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What are my proportions
gotpeace91

gotpeace91
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AR USA
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Date: 3/29/09 11:59 AM

I have just finished reading a few of the threads having to do with pattern alterations for tall women.

I know how to lengthen pants and sleeves etc. But several people said that it depends where you are tall.

I am 5'11". I am not good at being able to discern proportion. Am I long waisted, long legged, long everything or what? I don't know.I know there are probably some books out there that could help but having just recently got into a little trouble with money, I don't want to purchase anything for a bit.

I will be happy to share any measurements that might be helpful. I think my exaggerated pear shape is causing some of the problem. (see the side view in my review of the blue dress for a perfect illustration of this)

Thanks in advance for any help you can give,
Leah

skae
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skae  Friend of PR
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In reply to gotpeace91


Date: 3/29/09 12:23 PM


Right now i'm working on some clothes for a lady that is short in the torso and very long legs. take a look in the mirror. look at your legs. are they longer then to your torso?
also you can tell if you are longer in the torso then in the legs.
I'm short in the legs but long in the torso and i'm pear shaped. If you can send a picture of you and we can determind how you are shaped. you could be even proportioned and still have a pear shape. I think putting a picture of you with pants and a top on we could see how your shaped

------
Ecclesiastes 11:7,8 Nothing on earth is more beautiful than the morning sun. Even if you live to a ripe old age, you should try to enjoy each day, because darkness will come and will last a long time. (CEV)

gotpeace91

gotpeace91
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In reply to skae


Date: 3/29/09 12:52 PM

Sorry I can't figure out how to add photos. I copy and pasted the url but it's not working. I guess you'll have to look at the pics in my reviews.
Here are some measurements.
Bust 37
Waist 38
Hip 45
Center front 16
Center back 17
Shoulder to bust 10.5
Arm length (elbow bent slightly) 27
Waist to floor 45.5

Thank you so much for your prompt reply,
Leah

-- Edited on 3/29/09 1:03 PM --

my horse
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my horse
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Date: 3/29/09 2:13 PM

Hi and welcome to PR. You'll get lots of help here. I'm 5'11" as well and some of your measurements compare to mine. After 35 years of sewing I have found that I am evenly proportioned for most pattern style fittings. My center back is 1" longer than yours and my waist to floor is 1" shorter. So you definitely have more leg!!! I still have to add length to every pattern piece and often, as in the case of pants, add length in several places on the same piece. It's not as simple as adding a couple of inches to the add/shorten line on the pattern. Is most of your length knee to floor, knee to hip, elbow to wrist, shoulder to elbow.....?

An inexpensive, but easy way to honestly tell your shape is to tape a large piece of paper to the wall,divide it horizontally into thirds or better yet fifths, then stand with your back against it and have someone trace around your entire body. A real eye opener when you stand back and look at it.

Everyone is different and the idea of fitting and achieving a proportioned look is affected by the styles you wear.

The March 2009 issue of Threads magazine (Vol. 141) had a very good article about perfect proportions. I saw some still in the store last week or they will be available online as back issues soon. About 7 bucks I think and well worth having. It is clear and concise and will save you years of trial and error in that one article alone.

Chyrl



------
She looks for wool and flax And works with her hands in delight. Proverbs 31:13 NAS

tlmck3
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tlmck3
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Date: 3/29/09 3:53 PM

I tried to post this earlier but it apparently didn't "take."

If you want to see how your proportions differ from the standard pattern, you can make a fitting shell like this one from Butterick: Butterick 5746

Vogue has one for pants as well:

Vogue 1003

There are directions included which will help you alter the shells in places where you need more or less length or more or less width. The instructions will help you determine Where on your body you need to add or subtract from the standard pattern. You can pretty much make those same alterations on most patterns from the big companies with very minor tweaking.

I'm not sure a fitting shell will answer all your proportion questions but it will help you understand how your body is different from the standard pattern.

------
I am going for a level of perfection that is only mine... Most of the pleasure is in getting that last little piece perfect...Inspiration is for amateurs. The rest of us just keep showing up and doing the work.

Chuck Close, painter, printmaker, photographer

Hope has two lovely daughters: Anger and Courage

St. Augustine

gotpeace91

gotpeace91
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In reply to my horse


Date: 3/29/09 3:59 PM

Hi Chyrl,
So nice to meet someone the same height as me! Thanks for the info you gave me. I am going to try tracing around my body. Sounds like a good idea.

knee to floor 20.5
fullest hip to knee 20

elbow to wrist 10.5
shoulder to elbow 15

I agree that it's not just as simple as adding a couple inches. I think that the distance from shoulder to bust and bust to waist matters too. As well as hip depth and leg length. I'm just not sure where I am "average" according to the patterns or long or short in these areas.

Add to that the fact that my bust is smaller than my waist and you have problems.


thanks again,
Leah

gotpeace91

gotpeace91
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In reply to tlmck3


Date: 3/29/09 4:05 PM

Yes, I think this will help very much, thank you!
Leah

chloeE
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In reply to gotpeace91


Date: 3/29/09 4:15 PM

Do you have the palmer and alto book, Fit for Real People?. if not try to get it at the library. it will give u the details, what to look for.
ideally, an average figure should be 8 "heads'' tall. Perfect proportions are: underarm halfway between top of head and hip, Waist halfway b/t underarm and hip, where the leg joins at hip is half of body, knee is halfway between hip and feet. If your proportions don't match in these areas, you can be long/short waisted, long/short legged, etc.

you can also compare your measurements to the pattern and see where they differ. that will also tell you if you are shorter or longer in that area, if so, then you will need to lengthen or shorten the pattern.

i've found however, i can get lost with all these measurements, and not get a thing sewn. once i determine which pattern size I am, i add 1" side seam allowances to the tissue, make my length adjustments on the tissue pattern and then tissue fit to my body.

anyway, try to get the book at the library, it will make better sense than how i am explaining here. there is a FFRP DVD, but i don't know if that is available at the library.

------
We are stardust.


ClaireEmily
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ClaireEmily
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Date: 3/29/09 5:37 PM

hi!
I am 5'10" and am also in the process of learning how to lengthen things to fit. My top tip would be to tissue fit the pattern so you can see where you need extra length for each individual pattern. I now trace all my patterns so that I can alter them without destryoing the original. Most patterns have bust point and waist marked so you can see if you pin the pieces together and try them on how much you need to add to get the waist down to your waist.

I have found for myself that I am very long bodied and need to add length between shoulder and bust and also lots between bust and waist. I started a thread a few weeks ago here called "tall person bodice adjustment' that you could look up and heaps of people gave great advice.

I have had less trouble with skirts because I like to wear them lower on the hip not on the high waist.

My advice would be - try it on and add whereever you need it, and adding in more places is better than just in one.

Good luck - oh also, where do you find that RTW clothes aren't long enough? For me that is a good indication.

I hope you have great success!!

------
Claire - Melbourne, Australia

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to chloeE


Date: 3/29/09 6:01 PM

I totally agree that you seem to be long in the legs. And I do second the suggestion that ChloeE made, Fit For Real People would be a great book for you to have. It covers this subject. I know you said you are tight on money right now, but maybe one of the local Joann's or Hancocks has it and you can use the coupon.

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