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Forum > Fabrics and more... > How to tell the right from the wrong side of Rayon Jersey? ( Moderated by CynthiaSue)

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How to tell the right from the wrong side of Rayon Jersey?
Nancy Anne
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Nancy Anne
Intermediate
Texas USA
Member since 11/26/04
Posts: 179
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Date: 11/30/08 7:18 PM

I ordered a beautiful mid-weight rayon jersey from Gorgeous Fabrics that I have finally worked up the nerve to cut and sew (never worked with knits before!), and I'm having an awful time figuring out which side is the right side. Did I read somewhere that the selvage edges curl towards the right side? I want to let it sit for a bit before I cut it, but I want to make sure it's sittin' right. (Also read it needs a rest after you lay it out before cutting. I guess this stuff exhausts easily. )

I've read a plethora of posts on sewing with knits here, but can't find this subject no matter how much I search. So I'm sorry if this is a repeat.

Thanks so much in advance for any help!

Nancy Anne

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Nancy Anne

Big Dog

Big Dog
Intermediate
Michigan USA
Member since 1/22/06
Posts: 1183
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Date: 11/30/08 7:23 PM

Jersey knits have a rib on the "right side", but with fine fabrics it can be very hard to see. I usually grab a lighted magnifier to look for the ribs. The back side will look like tiny scallops.
I always use a with nap layout for cutting my knit fabrics, sometimes you will see a very slight difference in sheen and the way some knitted fibers reflect light.

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Formerly sew*itch

Michelle L
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Michelle L
Intermediate
Missouri USA
Member since 1/20/08
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In reply to Nancy Anne


Date: 11/30/08 7:25 PM

I remember reading in another thread about knits that when it is cut, it will curl towards the right side.

Of course, I couldn't find that post to save my life right now

Good luck to you!

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Michelle

http://cheapandpicky.blogspot.com/

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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New York USA
Member since 12/28/04
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In reply to Nancy Anne


Date: 11/30/08 9:18 PM

The cut edge when pulled across the grain will curl to the right side. I use a magnifying glass to find the grain, which I mark with blue painters tape.

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

emelle
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emelle
Alabama USA
Member since 11/22/07
Posts: 506
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In reply to Nancy Anne


Date: 11/30/08 11:16 PM

While it is true that knits have a right and wrong side (the knit - or V- side and the purl -or loop/bump- side)...the beauty is that as long as you are consistant, either side can be the right side......

Sometimes in jersey, I may like the way the color plays on one side more than the other...then that side is the right side and I'm sticking to it.....(just think-some sweaters are knit with the knit side showing and others are purposefully knit with the purl side showing),

To make sure I do not mix up which side is which, I use a bit of chalk to mark the WRONG side of each piece as I cut it out....ask me why I do this!.....after a piece is cut out and separated from the pattern piece, the phone will ring, the kids will want something and the next thing you know...it's sewn in *hind parts before*.

Good luck, rayon jersey is one of my favorite fabrics...but a slippery thing it is too. ML

KaraKai
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KaraKai  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Virginia USA
Member since 8/19/06
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Date: 12/1/08 8:07 AM

Oh I love the tips on this thread! I'm glad you asked the Q! :D

I keep one of those little keychain lights at my sewing desk and use that if I get confused on the 'right' side, it is hard to tell with some of the solid colors and I've even been confused a few times with prints that are vibrant on the back as well.

I love the chalk tip, I can use that one..indeed! And the right side curling up is good to know! I love rayon jersey, any jersey.. and sew it up a lot.


Sherril Miller
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Sherril Miller  Friend of PR
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California USA
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Date: 12/1/08 9:29 AM

Does anyone wash and dry their rayon jersey in the washing machine and dryer? I just cut some and I certainly don't want to have to dry clean it. I did put it through one cycle, but can see some wear on it already.

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Visit my blog at http://sewingsaga.blogspot.com

If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL

Speech girl
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Speech girl  Friend of PR
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Georgia USA
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In reply to Sherril Miller


Date: 12/1/08 10:13 AM

I prewash and dry but for sewn garments I'll usually wash on cold with the machine and then lay flat to dry.

I like rayon jersey a lot, but have found that sometimes dresses and skirts I make from it will lengthen. Not always, but sometimes. I don't know if it's the quality of the fabric, or due to the fact that sometimes I hang my fabric after I wash it if i'm not sewing with it right away and sometimes I sew with it soon after washing. I read in an old sewing book that knits should be hung to pre-stretch them so they won't stretch out later and I'm wondering if I'm having more success with my rayon jersey on those occasions that I've inadvertantly "prestretched" it by hanging it.
Any thoughts?

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Kim
formerly mikkim
http://girlwithatimemachine.wordpress.com/

Big Dog

Big Dog
Intermediate
Michigan USA
Member since 1/22/06
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In reply to Speech girl


Date: 12/1/08 11:30 AM

Mikkim, you might be onto something there. Some knit fabrics seem to grow, slinky is a good example that comes to mind. I wonder if it is the weight of the fabric, fiber or the gauge of the knit. Some sweater knits can be especially stretchy, due to the looseness of the knit.
I always prewash fabric the same way I plan to launder the finished item. To prevent any surprises, if I'm not sure how it will look after laundering I will cut a square and prewash that to avoid any unpleasant surprises.

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Formerly sew*itch

Nancy Anne
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Nancy Anne
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Texas USA
Member since 11/26/04
Posts: 179
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In reply to Sherril Miller


Date: 12/1/08 6:08 PM

Thanks everyone, for the great replies! I am noticing a very subtle difference in the two sides, so I will be sure to mark them immediatly after cutting. I really don't have a preferance to which side, but I don't want it to look funky when it's done!

I did wash and dry this before cutting, and it looks the same as before (probably because Ann only sews quality stuff), except it shrunk quite a bit! I can no longer fit the skirt pieces on it width-wise. BUT, I measured the pattern pieces and it has so much ease, and I like things a little more fitted, that I blieve it can cut it smaller and it will work still. If for some reason I can't get all the pattern pieces on length-wise, I have an alternate shirt pattern I can make. But I'd really like the dress! It's getting great reviews here on PR.

Now I just have to figure out how to use this new walking foot.....

Oh! That leads me to a new question: Is there anything I need to know about my walking foot before I try it?

Thanks again!

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Nancy Anne

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