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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > "Nehru-ish" Jacket for DH

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"Nehru-ish" Jacket for DH
Which of these patterns easiest to modify?
Sanibelle
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Sanibelle  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/5/08 12:15 PM

DH is letting me sew him a jacket. I thought it would be a simple project: We're using boiled wool and it won't have any interfacing or lining. His old boiled wool jacket just has narrow woven tape stitched around the armholes and along the shoulders. We're thinking of using some petersham ribbon on the interior. Sounds uncomplicated!

But he has a very definite idea of what it should look like: slim-fitting with a standing collar. (He likes the look of the Nehru jacket from the 1960s.) And this is where I think I'm in over my head. Any pattern we go with will have to undergo substantial alterations to meet his wishes and I'm feeling a bit overwhelmed at the moment, unsure if I'm up to the task.

I'd appreciate any thoughts on the following patterns:

I already have Simplicity 5386.


(Sorry that I don't have a better photo. It has princess seams and an overlapping banded collar.)

It is r-e-a-l-l-y fitted. I don't know if I can add enough ease without messing up the neck and shoulder area and my biggest problem with it is: How would I get rid of the flared seams? The front princess seams fall from the shoulder and narrow in towards the waist and then flare out down from there. Could I just straighten out the curves, or would that somehow negatively affect the drape of the garment?

I'm worried that the more adjustments that need to be made to the pattern, the greater the chances are of my messing it up.

Another possibility is Butterick 6844.




But it also flares out. And I can't tell from the technical drawing how full the actual pattern is.

I've also been looking at Burda 8135, view B.




But it has a zipper. DH is very firm about wanting buttons (which he'll be sewing ). I don't have experience with these types of design changes, so I don't know if it's as simple as just extending the center front seams a couple of inches to allow for buttons and replacing the large collar it has with a Nehru or mandarin type. The technical drawing shows a seam at the neckline.

I want to make something that he'll really love -- that looks just like what he wants (and that he won't feel embarrassed to wear out of the house ). Thanks for any advice you might have!

SheBear0320
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SheBear0320  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/5/08 1:42 PM

I have an old Simplicity pattern which I think is what you are looking for -- it's not on the Simplicity site.

The pattern number is 8808 and it's copyright date is 1999 -- don't know if that will help you find a copy. If you like I can scan the line drawing and try to post it.




-- Edited on 9/5/08 1:44 PM --

------
Sheila
"sewing very slowly to fill an empty closet"

2014 Stash Busting Sew-Along:
27.5 yards sewn (as of 04/17/14)
20.125 yards purchased (as of 04/17/14)

Sanibelle
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Sanibelle  Friend of PR
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In reply to SheBear0320


Date: 9/5/08 2:41 PM

Sheila, thanks to your tip, I've learned a new trick!

After reading your comment, I googled and googled to try to turn up an image of the pattern, with no luck. It seems someone on Etsy had this pattern for sale at one time, but the page is no longer there. Then, just by chance, I noticed the "cached" button on the google listing. I clicked it and, voila, the old page is visible! I've never noticed that on google!

Is this the pattern you're referring to? Thank you so much for pointing it out. My list of OOP jacket patterns is growing longer! I check vintage patterns sites from time to time, but I haven't had much luck. So far, my best hope seems to be adapting a current pattern. I'm trying to talk DH into the Burda....

SheBear0320
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In reply to Sanibelle


Date: 9/5/08 4:05 PM

This is the pattern I am referring to -- I've actually made it a couple of times and it has gone together really nicely. Both times I made it, high school boys were the recipients -- they wore it for high school prom. If I remember correctly I made a few changes to one of the jackets but kept the main style lines.

I'll let you know if I see the pattern anywhere for sale.

------
Sheila
"sewing very slowly to fill an empty closet"

2014 Stash Busting Sew-Along:
27.5 yards sewn (as of 04/17/14)
20.125 yards purchased (as of 04/17/14)

Vintage Joan
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Vintage Joan
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In reply to Sanibelle


Date: 9/5/08 5:02 PM

Burda 7704 is new, I think -- it might work. If you wanted, you could leave off the fussy bits.

There's also a simple Nehru-style Burda men's jacket, but unfortunately it went OOP recently. If you can find it, it's pretty great -- Burda 8273:


-- Edited on 9/5/08 6:14 PM --

------
my shield and my very great reward ~ Gen. 15:1

Photo: A long time ago

zora
zora
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Date: 9/6/08 8:28 AM

Another vintage pattern you should have a look at is McCalls 9484

Sanibelle
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Sanibelle  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/6/08 9:49 AM

Thanks Sheila!

Joan, thank you for posting the photos. DH had looked at those patterns previously and nixed them. I think he wasn’t able to get past the traditional style and envision something more modern. (We live in a region where this style is worn. His old jacket that we're replacing is actually a traditional Giesswein, but now he's hooked on the idea of a Nehru-style jacket. )

I showed the patterns to him again, thanks to your post, and now he might be more amenable to 7704. The neckline falls a bit too low and he wouldn't want the pleat. It's also designed for a lighter weight fabric than the one he's chosen, so I might have to allow for a bit more ease. But this one might work!

He isn't crazy about the wide cut or low neckline of 8273, so it's just as well that it's OOP. But I was really surprised that they took it out of their line! It's such a classic. A search on the Burda site doesn't turn up the pattern anymore, but searching via google gives a link back to the Burda site where it's supposedly still for sale.

I think I'm putting a lot of pressure on myself because, up until now, DH's only let me sew boxer shorts, long underwear and a pullover for him, and I'm flattered that he wants me to sew him a jacket. I'm going to try to not be so neurotic about it!

Hi zora! Actually, that's the white whale DH's hunting for (DH's Capt Ahab reference. )! I have an ad in the classifieds here for that pattern, along with a similar one from Simplicity.

Thanks everyone so much for your suggestions. DH appreciates it, too.

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