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Forum > Bridal and Formalwear Sewing > Help - Evening/Ball Gown with Invisible Hem ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Help - Evening/Ball Gown with Invisible Hem
Evening/Ball Gown Invisible Hem Vogue 2810
lavinarose

lavinarose
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UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 11/5/06
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Date: 4/15/09 1:18 AM

Hi, I am attending a ball in a few weeks and I am sewing an evening dress based on mutating patterns vogue 2237 (http://www.voguepatterns.com/item/V2237.htm?tab=list/evening_bridal_includes_designer&page=all) for the tophalf and vogue 2810 (http://www.voguepatterns.com/item/V2810.htm?tab=list/evening_bridal_includes_designer&page=all) for the bottom half. I would like to create an invisible hem for this garment so the stitching does not show through. My fabric choice is a black satin which I bought about 2 years ago. I have taken off about 5 inches off the train as I think it looks more like a wedding dress. I've read in one of my sewing books that I can sew the lining to my fabric which I understand but do I need to stabilise this with some sort of tape? Or should it be fine on it's own? Or is there another method of making an invisible hem or should I just do a hand rolled hem (I've tried using my rolled hem foot on some scrap fabric and it is hit and miss some bits look lovely and other bits look AWFUL! I need to practice more!!!). Any help will be much appreciated. Thanks

taylou

taylou
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UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 3/28/09
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In reply to lavinarose


Date: 5/7/09 5:59 PM

For best results you underline the skirt..........cut 2 layers (fabric + underlining ie organza) tack layers together and then sew skirt. You then hand sew hem to the underling only, so no stiches sew through
Best book ...........susan khalje........bridal couture
Narrow hemmers are only used on very full skirts /trims and light fabrics

------
taylou

Passion4Sewing
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Passion4Sewing  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/17/09 7:19 PM

You need 1" horsehair braid. It is not really "horsehair" any more. It's kind of like a Chinese finger trap which becomes a narrower tube when you pull it. Sew your side seams for the skirt and the lining. The lining only needs to be about 1/2" shorter than the fashion fabric. Place hems together, right sides together (you may want to pin them to match your side seams.) Lay the braid on top of lining amd gently, not pulling braid, stitch 1/4" hem. When you are finished stitching the hem, turn the braid and the lining in. You will have a nice 1/4" wrapped edge on the bottom of the braid. Press the hem. If you need to, lightly tack the braid to seams at the seams. Do all this BEFORE you attach to bodice. I have hemmed (altered) several wedding dresses like this and it is a very pretty finish. It just really needs to happen before the skirt is closed.

JEF
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JEF  Friend of PR
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VA USA
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Date: 5/18/09 10:18 AM

Here's my attempt to insert links for those patterns:

V2237
V2810

JEF

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"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." --Abraham Lincoln

skae
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In reply to lavinarose


Date: 5/18/09 11:49 PM

I did my daughter inlaw dress like that. She wanted lace on the top layer and satin underneath. I sewed the under peace and the top layer together first. then put together and sewed at the waist second. When you sew the two pieces together make sure you sew a second stitch on the underlining fabric so the 5/8 seam(hem) folds where it needs to. That also gave it enough body to. good luck and let us know how it turned out.

------
Ecclesiastes 11:7,8 Nothing on earth is more beautiful than the morning sun. Even if you live to a ripe old age, you should try to enjoy each day, because darkness will come and will last a long time. (CEV)

sno
sno
Expert/Couture
MN USA
Member since 6/17/07
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In reply to lavinarose


Date: 5/31/09 0:50 AM

The skirt appears to be bias cut... I would avoid underlining it or sewing the lining to your fabric. You will end up with a major mess if you try to do so since the bias will tend to stretch with hanging.

My suggestion is to do a serged rolled hem all the way around the bottom.

Artisania
Artisania
Intermediate
BC CANADA
Member since 5/20/09
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In reply to Passion4Sewing


Date: 6/17/09 2:26 AM

Quote: Passion4Sewing
You need 1" horsehair braid. It is not really "horsehair" any more. It's kind of like a Chinese finger trap which becomes a narrower tube when you pull it. Sew your side seams for the skirt and the lining. The lining only needs to be about 1/2" shorter than the fashion fabric. Place hems together, right sides together (you may want to pin them to match your side seams.) Lay the braid on top of lining amd gently, not pulling braid, stitch 1/4" hem. When you are finished stitching the hem, turn the braid and the lining in. You will have a nice 1/4" wrapped edge on the bottom of the braid. Press the hem. If you need to, lightly tack the braid to seams at the seams. Do all this BEFORE you attach to bodice. I have hemmed (altered) several wedding dresses like this and it is a very pretty finish. It just really needs to happen before the skirt is closed.


Oh that is a good question. I am of no help, but you've got some great suggestions

I'm currently sewing a silk wedding dress and this horsehair braid thing sounds like just the trick! Thanks for posting it!
Sewliz
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In reply to Artisania


Date: 6/17/09 8:37 AM

To help you find a source for horsehair braid, sometimes it is called crin trim. Farthingales has several types. I have bought from them and they are in Canada.

------
Liz

thefittinglife.blogspot.com

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