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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Correct Way to Petite a Pattern?

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Correct Way to Petite a Pattern?
It sounds simple enough but...
harpazo hope

harpazo hope
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UT USA
Member since 6/5/08
Posts: 157
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Date: 7/22/08 8:41 AM

Hello,

I am having troubles getting McCall's 5378 to fit. I started a thread in the fitting forum and have recieved wonderful help. But, I'm retracing my steps and re-reading Belinda's advice again to see what I did wrong. Here is what she said:

Quote:
2. the bodice is too long for you. You need to petite it. It needs to be shortened at the mid-armhole and again between the bust and waist. The armholes are too low and the bust shaping/darts is also too low. This means you need to petite at mid-armhole. As the waist seam is way too low you will probably need to shorten an additional amount just above the waist. Going down a size will help with the length but only a small amount.


I only have one petite line on the pattern, and it is at the bottom of the bodice. Being the chicken that I am, I only shortened it there. So, now I'm going back and trying this again.

What I would like to know is, what is a reasonable amount to alter a patterns length at the armhole? I know that I should just look in the mirror and take a guess, but it would make me feel a lot more comfortable to know how you all do it. The armhole feels too tight without shortening it, so this also makes me all the more chicken to mess with it. It's just a muslin, but I'm getting sick of cutting this pattern out.

What am I going to do about attatching the bias binding after? Do I have to shorten it the same amount I shorten the bodice at the armhole? Will the circles for the shoulder seam still line up?

And should I be using the bust darts as a guide as to how much I shorten?

Sorry for so many questions. I feel like such a helpless baby. Should this be moved to the Beginner's forum? I just don't want to mess up anymore. I want my dress!

Thanks!
Em's Summer
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Em's Summer
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In reply to harpazo hope


Date: 7/22/08 11:59 AM


How is the dart? Does it end where it's supposed to?

Em
-- Edited on 10/19/08 2:29 PM --

------
From what others have said, the nasty message came from Fitting Woes, NOT Misc Hot Topics or the Civility thread.

Em's Summer
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Em's Summer
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Date: 7/22/08 12:11 PM

Deleted another redundant post.

-- Edited on 10/19/08 3:39 PM --

------
From what others have said, the nasty message came from Fitting Woes, NOT Misc Hot Topics or the Civility thread.

harpazo hope

harpazo hope
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UT USA
Member since 6/5/08
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In reply to Em's Summer


Date: 7/22/08 12:18 PM

Quote: Em's Summer

How is the dart? Does it end where it's supposed to?



HTH,

Em



It depends on the bra. I know I should have a good fitting bra when deciding on alterations...but I don't. Maybe some day I can sew one.

Ok... I think I'll leave the armhole alone. I think I messed up asking for advice before putting the binding on the armholes. They feel like they are digging into my arm when I move.

Thank you for your help once again, Em!
EleanorSews
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In reply to harpazo hope


Date: 7/22/08 12:36 PM

Keep in mind that when you put the binding on, you will be removing a seam allowance from the armholw (not know what the pattern has you doing, I am guessing it would be anywhere from 1/4" to 5/8") and that would open up your armhole a bit.

------
"We don't see things as they are, we see them as we are." Anais Nin

"Attitude is the difference between an adventure and an ordeal." unknown

harpazo hope

harpazo hope
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UT USA
Member since 6/5/08
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Date: 7/22/08 12:55 PM

I am doing McCall's 5378, and it fits great in the armholes until I add the binding. I don't think the armholes look to long. I have pictures here:
My Webpage

I shortened the bodice 1 inch. I think I may have done too much. Or maybe my hunch was correct and I don't have a waist.

I really have no clue what the problem is. Maybe shortening would even help the problem? All I know is that I don't like the way it feels on, and I'm sick of trying to figure it out.

Sewing Jane
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In reply to harpazo hope


Date: 7/22/08 1:14 PM

I know how frustrating it is trying to fit yourself. I am still working on my fit issues. Do you have Fit for Real People? It is the best fitting book, I think. Looking at your white muslin dress, it doesn't look as tho the neck in the back is coming up to your neck. Measure your back neck length and compare it to the pattern back length. Follow in FFRP for a high round back as they suggest fitting the back first. Good luck and don't give up.

Em's Summer
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In reply to harpazo hope


Date: 7/22/08 1:15 PM

Deleted redundant post.
-- Edited on 10/19/08 3:38 PM --

------
From what others have said, the nasty message came from Fitting Woes, NOT Misc Hot Topics or the Civility thread.

Christine B
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In reply to harpazo hope


Date: 7/22/08 1:34 PM

Quote: harpazo hope
The armhole feels too tight without shortening it, so this also makes me all the more chicken to mess with it. It's just a muslin, but I'm getting sick of cutting this pattern out.

Just a suggestion, but something that's been very helpful for me in fitting the armhole on my muslins is to cut the seam allowances off entirely. It gives a much better visual of where the shoulder ends, and how deep the armhole is, than if you were to try and imagine how it would look/feel with 5/8'' removed. (This really only works with sleeveless garments, though - if you're putting a sleeve on, you'd need to leave the seam allowances in place, or cut another muslin once you've fitted the rest of the bodice.)

------
''The best-dressed woman is one whose clothes wouldn't look too strange in the country.'' - Sir Hardy Amies

harpazo hope

harpazo hope
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UT USA
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Posts: 157
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In reply to Christine B


Date: 7/22/08 1:43 PM

Quote: Christine B

Just a suggestion, but something that's been very helpful for me in fitting the armhole on my muslins is to cut the seam allowances off entirely. It gives a much better visual of where the shoulder ends, and how deep the armhole is, than if you were to try and imagine how it would look/feel with 5/8'' removed. (This really only works with sleeveless garments, though - if you're putting a sleeve on, you'd need to leave the seam allowances in place, or cut another muslin once you've fitted the rest of the bodice.)




I think from now on I will go one step farther and completely finish the armhole. This experience has completely frustrated me. I was even told to finish the sleeve. I thought what sleeve? It's sleeveless, but the advice was repeated. Now I see the wisdom in their post. You would think with the 5/8" off the armhole it would feel more free, not more constricting. I was OK with the muslin's armhole with the seam alowance. Maybe I put the binding on wrong?

I'll get this some year... For now I'm going to try a size smaller to try and get the armhole off my arm. Maybe it's not tight but just rubbing.

So sorry to ramble on about my armhole... It really was just a post about petite alterations!

Off to ramble to myself.
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