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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Back neck gap

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Back neck gap
JTink
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JTink
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VA USA
Member since 4/20/08
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Date: 8/6/08 1:57 PM

I'm working on the Butterick 3389 view C. I find that the back of the neck gaps, as though it's just too big. My first inclination is to make a dart in the tissue at the neck. Upon doing this, I will have to true up the center back. This will add the removed portion back to the neck that I just took off. How do I stop the gap, without shifting the entire patten out of focus? I've done this sort of thing before and just forced the tissue to do what I want, when cutting out the material. But there has to be a better way.

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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NY USA
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In reply to JTink


Date: 8/6/08 2:22 PM

A picture would help here. There are several reasons for the neck gaping. Forward neck would do it as well as a rounded upper back. These have different solutions.

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3KillerBs
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3KillerBs
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NC USA
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In reply to JTink


Date: 8/6/08 2:55 PM

Many people do need a dart in the back to fit the neck correctly.

If you go down to the back sloper section here: http://vintagesewing.info/1940s/42-mpd/mpd-02.html#controlback you'll find ways to deal with it.

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3KB

"The combination of physical strength and moral sincerity combined with tenderness of heart is exactly what is wanted in a husband." Amelia Peabody Emerson

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to 3KillerBs


Date: 8/6/08 5:27 PM

I wish I could post a picture, but I don't know how to do that. I tried to pull up this website and it's said an error was found. So many of the adjustments are for rounded back or some such thing. I just find that there is too much width in the back neck area. I need to pinch a bit in. If I make a dart on the pattern piece, it throws the entire upper portion of the bodice off kilter. Would it be possible to just lay the pattern piece a little off of the fabric, at the neck edge when cutting?

Lis K

Lis K
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OH USA
Member since 3/31/08
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Date: 8/6/08 9:08 PM

I usually have the same problem and a neck dart makes a huge difference. Way back when, all home sewing patterns came with a neck dart, so I don't know why they did away with them. I would also suggest that you have someone take an accurate measurement across your upper back, middle back and also measure your neck. Check to see how your pattern differs and remove from the pattern. There are many authors (Sandra Betzina) who can explain adjustments.

JTink
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JTink
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VA USA
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In reply to Lis K


Date: 8/7/08 8:22 AM

Thanks so much. I'm going to start scouting out some different "how to" books. FFRP is OK, but it just goes off the deep end sometimes. There are occasions when I only have to pinch a little here and there. FFRP is fine for major adjustments. But I've found with their examples, if you tweak one thing you have to start adjusting everything! By the way, I'm glad you suggested Sandra Betzina. I just loved watching her on Sew Perfect. She easy to watch, aways had great tips and did what I call REAL sewing. I really miss that show.

CarolynD
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CarolynD
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NJ USA
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Date: 4/24/13 9:54 PM

Responding to this question 5 years later....

I think I do have slightly more square shoulders than the standard body type that patterns are designed for. You wouldn't think that to look at me but it seems to be a recurring problem. On my muslin I tried making neck darts but everything looked so puffy back there. Then I got the idea to square up the shoulders. By doing so, only by 1/4" from the outer seam towards the neck, I got rid of the neck gape. This drew the fabric up and now the neck area looks perfect.

threaddy
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threaddy  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/24/13 11:01 PM

I am developing a bit of a rounded neck area as I age...ugh! and have found putting in a small dart on each side of center...takes care of it. If you do one dart it does not distribute the necessary change properly.

------
"The problem is not that there are problems. The problem is expecting otherwise and thinking that having problems is a problem." Theodore Rubin
"Life isn't about finding yourself. Life's about creating yourself." George Bernard Shaw
Dan 9:24-27

Bernina vintage and computerized, Bernina and BL sergers , BLcoverstitch (a stray Pfaff and Viking followed me home too)

JTink
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JTink
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Date: 10/11/13 2:05 PM

I'm revisiting this topic. I need to dart out some fullness in the back neck of a pattern. I know can draw in darts and make them a "design feature" on the garment itself, but I really don't want the darts sitting on my neck. How do I transfer this adjustment to the pattern piece?

Would I make an L cut (as in a narrow shoulder adjustment)bringing the lower portion of the "L" to the back center seam? This garment has a back center seam. Would I just cut a bit off the center back seam at the top of the neck?

LauraTS
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LauraTS  Friend of PR
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CA USA
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Date: 10/11/13 2:54 PM

If it has a CB seam I'd take it out there. Alternatively, if its not much you can gather it to the neckband or facing, kind of like easing in a sleeve.

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