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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Sitam Patternmaking System

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Sitam Patternmaking System
sueb@bha
sueb@bha
Intermediate
AUSTRALIA
Member since 3/22/07
Posts: 3
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Date: 10/15/08 3:23 AM

I am from Australia and would like to know if anyone has had any experience with the Sitam Patternmaking system.
Is it reliable? Does it give a good fit? Is it worth the money?
I am tired of trying to adjust every commercial pattern to fit my strangely shaped body and am interested in learning to draft my own. Would I be better off with Kenneth King's CD books and learning to draft from scratch rather than using a 'system'?

Shannon Gifford
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Shannon Gifford
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Georgia USA
Member since 3/20/02
Posts: 419
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In reply to sueb@bha
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Date: 10/15/08 7:56 AM

Would I be better off with Kenneth King's CD books and learning to draft from scratch rather than using a 'system'?

Yes.

A "system" such as Sitam requires specialized equipment such as rulers or calculators or some other calibrated drafting tool. All you need is a tape measure and paper, and muslin to check your work.

There are several books that will help you draft a sloper. Connie Crawford and Helen Joseph-Armstrong both have books available that are comprehensive, but these are textbooks. I personally prefer Allemong's "European Cut", as it is directed to the home sewer.

Be prepared to invest some time in this process. Perfect fit does not happen in an afternoon:)

------
You did make a muslin, didn't you?

Luckylibbet
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Luckylibbet
California USA
Member since 7/28/03
Posts: 1405
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In reply to Shannon Gifford


Date: 10/15/08 2:09 PM

I second Shannon's recommendation of Allemong's European Cut.

It's relatively inexpensive and it is comprehensive as far as drafting slopers goes. You get the whole enchilada, from bust/torso drafts all the way to skirts, pants, and sleeves.

After you have your slopers, you might want to invest in a design book like Helen Joseph-Armstrong to help you translate your vanilla slopers into real garments.

Good luck!

------
Suo ergo maledicto

Your time is limited, so don't waste it living someone else's life. Don't be trapped by dogma - which is living with the results of other people's thinking. Don't let the noise of others' opinions drown out your own inner voice. And most important, have the courage to follow your heart and intuition. They somehow already know what you truly want to become. Everything else is secondary. - Steve Jobs

fiberfan
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fiberfan
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Utah USA
Member since 2/25/06
Posts: 991
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Date: 10/15/08 8:03 PM

You can read Harriet Pepin's Modern Pattern Design online. I have several pattern drafting books and look at Pepin's before going to the bookcase for a hard copy book. I didn't use it for my sloper but instructions for drafting one are included.

I draft almost all my patterns. Instead of spending time altering a commercial pattern, I spend a bit of time drafting a pattern if I don't have one close and then spend a bit more time tweaking the fit. Commercial patterns can be helpful for details like collars. It is pretty easy to morph some details from a commercial pattern with a self-drafted pattern.

Joanne

------
joy and gladness shall be found therein, thanksgiving, and the voice of melody. Isaiah 51:3

so many ideas, so much fiber, so little time
http://fiberfan.blogspot.com

sueb@bha
sueb@bha
Intermediate
AUSTRALIA
Member since 3/22/07
Posts: 3
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Date: 10/22/08 3:20 AM

Thank you all for your advice.

I have tried Kenneth King's Moulage. It wasn't bad at all. I have made a couple of minor adjustments and have to say it is looking good.
I will investigate the books suggested.

Averyl
Averyl
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AUSTRALIA
Member since 6/5/05
Posts: 1
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In reply to sueb@bha <<


Date: 6/26/13 11:28 AM

Go to TAFE and get an AQF respectable training under Skills for All
a Muslin in Australia is a Toile made out of Calico usually
Better books are Winifred Aldrich Metric Pattern Cutting as:
1. size charts correspond better to Austrlia
2. Australia uses Metric not imperial
3. TAFE's in Australia will use them as an assistance reference (not main)
4. Metric is far easier to use than Imperial and its far easier to cacluate mm rather than various fractions of inches
For Fitting and Pattern Alterations books by Pat Fernon

NessyS
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NessyS
Intermediate
AUSTRALIA
Member since 10/15/09
Posts: 15
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In reply to Averyl <<


Date: 12/13/13 9:49 PM

Quote: Averyl
Go to TAFE and get an AQF respectable training under Skills for All

Hey Averyl - I was just wondering about this. Do you mean something along the lines of a certificate course such as "Applied Fashion Design and Technology"? I am very interested in this and wondered if this is what you meant. Sorry to pester you! Any info greatly appreciated!
RynV

RynV
Intermediate
AUSTRALIA
Member since 9/1/08
Posts: 434
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In reply to sueb@bha <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 12/14/13 1:16 AM

I tried the Sitam method and I found it very difficult to get a good fit. I made several toiles and wasn't happy with any of them. Eventually I got my mother - a fitting expert - to have a look. Her professional opinion was that it didn't fit properly anywhere. She made numerous alterations, about as many as she would make on a commercial pattern. This wasn't surprising given that Sitam uses the proportionate method, whereby measurements in one area give you proportionate measurements in another area. All well and good if you're in proportion, which I'm not. If you're going to invest in the system, make sure you have a teacher nearby to steer you in the right direction.

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