Member since 8/1/07
Skill: Advanced Beginner
Date: 9/6/08 12:31 PM
Does anyone have any experience with altering patterns for a high bust? I've been working on fitting my garments and in doing so I've come to the conclusion that I'm petite on top and hugemongous on bottom (Ok, perhaps an exaggeration :winkgrin:). I'm taller (5'8"), but short waisted and in fitting bodices recently, I realized my shoulder seam - to- bustpoint length is at least an inch shorter than most patterns. Is there a correct method of alteration for this? It makes my shirts look too large, and then I usually end up just taking in the shoulder seam an extra inch or so. Or does it sound like my sizing is wrong? I try to sew based on my high bust measurement, but in button-downs it becomes too small in the chest (need to learn an FBA too... one step at a time). Any help (or reference to a book, etc.) is appreciated. Thanks!
Member since 9/3/06
Date: 9/6/08 1:55 PM
I learned from the Palmer/Pletsch books Fit & Jackets for Real People. Its the easiest method I found. Try on your tissue pattern and mark your bustpoint. Remove the pattern, lay it out and then draw a box around the dart including the patterns original bust point, cut it out and raise until the two marks overlap..Tape into place and fill the hole with extra
tissue. Once you've done it its easy.. I hope this explanation is understandable.
I've had to raise every pattern by about an inch or more. It does make a big difference in the fit and you may not have to alter anything else. What I find really interesting is that I do this with mcCalls, Simplicity, Buttereick & Burda. Vogue fits right out of the envelope--So much for the standardized figure. I sew a lot of Vogue.
Hope this helps..good luck
2012 86.3 yds..
Everyone who sews seriously has a stockpile of fabrics, because it is natural to purchase more than can be sewn in any one season" Singer, Timesaving Sewing, 1987
New Hampshire USA
Member since 3/19/04
Date: 9/7/08 12:41 PM
There are a couple of ways you can raise the bustpoint. As jannw said, you can simply move the dart or the bust shaping up. With a dart, you may just want to move the end point of the dart up and then redraw the legs.
If your patterns are actually too long between the shoulder and the underarm, which would also make the bust too low, you can try removing the extra length in the upper chest. Just fold out an inch across the entire chest, about half way between the shoulder and the underarm. You need to make the same alteration to the back, and to the sleeve caps. If your underarms always seem too low, this would be worth a try (and is a better solution than taking up the shoulder seams). But if the underarms seem to be in the right place, then just move the bust point. Or maybe you can try a little of both.
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