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Forum > Sewing for Petite Sizes > Recommendations for good petite pant pattern? ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Recommendations for good petite pant pattern?
Would like to find pant pattern for short, petite, small frame
phthooey
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phthooey
Intermediate
Texas USA
Member since 1/5/08
Posts: 15
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Date: 1/3/09 7:45 PM

Hi there, I have begun three pairs of pants and not finished any of them out of frustration re: fit. After nearly a year hiatus from pants, I am ready to master them in 2009! Do any of you have suggestions for a good pattern to start with that requires few pattern mods, and the simpler the better? I have tried one Betsy Ross and two Simplicity and just screamed in frustration not getting them to fit right.

If any of you have similar measurements/ specs/ proportions, I'm about 5', 100 pounds. I have a 25-inch waist, 34.5-inch hips. Other than shortening the hem in some dresses, I don't generally petite my patterns at the hip, only at the waist.

I've read so many good things about the Alice + Olivia patterns through Vogue, but the smallest size in the one Vogue pant pattern I have looks way too long/ big when I put a pair of good-fitting pants on top of them.

Thanks in advance for your suggestions!

Rosebeee
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Rosebeee
Advanced Beginner
Oregon USA
Member since 10/16/07
Posts: 613
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In reply to phthooey


Date: 1/3/09 8:38 PM

The only petite specific patterns I'm aware of are Petite Plus (which you aren't), and there also some Burda patterns that are specifically meant for petites.

For 99% of all patterns though, you're probably going to have to petite the pattern. Especially as you're only 5'. And your 5' might need a VERY different pattern shape/length than say, my own 5' 2". It's all in where your length/shortness is.

Adjusting patterns for being petite isn't really that hard! Honest! Do you have a copy of FFRP?

Shorten the pattern between waist and crotch &/or waist & hip, depending on how the muslin or tissue fitting goes.

You may also need to shorten the pattern between hip and knee, and again between knee and bottom hemline.

This Pattern grading chart though only shows shortening the garment in two places, once between waist and hip, and once between hip and knee.

This Size Chart from Simplicity shows a 25" waist is a size 10, and a 34.5" hips is also a size 10.

When you're looking for what size to use, don't forget to look at the finished garment measurements.

Good luck!!
-- Edited on 1/3/09 8:39 PM --

------
Becca
My blog: rosebee.dreamwidth.org
So much fabric & patterns to fantasize about, so little time to sew!!

Aixoise
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Aixoise  Friend of PR
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California USA
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Date: 1/3/09 9:16 PM

I agree with Rosebeee that Pants for Real People (PFRP - by Palmer/Pletsch Publishing) is a great resource. But I can also recommend Simplicity 2860, called "Amazing Fit." They've included all kinds of alteration guidelines, plus lines on the pattern that are helpful, for Slim, Average, and Curvy figures (their categories). I got quite a good result the first time I used this pattern. Good luck! Perseverance rules when it comes to making pants that fit well and are comfortable.

phthooey
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phthooey
Intermediate
Texas USA
Member since 1/5/08
Posts: 15
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Date: 1/3/09 10:23 PM

Rosebeee -- I had never heard of Pants for Real People but I will see if I can find that -- thanks for the suggestion. In the Betsy Ross pattern I followed their size chart and ended up with a disaster. In the first Simplicity, I went with a straight 10 and it was way too big. For the next Simplicity pant pattern I tried, I went with the finished garment measurements on the pattern tissue, allowing for an inch or two of ease here and there, and sewed an 8. It was also way too big, and in both pants I had a hard time figuring out exactly what felt so wrong/ made it ill-fitting!

Aixoise -- Thanks for the full title and publisher info for PFRP. I saw on the Simplicity site that they had 2860 in the last set of new patterns, but hadn't gotten to the fabric store to check it out. I'll try to find your pattern review here. I can see how perseverance will pay off! :)

Rosebeee
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Rosebeee
Advanced Beginner
Oregon USA
Member since 10/16/07
Posts: 613
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In reply to phthooey


Date: 1/3/09 11:52 PM

Definitely get Pants for Real People if you can. It'll be a HUGE help.

They have you do tissue fitting, trying on the pattern before you cut into your fabric. I trace out the pattern on to something sturdier than the tissue paper it's printed on, and then pin the traced pieces together so I can do my altering/fitting/adjusting before I start cutting/basting/sewing my fabric. :)

Also, keep in mind that if you're looking for a close/slim fit, you're not going to get a very good result if you're working with a pattern designed to be a wide legged loose fitting trouser!

