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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > FBA needed?

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FBA needed?
DGD wears a 30 J bra, but it's all in front, not on sides????
joann
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joann  Friend of PR
Intermediate
IL USA
Member since 7/15/03
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Date: 4/24/09 5:26 PM

My granddaughter wants to sew but her bra size is 30J. It is all in front and the sides of the cups are wrinkled and almost empty. Being a 32A this is not an alteration I have done! Any help appreciated!!

Rosebeee
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Rosebeee  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
OR USA
Member since 10/16/07
Posts: 613
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In reply to joann


Date: 4/24/09 5:32 PM

Yes, if your granddaughter's a 30J, then she'll *definitely* need a FBA. A very large FBA at that.

This FBA thread will have LOTS of links for you & her.

By "all in front and the sides of the cups are wrinkled and almost empty"... are you talking about the way she fills out (or doesn't fill out) her 30J bra? Maybe she's really a different size, then? I'd get her to a good bra store & get her properly measured/fitted.
-- Edited on 4/24/09 5:32 PM --

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Becca
My blog: rosebee.dreamwidth.org
So much fabric & patterns to fantasize about, so little time to sew!!

*Pepper*
*Pepper*  Friend of PR
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In reply to joann


Date: 4/24/09 5:44 PM

Quote: joann
It is all in front and the sides of the cups are wrinkled and almost empty.

If the cup is wrinkled, she needs a different size.

As a barely-B, I'm not much help with the alterations, tho. Sorry!
shanntarra
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shanntarra
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Date: 4/24/09 5:49 PM

I recently started playing with FBA on my large busted actresses. They have found a big difference in how the dresses are fitting them.

Yes talk to someone who is properly trained in getting her fitted for a bra. If the cups aren't being filled right she most certainly needs a different bra.

------
"Costume Tech's are overworked, underpaid, and underappreciated except to those designers, actors, directors, playwrights, and other theater artists who depend on them." - The Costume Technicians Handbook

KathySews
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KathySews  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/24/09 5:51 PM

I agree that she should have a bra fitting, but she will definitely need to learn to make FBA on every top/jacket she sews. Look into the Palmer/Pletsch Full Bust alteration DVD. for $20 it will show how to do an fba on several styles. Their Fit for Real People is also mandatory in my opinion.

Buy patterns based on the high bust measurement - the logic is that high bust gets best fitting pattern through shoulders, arms, back then the fba takes care of the front.

I assure you fba is not difficult and after you view the dvd, you will understand what need to be done.

this is a major reason for her to learn to sew - I am sure it is hard for her to find things that fit.

ETA - welcome to your dgd -- please encourage her to post questions here, many of us habitually do fba
-- Edited on 4/24/09 5:53 PM --
-- Edited on 4/24/09 5:54 PM --

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to joann


Date: 4/24/09 8:01 PM

As a large busted woman, and the mother of a large busted dd, she is a 30D, get her measured at a good bra shop.
It makes all the difference in the world. The other thing is that it is very difficult to find a large cup size in a size 30, so I'd make sure to find a shop that alters.
In most things it is pretty easy to make an fba, but it is much easier to fit tops that have princess seams than darts. It is just smoother and easy to fine tune the fit.

------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

Mrs.Mack
Mrs.Mack
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Date: 4/27/09 2:11 PM

Hello everyone! I'm the granddaughter that wants to learn to sew.

About my bra size—I wear a 30J because that's all that is available. I've been professionally fitted regularly since I was 14 and I grew five cup sizes in a year, and have continued to grow (and be fitted each time) since.

I really need a 28 band (I wear the 30 on the tightest hook and it still rides up in the back) but they don't seem to come with a cup big enough. And when I bought the bras I have now a couple of years ago the cup was empty on the side. The problem now is my breasts have grown again so even though the side fills out nicely, I'm too full on top and get the dreaded double-boob effect. My breasts are very round and point forward, so I don't fill most US bras properly, since most US bras are shaped differently than me. They like to lift and separate. I am not that shape! Some European bras are more like my shape, but I have yet to find one with a small enough band and big enough cup.

Because of my extreme bust, clothes that fit are getting harder and harder to find, especially business wear. I can make do with a t-shirt because it stretches, but there are times when t-shirts are not appropriate.

Once I get comfortable with sewing clothes, I'll see about looking into making my own bras (I've found several online sources that teach how), but it's complicated enough that I know it's going to have to wait a while.

Until then, I'll have to see if I can find a professional custom bra maker. But I already pay $100 a pop for a bra off the rack. I'm not sure if I can afford custom bras... We'll see.

Someone above suggested getting patterns that fit in the bust and adjusting the rest, if I read the advice correctly. I'm willing to try that, but I'm not sure it will work. I've bought off-the-rack clothes that fit my bust and had my mother (who sews) take in the rest, but I'd run into the problem of the shoulder seam hitting my upper arms, the sleeves being too long, the arm hole being much too low so I can't raise my arms (once things are taken in), and the end result just doesn't look right.

Is there a way to avoid that?

Nancy K
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In reply to Mrs.Mack


Date: 4/27/09 2:20 PM

Trust me on this, it is much easier to adjust the fit of the bust than to make the rest smaller, and you'd have to make it a lot smaller if you have such a large bust. That is why any one with a cup size larger than a B cup needs to use the upper bust measurement to get the correct size. The other thing is to invest in a copy of Fit for Real People. Palmer Pletsch also recently came out with a dvd just on fitting the bust and the reviews here have been very positive.

------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

tr1c14
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tr1c14
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Member since 3/28/08
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In reply to Nancy K


Date: 4/27/09 2:37 PM

just to clarify - the upper bust measurement means right up under your armpits, not around the actual breasts.

The idea is you start with a pattern that fits through the neck and shoulders and would fit if you had much, much smaller breasts, and then you adjust only the front of the pattern so that there's more fabric only where there's more of you. So if, for example, your upper bust measurement is 30", you'd buy a pattern in a size that called for a 30" bust measurement, and likely find it fits well through the neck, back, arms, and shoulders, but not in front. Then you do a FBA to the pattern to add the necessary room through the bust. Does that make more sense?
-- Edited on 4/27/09 2:40 PM --

------
Tricia
----------------
The advantage of being a beginner is, nobody has told you "That can't be done." This is also the disadvantage of being a beginner.

KarenP
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KarenP  Friend of PR
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In reply to Mrs.Mack


Date: 4/27/09 2:39 PM

Quote: Mrs.Mack
Someone above suggested getting patterns that fit in the bust and adjusting the rest, if I read the advice correctly.

Actually, the recommendation was to choose a pattern based on the "high bust" measurement. This will give you a better fit through the shoulders, and then you adjust the bust area to make it larger.

The "high bust" measurement is taken by measuring above the bust and right under your armpits.

------
~Karen
http://thingsfromscratch.wordpress.com

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