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Rotating bust dart into neckline
Wherexactly do I rotate it?
TalyQ
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TalyQ
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Date: 2/25/09 1:51 AM

I would like to make a t-shirt like this:



I do not have the pattern for a shirt like that. But I have a TNT t-shirt pattern with a bust dart that I would like to rotate into the neckline to achieve this effect and not loose the bust room. Where exactly do I rotate it to? Do I slash from bust point toward center of neckline? Somehow I can't figure this out. I searched the net and PR, but couldn't find what I am looking for. THank you.

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Natalija from Serbia (mom to 6 daughters and 1 son)

ladybegood
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In reply to TalyQ <<


Date: 2/25/09 2:26 AM

That's where I would put it, at the center front neck point. The only thing is that it doesn't look like a lot of gathering, so I would probably try to minimize the dart as much as possible, so I might try to rotate some of it to the waist or side seam, too.

------
"Creativity is the residue of time wasted." Albert Einstein.
No wonder I just keep getting more and more creative!

KiwiWendy
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KiwiWendy
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In reply to TalyQ <<


Date: 2/25/09 2:27 AM

Hi TalyQ, the picture's too small to see if that's gathering at the centre front or tie attached there.

Assuming it's gathers, rotate the dart to the centre of the neckline, and yes you've guessed it, rotate from bustpoint to neckline. I know I've seen a review of it somewhere, but I can't find it easily either. Hopefully someone else will find it quickly (although I'll still keep looking for you).

------
Sydney, Australia

TalyQ
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TalyQ
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In reply to KiwiWendy <<


Date: 2/25/09 5:19 AM

Yes, it's gathers, it's the Ottobre tee that has been reviewed lots of times.

------
Natalija from Serbia (mom to 6 daughters and 1 son)

ryan's mom
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Date: 2/25/09 6:40 AM

The alteration/dart transfer will also depend on your bust dart. If the dart is big (C cup or bigger), I would make 2 or 3 slashes, one being very close to the CF, one or two others 3/4" away from that first slash. This will increase the area being gathered a bit, but it might give the top an overall better look without so much being gathered right at the CF is you have a full bust.

Another option would be to keep the bust dart and add gathering as a design detail at the CF. This way you could control exactly how much gathering to add. When you line the CF of the pattern up on the fold of the fabric, anchor the CF at the hemline, and pivot the neck edge back into the fabric (not out over the foldline). This way you can add just a bit of gathering, exactly how much you want.

In summary, if you rotate the dart, depending on the dart size, you may have more gathering at the CF than you want. You do have options. Just pick the one which think will give you the best design detail that you want.

------
Big 4 Pattern size 12, RTW bottom: 6, RTW jacket 8, RTW top (no size fits me well!)
Measurements: 34 HB/36 FB (34C bra)/27.5/36 (and working hard to keep it that way.)
Machines: Sewing: Elna 760, vintage Kenmore Model 33 (1967), Janome Gem Gold 3, Singer Model 99, Singer 221/Featherweight. Sergers: Babylock Imagine and Babylock Enlighten. Embroidery Only: Janome 300E. Embroidery/Sewing Combo: Brother Dream machine. Coverstitch: Babylock BLCS. Straight Stitch: Janome 1600P.

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TalyQ
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TalyQ
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In reply to ryan's mom <<


Date: 2/25/09 6:51 AM

Thank you. I think my questions are answered. Now I'll have to experiment with the amount and method. I think I might go with a bit wider gathering then just the center. I'll let you know.

------
Natalija from Serbia (mom to 6 daughters and 1 son)

Nancy K
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In reply to TalyQ <<


Date: 2/25/09 7:45 AM

Debbie Cook has a similar tutorial for a shirred front top. To create the top you want change the rotation point to the neckline to the left of cf.

here
But I agree that a large bust dart will give you to much gathering. The Ottobre t has a very small amount of gathering. Slashing at the neckline might work better. I have found that too much gather at cf is not all that flattering if you have a large bust. It forms a fold that falls between the breasts that is not attractive!
The slashing and spreading has to go almost to the hem so that the pattern will lie flat.
-- Edited on 2/25/09 7:49 AM --

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

Speech girl
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In reply to TalyQ <<


Date: 2/25/09 8:45 AM

I will have to agree that you may get more gathering than you want by rotating the entire dart. I did rotate a bust dart to the neckline in a t-shirt once and did gathers along nearly the entire front neckline (I was copying a vintage jersey top I saw a picure of); the gathers would have been very deep if I had done them just at the center front. Perhaps if you rotated part of the dart and then eased the rest at the side seams if you don't want to sew the remainder of the bust dart as a dart?

------
Kim
formerly mikkim
http://girlwithatimemachine.wordpress.com/

TalyQ
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TalyQ
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In reply to Speech girl <<


Date: 2/25/09 10:11 AM

Quote: mikkim
Perhaps if you rotated part of the dart and then eased the rest at the side seams if you don't want to sew the remainder of the bust dart as a dart?

Actually I was thinking about this very same thing this afternoon. I think I'm going ot do that.

------
Natalija from Serbia (mom to 6 daughters and 1 son)

SheilaAnn

SheilaAnn
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Date: 2/25/09 10:43 AM

I just wanted to ask a question since I've always been curious about what you all mean when you say "rotate" the dart. Is that just closing the existing dart, and making it in another area, as in Debbi Cook's example above? "Rotate" meaning that the point of the dart stays in the same place, but the fullness is moved? Can it be moved anywhere?

------
Sheila

God's love is infinite!

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