------
Becca
My blog: rosebee.dreamwidth.org
So much fabric & patterns to fantasize about, so little time to sew!!

Aixoise
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Aixoise  Friend of PR
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California USA
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In reply to Aixoise


Date: 1/4/09 0:34 AM

Oops! I haven't reviewed this pattern. (I haven't reviewed any patterns. Bad, bad!) But I'm an avid reader and appreciator of others' reviews and try to contribute comments when I can.

Karla Kizer
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Karla Kizer  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/4/09 8:15 AM

I feel like a parrot. Every time someone says "how can I find a pattern in a small size?", I sit up on my perch and say "Jalie. Jalie."

This Jalie pants pattern is temporarily out of stock, but until they are available again, you could read some of the reviews I'd recommend ordering as soon as it's available again - a classic, contemporary pattern that covers 27 sizes, starting with little girls' size 2. Because it's very snug-fitting (and some of us found we had to go up a size or two), I think that you might want to consider using size R and adjusting top of the the seams and darts to make it fit on the size O or P waistband. Back of the pattern envelope.

It's easy to adjust the length by folding tucks in the pattern between the waist and crotch, and between the crotch and the knee, which, if I remember correctly, is marked on the pattern with little notches. Because you are 5' tall, you could adjust the pattern by folding it so it lined up lengthwise with size P (the girls' sizes have a variable height indication, and 152cm would be about 5 feet.).

Good luck with your quest!
-- Edited on 1/4/09 8:22 AM --

------
“Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and it annoys the pig.” -Robert Heinlein and Ann's father. Thanks for the reminder, Ann.

Where are we going, and what am I doing in this handbasket?

Matthew 25:40 (New International Version)
The King will reply, 'I tell you the truth, whatever you did for one of the least of these brothers of mine, you did for me.'



phthooey
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phthooey
Intermediate
Texas USA
Member since 1/5/08
Posts: 15
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Date: 1/5/09 0:56 AM

Karla, thank you for referring me to Jalie. I will check out that pattern and all the reviews. (Funny enough, I happen to be going to Canada on business later this month!) I think figuring out where all the tucks should go, and how big they need to be, based on my specific body, is going to require a lot of patience on my part. I recall rise being a big prob on the Betsy Ross pants, and the crotch depth and overall bagginess around my rear end being a problem with the Simplicities.

Thanks to everyone who responded -- it is great to have several suggestions based on expertise! I'm looking forward to making some great pants!

cabinbaby
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cabinbaby  Friend of PR
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Alaska USA
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In reply to Karla Kizer


Date: 1/7/09 3:09 PM

Quote: Karla Kizer
I feel like a parrot. Every time someone says "how can I find a pattern in a small size?", I sit up on my perch and say "Jalie. Jalie."



This Jalie pants pattern is temporarily out of stock, but until they are available again, you could read some of the reviews I'd recommend ordering as soon as it's available again - a classic, contemporary pattern that covers 27 sizes, starting with little girls' size 2. Because it's very snug-fitting (and some of us found we had to go up a size or two), I think that you might want to consider using size R and adjusting top of the the seams and darts to make it fit on the size O or P waistband. Back of the pattern envelope.



It's easy to adjust the length by folding tucks in the pattern between the waist and crotch, and between the crotch and the knee, which, if I remember correctly, is marked on the pattern with little notches. Because you are 5' tall, you could adjust the pattern by folding it so it lined up lengthwise with size P (the girls' sizes have a variable height indication, and 152cm would be about 5 feet.).



Good luck with your quest!
-- Edited on 1/4/09 8:22 AM --

I was going to shout this out too but Karla already did! I love Jalie. I am not petite (5'6" 115 lbs) but their pants fit great. I think I'm one of the smaller "adult" sizes and you would fit in the "child sizes" so they may be petite-ed for you already. I am petite on top and use one of their larger "child's sizes". I don't have to petite it because they have already done it.

------
dawn
www.twoontwooff.blogspot.com

plazaglass

plazaglass
Intermediate
Florida USA
Member since 12/22/07
Posts: 150
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In reply to phthooey


Date: 1/9/09 9:44 PM

I am also 5 feet tall and 100 pounds with a 25-inch waist and hips about a half an inch bigger than yours, and I am pleased to tell you that I FINALLY made a pair of pants that fit. I did make a muslin first (had to take in the waist a bit, shorten the length through the hip area and shorten the leg length). The pattern is out of print, but the small size pattern is still available in the out-of-print section on the Vogue web site. I'll be doing a review of these pants as soon as I get a picture.

The pattern is Vogue 9537

I made the view on the right in a size 6.

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