McGill


Date: 7/13/08 9:31 AM

This is a fine way to do it, but remember that you need to also do the same thing to the back and to the sleeve cap.
If you just have a little to lower you can do it on the sleeve and armhole which don't effect the bust darts or shaping.

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

Charlene McGill

Charlene McGill
Intermediate
USA
Member since 3/15/06
Posts: 14
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In reply to Nancy K


Date: 7/13/08 12:16 PM

I'm sorry! I did lower the back and sleeve by the same amount I just didn't show those pictures. I wanted to know if there was another way to do it so I wouldn't have to move my darts in the future. It would eliminate that step.

Debbie Cook
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Debbie Cook
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Date: 7/13/08 12:22 PM

Do you need that extra length anywhere else other than the armhole? If not, you can just redraw the bottom of the armhole lower, front and back (adjusting the sleeve as well, which you've already done).

If you do need that length, the way you're doing it is what you need to do. But, I'm wondering if you do need that length, if you also need an FBA (if you haven't done one).

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"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." Gilda Radner
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Charlene McGill

Charlene McGill
Intermediate
USA
Member since 3/15/06
Posts: 14
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In reply to Debbie Cook


Date: 7/14/08 1:19 AM

I'm short so I want always need the extra length. It's a personal preference depending on the style of the blouse. Therefore, I was looking for another method when I didn't need the extra length.

These are the changes I made:
1. Lengthen the pattern by 2" (Front and Back)

2. Made adjustments for my sloping shoulders (Thread DVD method)

3. FBA (2") and attempted to do a SBA (1") but was not successful. (FFRP and reading your blog)

4.Cut and spread patten pieces (front, back and sleeve) by 1/2" to accommodate my large arms.

5. Moved the darts back up by that 1/2"

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