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Forum > Fitting Woes > BUST APEX ON PRINCESS SEAMS?? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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BUST APEX ON PRINCESS SEAMS??
Deborah K
Deborah K
Colorado USA
Member since 5/2/03
Posts: 8
Skill: Beginner
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Date: 12/18/08 2:35 PM

I just cannot understand how to lower the apex on a princess seamed garment. I read Sandra Betzina's tiny, parenthetical instructions, and I have read what I could find on this list, and I have searched the net in vain. I just don't get it.

So, in words suitable for a fourth grader, how do I lower the bust point on a princess seamed dress?

Thanks for any advice!

Deborah

Nancy K
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Nancy K
Member since 12/28/04
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In reply to Deborah K


Date: 12/18/08 3:18 PM

First, you need the measurement for your bust point. Compare it to the patterns. If it is a big 4 pattern, it will be marked. If it is Burda, they will give you the measurement, and you measure from the center of the shoulder seam down. Subtract the difference. Draw a box around the patterns bust point and cut it out. Lower it the amount you've figured out and put some paper underneath to fill in the opening, tape it down. Do the same on the center front piece at the same location and you have it. FFRP has a very good illustration.

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JTink
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JTink
Member since 4/20/08
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In reply to Deborah K


Date: 12/18/08 5:02 PM

Nancy K pretty much sums it up. The FFRP book has a great section on FBA's and Apex adjustments for Princess seams(armhole and shoulder). I don't know what I ever did without that book!

Deborah K
Deborah K
Colorado USA
Member since 5/2/03
Posts: 8
Skill: Beginner
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Date: 12/18/08 5:47 PM

THANK YOU!!! This I understand. Since the breast line is large (36L-I'm not kidding), I'm guessing that I should make a quite big cut, like 6 inches or so in length, in order to retain the bust curve. Is this right? And then I freehand in the rest of the line to retain the original shape?

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to Deborah K


Date: 12/19/08 3:22 PM

It might be that big, but not usually, and I am a DD cup. Do the ht adjustment first, then do the fba and the shape will take care of itself, because it will change when you do the fba. A word of caution, with a very large bust, there is often too much fabric above the bust point after the fba and you should make a muslin to adjust this, usually just by pinning it out and blending into the rest of the seam
-- Edited on 12/19/08 3:24 PM --

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Deborah K
Deborah K
Colorado USA
Member since 5/2/03
Posts: 8
Skill: Beginner
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Date: 12/19/08 7:15 PM

Thanks ladies! I drafted and cut out new front pieces. I'll let you know how it turns out.

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