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Forum > Beginner's Forum > Stripes aren't an "obvious diagonal fabric"? ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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Stripes aren't an "obvious diagonal fabric"?
fabric mechanics
Hollywood Hills Cookie
Hollywood Hills Cookie
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California USA
Member since 3/21/08
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Date: 11/15/08 4:57 PM

I'm looking at a 1970's shirtwaist pattern (Simplicity E.S.P. 8972) which has an A-line, 4 gored skirt, elasticized waist and blousen top. On the back, it says "Extra fabric needed to match plaids, stripes....do not use obvious diagonal fabrics".

That seems like a contradictory instruction, unless they mean the stripes would only work on the skirt in a horizontal placement? I don't think many people would choose to do that.

Can anyone guess why they're saying that?
-- Edited on 11/15/08 5:03 PM --

Michelle L
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Michelle L
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Missouri USA
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In reply to Hollywood Hills Cookie


Date: 11/15/08 5:05 PM

with the stripes, they probably intend that you would do something like in the image on this pattern, not place them horizontally:

------
Michelle

http://cheapandpicky.blogspot.com/

Hollywood Hills Cookie
Hollywood Hills Cookie
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In reply to Michelle L


Date: 11/15/08 5:09 PM

AHA!

Brilliant!

I wonder what the stripes would look like horizontal, though, and why tha would be such a no-no. Then the stripes would meet in the seams further down on the skirt, I guess. Maybe that would be visually dizzying?

THANKS FOR THE SPEDY RESPONSE :)

Michelle L
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Michelle L
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In reply to Hollywood Hills Cookie


Date: 11/15/08 5:15 PM

You probably shouldn't place them horizontally for a couple of reasons. One, the grain would be going in the opposite direction than you would want it to. Second, keep in mind that the pieces of the skirt are "pie-shaped", so if you cut the stripes horizontal, they aren't going to be horizontal once you sew it together, they are going to look like they curve. Do you really want horizonal stripes curving around your tush?

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Michelle

http://cheapandpicky.blogspot.com/

Hollywood Hills Cookie
Hollywood Hills Cookie
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California USA
Member since 3/21/08
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In reply to Michelle L


Date: 11/15/08 6:48 PM

I'm sorry, I was mixing up "diagonal" and "vertical" in my head, so I was thinking "What would be so wrong with vertical stripes coming together in the skirt seams as the A-line widens, further down?"

That would still be a curious effect, perhaps.

I forgot that "diagonal" doesn't mean up and down, but running through the fabric, slanted in the direction of opposite corner to opposite corner.

Woops.

tlmck3
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tlmck3
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Date: 11/15/08 6:49 PM

What they mean by that instruction is not to use a print that has the repeat or motif printed diagonally across the grain of the fabric--ie: the print direction follows the bias. It's not very commonly done, especially now, but some fabrics are printed that way. It was more common when fabrics were available in 36 inch widths--I have several 36 inch vintage prints printed this way.

I bought several pieces of knits printed this way a couple of years ago. I bought them to use for muslins. They are so wide I have never figured out how someone would match the prints without wasting yards and yards of fabric. In the end, I decided they were probably meant to be used for swimsuits or ice-skating costumes, where a diagonal print across the chest and midriff would be a design element.

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I am going for a level of perfection that is only mine... Most of the pleasure is in getting that last little piece perfect...Inspiration is for amateurs. The rest of us just keep showing up and doing the work.

Chuck Close, painter, printmaker, photographer

Hope has two lovely daughters: Anger and Courage

St. Augustine

Michelle L
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Michelle L
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In reply to Hollywood Hills Cookie


Date: 11/15/08 6:56 PM

Quote: Hollywood Hills Cookie
I'm sorry, I was mixing up "diagonal" and "vertical" in my head, so I was thinking "What would be so wrong with vertical stripes coming together in the skirt seams as the A-line widens, further down?"



That would still be a curious effect, perhaps.



I forgot that "diagonal" doesn't mean up and down, but running through the fabric, slanted in the direction of opposite corner to opposite corner.



Woops.




The vertical stripes are what you see in the image.

Because the skirt pieces are big triangles, the stripes will not extend the full length because they will be cut off by the shape of the pattern piece.

When you sew the pieces together, you get the "chevron" shape like what is shown on the front of the skirt in the image above.

------
Michelle

http://cheapandpicky.blogspot.com/

Hollywood Hills Cookie
Hollywood Hills Cookie
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Date: 11/15/08 8:40 PM

Thanks to both of you. Very educational : )

This Simplicity E.S.P. (Extra-Sure Pattern) looks good for a beginner because the (short lived?) line seems to have been developed for people who needed every little thing spelled out; the instructions look twice as long as usual...yay!

GlButterfly

GlButterfly
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In reply to Hollywood Hills Cookie


Date: 11/15/08 8:53 PM

In a pattern book I saw "not suitable for obvious diagonal fabrics" yet the sketch clearly showed a diagonal, which made me shake my head. Years later I read an article on patterns and the man answering the questions said that so many people were calling them because seams didn't match when they used diagonals, that to prevent that, they added those words to almost every pattern, even the ones where a diagonal could be successfully used. Doesn't help us much, does it?

------
That's Gl = for Gloria, not G. I.

Hollywood Hills Cookie
Hollywood Hills Cookie
Beginner
California USA
Member since 3/21/08
Posts: 59
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In reply to GlButterfly


Date: 11/17/08 3:44 PM

<< so many people were calling them because seams didn't match when they used diagonals, that to prevent that, they added those words to almost every pattern, even the ones where a diagonal could be successfully used. >>

OMG! So what we have here (what YOU have uncovered) amounts to a systematic attempt at the extinction of the diagonal print!!!

Big 4 Treachery!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Now it can be told.

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