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Message Board > Bridal and Formalwear Sewing > sewing foundation with buckram? ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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sewing foundation with buckram?
edupraz
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edupraz
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Date: 7/27/08 8:17 PM

I'm getting started on sewing my wedding dress -- I have the muslin all done, and I'm beginning to work on the final version of the foundation now. The dress will have off-shoulder cap sleeves, so I thought it would be important to have a good foundation so the sleeves wouldn't sag.

Several seamstresses I know recommended that I use buckram as a stiffener, and sure enough, when I looked at the Vogue Fabrics website, they had buckram listed in their corset making supplies. I ordered some online, but now that I have it out and am cutting it out, I can't imagine how I'm going to sew with it -- it is so stiff, and I know it will not fold over into the seam allowances and lay flat.

Does anyone have experience sewing with buckram (aside from hat brims and handbags)? Am I just doomed/crazy/misinformed here -- should I use some other kind of stiffener?

Thanks for your help!
Emily

newlywedws
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newlywedws
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Date: 7/27/08 9:32 PM

When I was making a hat, I was first pointed to a "buckram" and I questioned the choice, b/c it wasn't stiff. I realised that the first "buckram" was actually more suitable to wedding garments, such as crinolines, in that it was durable, yet flexible and not at all stiff.

Perhaps instead of buckram you may want to get a medium weight crinoline material instead, b/c the buckram (if it's the weight that I think it is, you won't have much luck sewing w/ it b/c it's more suited to hotglue).

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Elona
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In reply to edupraz


Date: 7/27/08 10:53 PM

I trust you have already digested all the info in Susan Khalje's Bridal Couture?

Lots of good information on foundations in there!

Nancy L

Nancy L
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Date: 7/27/08 11:32 PM

Maybe the buckram is only for the sleeves part?

newlywedws
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newlywedws
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Date: 7/28/08 0:01 AM

Would you mind providing your pattern info for the dress you plan on making for a better visual on the sleeves?

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newlywedws.blogspot.com

USMC BRAT turned USAF wife.

A veteran is someone who, at one point in his life wrote a blank check made payable to 'The United States of America ' for an amount of 'up to and including my life.' That is Honor, and there are way too many people in this country who no longer understand it.



The day we lose our will to fight is the day we lose our freedom!



www.myspace.com/usaffamily

Franniedb67
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In reply to newlywedws


Date: 7/28/08 4:27 AM

I don't know how your pattern suggests accomplishing the sewing, but try whip stitching the buckram into place using short stitches with a doubled thread strengthened with beeswax (you can buy the bees wax in the notions dept.). If you are using the heavier type buckram, it will cut the single thread after a few stitches.

Sew'n'go
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Sew'n'go
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Date: 7/28/08 7:37 AM

If I'm reading your dress "history" correctly, Emily, you are wanting to make the foundation (corselette) out of buckram. That would be a horrible fabric to have next to your skin!

A much better fabric is coutil. It's a strong, tightly woven cotton, and it's the fabric corsets are made from. It has enough "oomph" to hold your sleeves and support the rest of the dress. Instead of lacing the corset, you can put a zipper in it.

You can buy coutil at stores that sell corset supplies like Farthingales and Vogue. (NAYY)

Boning will help make your foundation bodice sturdier. There's rigelene (the plastic boning you can sew through - not the other kind!), or for even more support, spiral steel boning.

Happy sewing!

Tory

edupraz
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edupraz
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Date: 7/28/08 11:56 AM

Thanks for all of your help, everyone!

I think I've discovered that I do, in fact, have the wrong kind of buckram. I'm going to call Vogue Fabrics to check, but I noticed they have a different kind of buckram also for sale. And, I may end up taking the suggestion to skip the buckram altogether and get coutil instead.

(btw, I was planning to put this foundation inside the lining of the dress so everything inside is neat and tidy, and so that I can have glorious silk habotai next to my skin!)

In any case, I'll let you all know how I progress.

Sew'n'go
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Date: 7/28/08 12:30 PM

When is the wedding?

edupraz
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edupraz
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In reply to Sew'n'go


Date: 7/28/08 1:31 PM

The wedding is October 11, so I still have time, but not terribly much time.

By the way, after thinking about it (and reading more), I think I'm just going to use muslin underlined with silk organza. I figure I can't go wrong with that for now, and if I think I need more support later, I can always change my mind!

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