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The correct fit for a princess seam
wonky boobs?
Annette Wright
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Annette Wright
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Date: 11/24/08 6:48 PM

How exactly should a princess seam fit? I'm doing one from the armhole?

On the front center piece it shows the marking for the bust apex. Um...mine would actually be sitting on the side front piece.

Yet I need to do a FBA, and that is done on the side front piece (which I did and that fits pretty well.)

The center front piece has almost no variations on the size except right up at the shoulders, upper arm area...not at the bust.

I'll work on posting a pic

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Annette
http://needlesnails.blogspot.com/

Annette Wright
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Date: 11/24/08 7:03 PM

click here

Okay, let's see if this isn't too embarrassing. What's weird is that a photo shows that clothes are crooked and we're lopsided and all.

The black dots are approximately where the pattern says the bust apex should be. Question??? is the apex where my nipple would be? Jeez, how embarrassing.

The red dots are approximately where my "apex" is at the time the photo was taken. They do tend to drift.

Yes, I have a well fitted bra, just a set of wonky boobs that go this way and that.

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Annette
http://needlesnails.blogspot.com/

Sew4Fun
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In reply to Annette Wright


Date: 11/24/08 8:40 PM

>>Yet I need to do a FBA, and that is done on the side front piece

Actually no. When your bust apex is under the side front you need to split the adjustment, doing part of the FBA to the centre front pattern piece, making the princess seam sit either directly over your bust point or slightly to the side.

If you have or can borrow from the library "Fit for Real People" by Palmer/Pletsch they have a really good section addressing how to do this step by step.

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Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/

Annette Wright
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In reply to Sew4Fun


Date: 11/24/08 8:43 PM

I have FFRP and I guess I'm just not finding it.

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Annette
http://needlesnails.blogspot.com/

Sew4Fun
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In reply to Annette Wright


Date: 11/24/08 8:49 PM

In my book (which is a few years old now) it's on page 150.

In case you have a newer version (with different page numbers), in the Chapter on "Bust", under the "Altering Princess Seams" section there are the following headings:

"Determine Amount of Full Bust Adjustment" and
"Adding Width to the Front"

Re-read these two sections. These relate to your issue. HTH

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Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/

Annette Wright
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In reply to Sew4Fun


Date: 11/24/08 9:19 PM

Yes, it's p. 150 in my book too...I was just not sure as it was for a shoulder princess, and I'm doing an armhole princess.

I will review it though.

Thanks.

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Annette
http://needlesnails.blogspot.com/

Sew4Fun
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In reply to Annette Wright


Date: 11/24/08 10:25 PM

>>...I was just not sure as it was for a shoulder princess, and I'm doing an armhole princess

It makes no difference. Same principle. You need to add width (and a small amount of length) to the centre front to move the princess seam over.

The other way you can do is on page 153 if your amount is 1/2" or less.

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Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/

Lady_Mame
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Lady_Mame
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In reply to Sew4Fun


Date: 11/24/08 11:20 PM

Eeee! That was even helpful for me. Thanks for this thread, ladies!

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Needle Needle Straight and Slim, Dust and Sweep the House for Him! --Grimm Fairy Tales

KiwiWendy
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In reply to Sew4Fun


Date: 11/25/08 6:20 PM

Quote: Sew4Fun
>>...I was just not sure as it was for a shoulder princess, and I'm doing an armhole princess



It makes no difference. Same principle. You need to add width (and a small amount of length) to the centre front to move the princess seam over.



The other way you can do is on page 153 if your amount is 1/2" or less.

I always have to do a large FBA, and one of the first things I do is compare my apex distance from CF to the patterns distance. That way if it's a princess or other seamed bodice I know whether I need to split the increase between pieces.

Hmm, not sure that I'm making sense.

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Sydney, Australia

Annette Wright
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In reply to KiwiWendy


Date: 11/25/08 6:29 PM

All this makes a lot of sense. What didn't make sense is that 2 different patterns (armhole princess seams) show the apex in about 1 inch on the center front (from the princess seam.) And they are pretty close together (I'd need to measure it.) Obviously some breast sit a lot wider apart.

I found a fitting description that said the apex should be directly under the seam or slightly into the front side piece.

If that is the case, my original fit appears close enough, and I'm leaving it at that for now.

Now to get the back princess seams to fit.

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Annette
http://needlesnails.blogspot.com/

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