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Forum > Fitting Woes > Still searching for the perfect pants ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Still searching for the perfect pants
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FirecrackerKTM
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FirecrackerKTM
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Date: 9/18/08 10:24 AM

I've discovered, through a recent jeans shopping excursion, that I really do have an extremely short waist. The lower rise pants really do fit better; even a medium rise looks like it's too long in the crotch area on me. That goes for both RTW and handmade.

I've tried shortening pants in the front with little success. I have the Fast Fit book, and it only says "shorten crotch curve." Well, where, and by how much????

I have decided to try combining the top part of pants I KNOW fit well, with the leg shape of other pants. For instance I have a wonderful pattern that fits nearly perfectly but it's a wide-leg style. So theoretically I could morph that pattern into another one just below the tush, right?

EleanorSews
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In reply to FirecrackerKTM


Date: 9/18/08 10:40 AM

That would be the theory. Run a test muslin.

If you have something that fits thru to the crotch, you ought to be able to draw the legs any way you want them to be. Just try to stick with the original grain lline.

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"We don't see things as they are, we see them as we are." Anais Nin

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FirecrackerKTM
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FirecrackerKTM
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Date: 9/18/08 11:18 AM

I'd feel more comfortable laying another pattern piece over the leg part than trying to draw it myself ... I need to minimize any possible margin for error.

Why is this so darn hard?

Flying Seamstress
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In reply to FirecrackerKTM


Date: 9/18/08 11:52 AM

Quote: FirecrackerKTM
Why is this so darn hard?

A perfect sentiment IMHO. I too have been working on the perfect pants and just when you think everything is good-to-go, another mystical wrinkle or fold! Finally I have the crotch curve, length, and depth pretty darn close to perfect, now I'm working on the back leg width in the thigh area, trying to decide which type of alteration would be the best...slash & lap or pivot & slide. Decisions, decisions...

I too am puzzled about how to take this pants sloper and translate to other pants styles; sounds like more trial and error on this adventure.

Good luck to you! If you aren't changing the waist to crotch style, you should be able to morph the two patterns together in order to get a different draft on the pants leg. Does sound easy, doesn't it? You CAN do it!

Gail
FirecrackerKTM
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FirecrackerKTM
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Date: 9/18/08 12:41 PM

By "sloper" do you mean something you're working on, or the pattern I have that I like?

LauraTS
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Date: 9/18/08 1:14 PM

If you have or can borrow a copy of the Reader's Digest Guide to Sewing, there's a great section in there with illustrations on lengthening and shortening rise, among other pants measurements. My copy is the 1976 edition, but I would imagine it's still in the newer one as well.

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michellep74
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Date: 9/18/08 1:16 PM

FWIW, I just checked your reviews, and I didn't see any Burda pants listed.

I just finished my first pair of Burda pants and although the pants are a little snug (my fault--not the pattern's), there seems to be a lot less "excess" in the crotch area there than in RTW pants. It might be worth a shot to try a pair...I know that a lot of people here on PR love Burda pants.

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woggy
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In reply to EleanorSews


Date: 9/18/08 1:17 PM

EWP601,

Which grainline? The one on the torso part of the pant or the legs you are copying? And how do you stick to the grainline?

It has been written many times on this board, that when you take in pants to fold the leg in half so seamlines meet, then the same amount is removed inseam and sideseam from ankle to knee.

I have many pant patterns and have folded many of them in half to discover that the grainline is not in the middle of the pant. This is why I am asking the questions above.

Thanks,

Woggy

FirecrackerKTM
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FirecrackerKTM
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Date: 9/18/08 1:39 PM

Burda hm ... I will have to try. Any recommendations for a nice pair of low rise pants with a boot cut leg? So far my 3 best patterns have been Vogue, with a couple Simplicity ones that could have been OK with some work. Oh and a Simplicity Built by Wendy pattern. The size was WAY OFF but the fit was good otherwise.

Karla Kizer
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In reply to woggy


Date: 9/18/08 1:40 PM

The grainline that is drawn on a commercial pattern is not necessarily placed in the center of the pants leg. If that bothers you, fold the pants leg in half and crease it, then draw a line along the crease mark. The line you draw will be parallel to the pattern company's grainline, but will be in a more helpful position. Remember: a grainline simply indicates how the pattern should relate to the fabric you're cutting out. It doesn't necessarily mean it's the center of the pants leg. If I remember my Principles of Geometry class (taught by Mr. Pythagorus), any line you draw that is parallel to the originally marked grainline will also be on grain.

And as for altering pants patterns: the grainline on the legs is what you worry about. The crease (center) of the pants leg should be ongrain. Anything that happens above....oh, say...midthigh shouldn't worry you. I change the angle at which the pants body meets the pants leg all the time. As long as the legs are cut on-grain, the abdomen/butt area will be fine.
-- Edited on 9/18/08 1:54 PM --

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Where are we going, and what am I doing in this handbasket?

Matthew 25:40 (New International Version)
The King will reply, 'I tell you the truth, whatever you did for one of the least of these brothers of mine, you did for me.'



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