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Forum > Fitting Woes > Which cup size to use??? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Which cup size to use???
More on the ever-discussed FBA
tourist
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tourist  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/13/09 11:21 AM

I know this is probably in one or more of our bra/FBA discussions, but here we go again...

I just bought 2 identical bras (except for colour) and one is a B cup, one is a C cup. They fit extremely well, using all of the usual criteria - no overflow, the center bit between the cups hits my chest, the band is 80% of the support, etc. Then I checked the few I have left at home that fit that well and lo and behold, my very favourite pretty bra is a D cup!

So how exactly does one figure "add half an inch per cup size" when doing an FBA? Technically, with the B cup bra, I shouldn't need one at all, but of course, I still do.

I'll answer my own question and say it just takes some experimenting and experience, but this is the sort of stuff that drives new sewers nuts. I'm not a new sewer and it is driving me nuts!

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http://bgballroom.wordpress.com to follow the progress on my next ballgown.

Debbie Cook
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Debbie Cook
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Date: 4/13/09 11:50 AM

I don't ever use a formula. I "tissue fit" the pattern or a tracing, only so far as to see how much I have to add before the pattern's center front comes to my CF, and THAT is how much I add.

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"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." Gilda Radner
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Rosebeee
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Rosebeee
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In reply to tourist


Date: 4/13/09 12:07 PM

I do the same tissue-fitting that Debbie does.

However, if you're feeling extremely lucky a 'shortcut' method is to look at the finished garment measurement for the bust.

First take your own full bust measurement and add however much ease (ease chart from Vogue) you want. Compare that total to the finished garment measurement.

That will give you an idea - but, the *best* way really is tissue fitting. Only tissue fitting (or making a muslin) will tell you *where* you need the width.

As far as the cup difference: I'm a 34F (aka DDD), a really stretchy fabric will let a 34DD fit just fine, and a European brand that's a 34G also fits beautifully.

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Becca
My blog: rosebee.dreamwidth.org
So much fabric & patterns to fantasize about, so little time to sew!!

SG1

SG1
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Date: 4/14/09 3:40 PM

Here's another one for tissue fit. Since there is no bra standard, you can't rely on cup sizes. Tissue fitting takes almost no time, but the end result is always perfect.

Sew4Fun
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In reply to tourist


Date: 4/14/09 6:47 PM

>>So how exactly does one figure "add half an inch per cup size" when doing an FBA?

Like everyone else I never go by a formula but rather fit each pattern individually. However, to answer your question the "add half an inch per cup size" has nothing to do with the bra sizes. It's related to the difference between two of your measurements.

I'm not sure where you got this information. There are several variations and it depends which one you read as to which two measurements you compare. Basically though you compare two body measurements to determine your cup size and that determines how much to add in theory, and we all know about theories. I'd advise to fit each pattern individually.

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Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/

li'l miss muffett
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li'l miss muffett
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Date: 4/16/09 9:41 AM

Yep, I'd definitely go for the tissue fit. Bra sizing in RTW is so wonky and unregulated you'll never get a good fit if you use the '1/2" per cup size method'. I have never heard of it either.

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Hugs & Stitches,
Heather

tourist
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Date: 4/16/09 10:23 AM

The half inch per cup size is from the Kwik Sew active wear book. It is oddly on a page about making an FBA with a photo of someone who looks like she needs a SBA in a bizarre plaid swim suit.

Between my typical issues of not paying close enough attention to instructions and my current estrogen deprived state (please tell me my brain will come back soon!) I am having trouble working with this book. *sigh* Luckily, everything seems to be working out as long as I have the patience to keep ripping out as needed.

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http://bgballroom.wordpress.com to follow the progress on my next ballgown.

Sew4Fun
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In reply to tourist


Date: 4/16/09 7:17 PM

>>The half inch per cup size is from the Kwik Sew active wear book.

That explains things a lot more, especially why the instructions only have you adjust by 1/2" per cup size (normally for a woven top it's 1").

Here is the link to Kwik Sew's instructions on how to measure your body. Scroll down to "bra size" where it tells you how Kwik Sew determine the different cup sizes. HTH

Edited to fix link.
-- Edited on 4/16/09 7:20 PM --

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Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/

dressy 123

dressy 123
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Date: 6/17/10 3:59 PM

Reading all the messages and reviews about FBA I thought I needed to do this and it would be the key to a better fit, but when i tried it, it made the fit worse and I was left totally confused about the cup size. Found some very useful information on the Simplicity Pattern website (see Simplicity Fitting Guide PDF doc) I now understand it much better. Pattern companies use the difference between the high bust measurement and the full bust measurement to decide the cup size. Here in the UK we always measure bra cup size by the difference between the full bust measurement and the bra band which sits at the bottom of the bust. I am a 34D bra size and B size for sewing.. To sum up measure yourself and don't mix the 2 measuring methods.[QUOTE]
-- Edited on 6/17/10 4:01 PM --

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