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Skipping the shoulder pads on a jacket
How to adjust the pattern
Vintage Joan
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Vintage Joan
Intermediate
Ontario Canada
Member since 7/16/07
Posts: 10778
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Date: 11/7/08 10:27 PM

I asked a similar question early this year, but didn't get quite enough of an answer to make it clear to me.
Today I almost bought this pattern (fabulous-looking jeans pattern hiding in there), but decided against it when I noticed the jacket had shoulder pads. So -- how do I adapt this jacket pattern so that I can skip the shoulder pads? I'm somewhat spatially challenged, so I can't envision how to adapt it.
Thanks!


-- Edited on 11/7/08 10:31 PM --

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my shield and my very great reward ~ Gen. 15:1

Image: me, about four decades ago

Barbara3
Barbara3  Friend of PR
Intermediate
USA
Member since 5/22/06
Posts: 1073
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In reply to Vintage Joan


Date: 11/8/08 2:18 AM

Sometimes it is easier to find another jacket pattern than to adjust one that is intended to have shoulder pads into one that does not. Most of the many sewing books I have suggest that shoulder pads can be important for shape and balance. However, I have adjusted several patterns to work without pads as, like you, I often prefer not to have them.

To begin to visualize how to adapt a pattern with a shoulder pad into one without a pad, try this:

If you have a jacket with a removable shoulder pad, take out the pad and try it on. If you don't have a jacket with a removable pad, use a blouse or dress. If you don't have a garment with a removable shoulder pad, try to do this at a store!

Pinch out the excess height (and length if needed) of the shoulder point to give you a sense of how much fabric would need to be eliminated for the jacket to fit nicely without the pad. The shoulder point will sometimes be both higher and longer to accomodate the pad. Other times, it will only be higher.

In thinking about how this might apply to your new pattern, consider the difference in the thicknesses of the shoulder pads in your garment and the one called for on the new pattern envelope. You'll more or less be subtracting the thickness of the pad by lowering the shoulder point. And you may also be subtracting some length from the shoulder point, depending on whether the pad is intended to extend beyond the shoulder point.

This should help you visualize how to adapt your new jacket pattern. Tissue fit the new jacket pattern pinching out the excess in the same way. Be sure not to just transfer what you observed in the RTW garment to your new pattern, as the two shoulders (and pads) may well differ.

Once you do this a few times, it really isn't difficult. But not all patterns designed for shoulder pads work well without them. You've chosen a really nice pattern - but it may or may not work well without the shoulder pad. Take the time to make up a muslin (not in true muslin fabric though) to make sure you like the shape of the jacket and how it fits without the pad before cutting into your nice fabric. HTH

KathySews
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KathySews
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Michigan USA
Member since 10/1/06
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Date: 11/8/08 9:11 AM

A quick comment for shoulder pads. Forget the 80s linebacker look. I resisted for years because of that look. Shoulder pads as small as 1/4 inch add some very nice shape.

Sanibelle
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Sanibelle  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
International GERMANY
Member since 5/27/03
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In reply to Vintage Joan


Date: 11/8/08 10:24 AM

Clearly in need of coffee, I posted my comment in your previous thread!

Vintage Joan
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Vintage Joan
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Ontario Canada
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In reply to Sanibelle


Date: 11/8/08 10:46 AM

Thanks, everyone! I'm still debating about whether I should use that pattern, but your ideas are very helpful. I was actually thinking of making it as a coat rather than a jacket/blazer, so that's one reason I don't want shoulder pads.
I confess, mostly I wanted that pattern for the great-looking jeans.
I started thinking about making a coat with the jacket pattern partly to justify the cost of the pattern, which is more expensive than most Burda patterns.
Sanibelle, thanks for mentioning coffee (desperately need some myself!) . That link you provided over on the other thread was great! I've bookmarked it. Now for that coffee!

-- Edited on 11/8/08 10:52 AM --

------
my shield and my very great reward ~ Gen. 15:1

Image: me, about four decades ago

Sanibelle
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Sanibelle  Friend of PR
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International GERMANY
Member since 5/27/03
Posts: 734
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In reply to Vintage Joan


Date: 11/9/08 6:01 AM

Quote:
That link...was great!


Els is a treasure -- incredibly generous with her vast knowledge and experience. We're very lucky that she shares it with us.

Good luck with the alterations!
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