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Grading & Trimming Seams
multiple layers-what is correct way?
jannw
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jannw
Washington USA
Member since 9/3/06
Posts: 8552
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 12/8/08 4:22 PM

The only info I can find in my reference books on grading the seams is for 2 layers only. In my coat, I have 3 layers of lightweight(skirt thickness) wool, lining of china silk backed with a heavy flannel. All the wool is interfaced with a fusible nylon tricot. Tha back lining has a pleat in it..so 2 more layers of flannel at that point and another layer of wool for the facings to the shoulder seams.

Do I trim and bevel every other layer and notch? I want to have the layers different widths..don't I? What is the proper way to do this? The collar stands up, so I don't want a ridge showing around it.
Thanx,
jan

------
2009-113.25 yds
2010-115.5
2011-80.25+30+donated
2012 86.3 yds..
2013 21.0
Everyone who sews seriously has a stockpile of fabrics, because it is natural to purchase more than can be sewn in any one season" Singer, Timesaving Sewing, 1987

Teri
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Teri
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 156
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 12/8/08 4:34 PM

Hi Jan,
I would grade them all with the layer next to the skin the thinnest. For the pleat, I would (this might not be the home ec. way) clip the corners of the pleat folds to minimize bulk. I hope this helps.

Stitchology

Stitchology
Maryland USA
Member since 1/26/03
Posts: 3678
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 12/8/08 5:14 PM

I would grade them leaving the thinnest layer or the one most prone to raveling the longest. You can bevel a thicker fabric, but probably not any of the ones you describe. You can peel the fused layers apart and trim the layers differently. Trimming with pinking shears also feathers the edges so the bulk reduces smoothly, not in stair steps.

You can also reduce bulk with a clapper and steam if the fabric will tolerate the steam without shrinking. Consider how the coat would look with top stitching; if your machine can handle the bulk topstitching will clamp things together.

As with any other treatment question this is something to try out with scraps. Sew samples with all the layers as they are in the coat and experiment with the suggestions you get to see which works best. It can be a PITA, but not as bad as having lumpy or fraying seams. Coats are worn more often and for longer than other clothes and go on and off more than once a day.

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Buy the best and you only cry once.

Vie
Vie
Member since 12/15/07
Posts: 559
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 12/9/08 8:03 AM

To keep the ridge thing down keep the layer closest to the public side the longest and don't get too close with the bottom layer. Under stitch where you can.

jannw
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jannw
Washington USA
Member since 9/3/06
Posts: 8552
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 12/9/08 2:03 PM

Thank you all for your suggestions..I will try the clapper and see if that helps. I'll also understitch..so far my machine has been handling the bulk so I'm fortunate there.

thanx again,
jan

------
2009-113.25 yds
2010-115.5
2011-80.25+30+donated
2012 86.3 yds..
2013 21.0
Everyone who sews seriously has a stockpile of fabrics, because it is natural to purchase more than can be sewn in any one season" Singer, Timesaving Sewing, 1987

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