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Forum > Fabrics and more... > Hair canvas ?! ( Moderated by CynthiaSue)

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Hair canvas ?!
can I substitute...
newlywedws
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newlywedws
Intermediate
Florida USA
Member since 10/4/06
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Date: 9/8/08 12:29 PM

I'm getting ready to start sewing Vogue 2836 it's calling for stuff I've never heard of before - like "hair canvas" which is listed as interfacing...well the lady at the fabric store said they didn't have any, so I bought something else called "shirtmaker" which feels like a "crisp" interfacing. I've never sewn any sort of mens garments, let alone a suit...will I be able to get away w/ using this shirtmaker stuff

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Michelle L
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Michelle L
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Missouri USA
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In reply to newlywedws


Date: 9/8/08 12:37 PM

You can get it where you get tailoring supplies. "Hymo" is a brand name. Try B. Black and Sons. They have an online store.

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Michelle

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Pinkytoo
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Pinkytoo
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Nevada USA
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In reply to newlywedws


Date: 9/8/08 12:42 PM

Hair canvas is definitely more than a crisp interfacing. Keep searching around for actual hair canvas, because you are going to need it for a suit to keep the front under the lapels from sagging or wrinkling.

You might also want to check out my favorite link, "tips from an Armani jacket" (it's in the knowledge base). it has a picture of what hair canvas looks like and how it's used.

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Sewing is my therapy!

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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New York USA
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In reply to newlywedws


Date: 9/8/08 1:48 PM

I expect that you can substitute fusibles for the hair canvas. But, I know nothing about men's tailoring. There are blogs by tailors making bespoke suits for men. Google for mens tailoring. Hymo is the way to go if you want to use the directions and there various wts and quality. Greeenberg and Hammer also has a good selection.

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Elona
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Elona  Friend of PR
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In reply to newlywedws


Date: 9/8/08 3:25 PM

Oh, boy, this is one area where you want to get exactly what the pattern calls for! There are several different weights of hair canvas, and they are used in different parts of suit construction because of the way they make the suit fabric drape or roll. It is indeed possible to use fusibles, but it's best to really know what you're doing when you choose them, too.

You're heard the derogatory expression "....a cheap suit"? Well, that's exactly what all your hard work in making a suit will result in if you take shortcuts, especially if you're a newbie at tailoring.

I'd suggest phoning or writing thesewingplace.com and asking them about their tailor's interfacing here.

ryansmumAria
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ryansmumAria
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Date: 9/8/08 4:00 PM

I've used alot of hair canvas and I was so disappointed when Joann's stopped carrying it. However, you could substitutes with a rather heavy interfacing as that is what hair canvas has become. I'm quite fastidious so I would want to see exactly what the weight/hand of hair canvas is, if I were in your situation of needing it and not having seen it before.
Good luck.

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Ambimom
Ambimom
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In reply to newlywedws


Date: 9/9/08 8:41 AM

Don't substitute. I've done tailoring in my time and it must be exact. You can get hair canvas from JoAnn's online
JoAnns

Hair canvas is woven. Most interfacing is not. The canvas will help your garment drape correctly while maintaining the crispness.

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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New York USA
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Date: 9/9/08 8:59 AM

There are several levels of hair canvas by haircanvas
You'll notice the difference in percentages of hair, wool and cotton.

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Tom P
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Tom P  Friend of PR
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In reply to newlywedws


Date: 9/9/08 11:19 AM

There are fusible types of haircanvas also. Anna Zapp has a good description of how to use it in a suit. It's for women, but it seems directly applicable to men's.

I assume the pattern calls for hair canvas that is sewn in and padstitched to the underside of the lapel. I would go ahead and do it, but I would be sure to get another good reference on how to put this together. Cabrera's book "Classical Tailoring Techniques" is really good.

Another source that has these things is Atlanta Thread Supply. Their undercollar canvas is really good and quite reasonable. As I recall, their hymo is all a heavier weight. I would recommend B Black and Sons, as they have a big selection of haircanvases.

JuliaS
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JuliaS
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Utah USA
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Date: 9/9/08 1:44 PM

I've used the heavy-ish Hymo hair canvas from Atlanta Thread Supply as a waistband interfacing on contour waistbands, and all I have to say is prepare yourself for some weird smelling stuff when you steam it. Is that what a goat smells like? :)

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